90 Propshaft.... not right?

Hi.
I am new, this is my second post. A bit about me and my Land Rover 90 200tdi (disco):-
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/just-saying-hi.326304/#post-4187311

Anyway, as i say in my introducing myself post, i am learning very fast about looking after my 90. I've done a lot of research on here, manual and the land rover toolbox videos. Had some squeaking while driving, figured my front prop Ujs were done a couple of weeks ago and replaced them, squeaking problem solved. I marked up the flanges and the prop and made sure it went back on exactly as it came off.

Now i've been investigating a clunk in my gear changes. I had only previously checked the rear prop Ujs and not the prop splines. Having checked the splines with the handbrake off, i found them to be badly worn so ive ordered my replacement rear prop today. Looking at the knackered rear prop as it is, the slider is closer to the rear axle and from what i gather, this is the wrong war around. So this has given me doubts as to weather putting the front prop on exactly as it came off was the right thing to do. The slider is at the transfer box end as it should be, but the yolks are inline!

So now i don't trust the previous owners work.

So basically i am just after some reassurance that i need to pull the front prop back off and and re-position the yolks at 45 degrees to each other? I believe from watching the land rover toolbox videos that there should be arrows to align. I don't believe i saw any arrows. Is this only on defender props? Is the fact that the 200tdi in my 90 is from a disco a reason for the yolks being in line? I have attached photos of the prop before and after i had replaced the UJs.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
John

Or is this a rear prop shaft that has been put on the front? Though i think the rear is longer?.

I doubt it's from a disco - the disco has a different wheelbase (although no bodges are impossible) and the prop should not fit. As you say, the yokes should not line up.

It will not make any difference if they are aligned or 45 degrees out.
They will still be balanced.

Gmacz said:

It will not make any difference if they are aligned or 45 degrees out.
They will still be balanced.

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Thanks @Gmacz
So it will be balanced, i thought i read that the reason was to do with the range of play?

John Halliwell said:

Thanks @Gmacz
So it will be balanced, i thought i read that the reason was to do with the range of play?

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rear yokes should be in line, front not as axle flange and t/box flange are not parallel, which way round prop fits doesnt really matter but rear has slide near the t/box front usually near the diff, you dont need to mark prop and flange so you can refit the same as it makes no difference at all

Thanks @jamesmartin
Could this prop in the photos that was on the front, actually be a rear prop?
It was extremely hard to extend. I am wondering if i am best ordering a new front prop and fitting this to the rear in place of the one with the knackered splines.

I the props only went back together one way?

When I pulled mine apart and cleaned and greased the splines they would only go back together one way because they were keyed

I feel daft for only just noticing, but not as daft as the person who has done this should.... the front prop is on the rear! Which explains it. So i am right not to trust the work of the last owner.

What damage could have been caused by having the props on the wrong way round? it drives well. I am going to sort them today.

You are unlikely to have done any damage unless you have been off roading and taking the suspension to extream movement and then any damage would likely be to the prop itself. This would be to the one that was over long and would compress to the limit putting preassure on the uj's and trying to push the engine gear box out of place so the mounts will be worth a check. The under length one will have popped its dirt seal cap off exposing the splines to crud.
Some props I have seen are keyed others are not.

its length would govern were it should fit

John Halliwell said:

So i am right not to trust the work of the last owner.

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Never trust anything the previous owner has done!
It took me years to sort out all the old bodges on both my 110 and series 3. It was a similar story with the 110 a friend bought as well. I am sure it does not apply to all but it applies to enough to instill some healthy skepticism about other peoples work.

John Halliwell said:

The slider is at the transfer box end as it should be

Click to expand...

The joint should be facing down so that water cannot run down into them.

discomania said:

The joint should be facing down so that water cannot run down into them.

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Interesting, makes sense, but both of mine on both vehicles have always had it the other way around, with the male end at the transfer-box.

2 new props on now, the right way around and driving nice. As you said @tottot The old rear prop that had been on the front of the vehicle (too long for the distance between the trans box and diff) had knackered Ujs a few weeks ago. And the old front prop that had been over stretched at the rear had dirt and crap in the splines that had helped cause them to wear.

Good its sorted John.I keep a set of props spare so if a UJ goes its just a quick prop change and change joint at my leasure.I have them marked these day's,you can guess why.