L322 4.4 M62 water pump and thermostat mod

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Willos

Active Member
Posts
521
Location
Huntingdon Cambs
Well had the L322 a year now after 12 years of the P38 and loving it. It let me down in the summer when a solenoid in the gearbox gave up on the way to a trip to the coast, but thats all done.
Before i purchased it the car had loads of work done inc new head gaskets, centre gasket and timing chain.
I was a little annoyed at a little rattle that i could hear when stationary and came to the conclusion that the chain wasn't put in correctly or the vanos was going south. Having done a little research into taking a range rover apart at the front i thought id take a look at the pump. Yes it can do a twerk in the wrong direction and has stood since early March to get sorted. Ive ordered the pump from Island 4x4 (which is apparently an oem make) and thought whilst im at it ill do the 80 deg c mod on the thermostat as its far too hot under there when the suns out.
Any way just a few questions.
Ive ordered the mod from the Cheq man on Ebay 2 weeks ago but still not arrived. He said hes sent another one out with tracking and the tracking says at Heathrow DC on Friday but not shifted from there. How long did it take yours to arrive ?
secondly any tips on keeping those pipes in place at the back whilst taking out the pump
Now the weather is turning on the positive side i can get it done but im not going to do it without the thermostat mod at the same time
 
Are you sure your pump is the rattle as if you google M62Tu rattle there are thousands of threads. Does it rattle all the time or when warmed up, any start up rattle?

Mine has Beisan seals and new timing and cam chains but has started to rattle occasionally if I don’t drive it hard enough for a while.
It could be water pump as mine did go and made a horrible noise which is on YouTube under something like M62, is my engine dead and also a thread I started on here.

The two pipes on mine stayed in the manifold at the rear when I did just my pump but I removed all the bolts and eased the pump off while trying to hold the pipes in place but you could probably get them back in but it’s the O rings in the manifold that could potentially need changing. The pipes are pushed in the manifold about 20 mm from memory.
My stat took a couple of weeks I think to arrive.

Make sure you bleed your system thoroughly after with front raised up which helped mine and burping the pipes.
 
It's all done. It's not a difficult job but I will give you a few tips
If your changing your water pump then do the mod at the same time as it's a lot easier
Take the throttle body off. 4 10 mm bolts and it's off. Nothing connected to the other side of it This give you extra grip on those pesky pipes that go in the back of the pump as you don't want to dislodge them at the rear.
My pump was well knackered and noisy but didn't leak hardly any coolant. If you grab a blade of the fan at the top and rock from front to back it will show any play in the pump shaft. It was giving a noise of a slack chain so beware it's not as bad as you think or that mechanic rubbing his hands convincing you your looking at a £2000 chain rebuild
Stick the gasket on the pump before you start dismantling. It's a sod alighting the pump on the engine
Buy a 10mm racket spanner. The bottom bolt behind the front pulley is easy with this and takes no longer than the other bolts
Put the bottom hose on an fill coolant in the top of the rad with a short hose and funnel. Then put the top hose on the pump and alternator and fill the end with coolant upto the top and put on the pipe at the top of the rad. This ensures you have a rad full of coolant and a full block. You will still have to bleed but will ensure you don't have any big air locks
The engine runs smoother and quieter than before. So hopefully this should last the car out I changed the fan belt out and have kept the other Spare in the boot for emergency purposes. It dint need changing but these things are best done when it's apart. Check the other pulleys for play and noise
 
Thanks holiday chicken for your tips. The mod came that morning. It comes already assembled. Make sure you do a little cut out for the bleed on the new thermostat. You cannot put it on wrong as the holes only line up one way.
 
It's all done. It's not a difficult job but I will give you a few tips
If your changing your water pump then do the mod at the same time as it's a lot easier
Take the throttle body off. 4 10 mm bolts and it's off. Nothing connected to the other side of it This give you extra grip on those pesky pipes that go in the back of the pump as you don't want to dislodge them at the rear.
My pump was well knackered and noisy but didn't leak hardly any coolant. If you grab a blade of the fan at the top and rock from front to back it will show any play in the pump shaft. It was giving a noise of a slack chain so beware it's not as bad as you think or that mechanic rubbing his hands convincing you your looking at a £2000 chain rebuild
Stick the gasket on the pump before you start dismantling. It's a sod alighting the pump on the engine
Buy a 10mm racket spanner. The bottom bolt behind the front pulley is easy with this and takes no longer than the other bolts
Put the bottom hose on an fill coolant in the top of the rad with a short hose and funnel. Then put the top hose on the pump and alternator and fill the end with coolant upto the top and put on the pipe at the top of the rad. This ensures you have a rad full of coolant and a full block. You will still have to bleed but will ensure you don't have any big air locks
The engine runs smoother and quieter than before. So hopefully this should last the car out I changed the fan belt out and have kept the other Spare in the boot for emergency purposes. It dint need changing but these things are best done when it's apart. Check the other pulleys for play and noise
Buy a ratchet spanner,it does the same job but is a lot quieter. ;):D well done
 
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