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P38A 95 diesel. Where is the quantity servo on the FIP?

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by Jerseyp38, May 22, 2019.

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  1. Jerseyp38

    Jerseyp38 Active Member

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    Hi Guys,

    Started a new thread as was hoping someone might spot this whilst I pick up daughter from dance (not in the range rover....)

    I have just removed the fuel injection pump from the engine and gone to fit the 'new' one and noticed a wired part was missing from the bottom at the back of the 'new' pump. Is that the quantity servo? in which case I am a bit stuffed....... And will start tidying up whilst I find a part or a pump.......... Other wise is it ok to remove the part from the old pump and fix in to the new pump?

    Does that makes sense?

    Will attach a photo when I get back.

    Thanks.
     
  2. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    No it's the modulation solenoid. Quantity servo is inside pump.
     
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  3. Jerseyp38

    Jerseyp38 Active Member

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    Thank you Wammers, I will swap over the modulation solenoid and carry on. Thank you again. Kids will have to cook their own dinner..........
     
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  4. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Jedwood Spannerhands

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    Pretty sure my refurbed one came with everything attached and was a straight swap.
     
  5. Jerseyp38

    Jerseyp38 Active Member

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    Hi Grrrr,

    Afraid it is a secondhand pump from an engine that was running well until it seized, so hopefully OK. Even if it runs for a while to prove the problem. I have fitted it in this evening and timed it but after a couple of revolutions about 0.05mm out so will have another go tomorrow. When I checked the timing on the original one before removing it was show as 0.80mm instead of 0.90mm. Hopefully I am doing it ok!!!!!!
     
    RangeRoller dt and Grrrrrr like this.
  6. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Jedwood Spannerhands

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    I measured 3 times in a row to get the same result before I reassembled all the high pressure lines and whatever. I think there's a certain degree of slack and error when everything has done as many miles as our old buses.
     
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  7. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    That is why you time with the last movement towards the engine. It takes all the slack out.
     
  8. Jerseyp38

    Jerseyp38 Active Member

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    I did do the final movement towards engine but not by much so checked again today and moved it further away from the engine so there was more movement back to the engine and I think it was about 0.005mm out after two revolutions. So have done everything up. No success though as no fuel to the injectors at all. Plenty going to the pump and flows out of the return connection.

    Have I missed something basic or is the 'new' pump broken?

    Feeling rather deflated.
     
  9. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    Crack injectors just open and crank, it may take a while. It has to fill the injector pipes and you will only get start fuel which is not a waterfall. As you get fuel with no air nip them up. It may start doing this so be aware.
     
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  10. Jerseyp38

    Jerseyp38 Active Member

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    Thanks wammers while carry on trying.
     
  11. Jerseyp38

    Jerseyp38 Active Member

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    Have done about 6 lots of thirty seconds. Still no sign of fuel. Have put the battery charger on and will leave for a while. I did notice the engine/injector light went out and came back on and then staid on whilst cranking? Will have a tidy up.......
     
  12. Jerseyp38

    Jerseyp38 Active Member

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    I guess the engine/injector light is staying on because no4 injector is not making a signal because it has no fuel?
     
  13. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Jedwood Spannerhands

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    Sounds reasonable. You said return connection had fuel? So must be ****ing out the injector unions when slackened off?
     
  14. stemac33

    stemac33 Active Member

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    STOP solenoid working ok. Just a thought
     
  15. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Jedwood Spannerhands

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    That's what I thought until he said there was fuel returning to tank.
     
  16. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    Fuel always returns to tank, that has nothing to do with stop solenoid. Stop solenoid prevents fuel flow into delivery piston.
     
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  17. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Jedwood Spannerhands

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    Ah. I assumed it didn't go past the FIP.
     
  18. Jerseyp38

    Jerseyp38 Active Member

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    Hi,

    Thanks guys, well persistence with bleeding has paid of and she has started and run and been around the block! However, not perfect have the engine / injector light on permanently and when revved can go on revving a bit more after lifting foot from throttle......... It starts easily from hot, revs to 800/850 for a few seconds then settles back to 750 rpm.

    Whilst I had everything apart I fitted a new starter motor and a new number 4 injector which I got from fleebay for less than half price. But I was disappointed to see some damaged to the insulation on the cables. But I PVC taped them and fitted it............... My amateur mistake?

    On test drive not full of power. Guess had better go and get some diesel and see what she is like with the full reserve light off....

    Any additional useful thoughts. Thanks for the help!!!!
     
  19. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Jedwood Spannerhands

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    MAP connected? Got any diag? That should show if #4 is good or not. You didn't pinch the wires when tightening it up?
     
  20. Jerseyp38

    Jerseyp38 Active Member

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    hi Grrrrrr, no diagnostics unfortunately, but was very careful with the wires and have the old aluminium manifold so no MAP(I think) just an air temp sensor? Have been out for a second spin and better but lacks power. Thinking about it when bleeding it did start and I let it run whilst cracked each injector nut in turn then got in the car and revved slightly where it took off and rev to 3000rpm made a pop noise and stopped: I did not have the plastic intercooler pipe over the engine connected to the turbo...... Could something have gone pop in the turbo?

    I have now put all the ducting on! And as said starts and idles well.

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
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