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Classic 4.0 cuts out - Won’t idle

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by M4Rob1987, Jul 12, 2018 at 6:03 PM.

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  1. M4Rob1987

    M4Rob1987 Member

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    351E30F0-0A1F-4B1F-BDC5-5BAECA80B043.jpeg Hi all,

    Have finally taken delivery of my Range Rover hybrid.

    Took it out for a test drive today and somethings...not right. First off, it won’t idle and tick over. As soon as I take my foot off the accelerator, it does.

    I know the alternator is buggered and isn’t putting out any voltage, but the battery is in top condition.

    Would either of these two be related?

    There is a very slight hill to get out of our village and I had to put it in first to even get it up that. Feels very underpowered. Had to keep putting my foot down and slipping the clutch just to get it up the hill!!

    I’ve noticed that the fuel pump is always clicking too - should they always be making that noise? I thought that when the fuel pump was working fully, the clicking/pumping noise would stop? Am I wrong?

    I’ve attached a photo of the engine below for reference.

    Am completely new to v8’s so any advice on what to check would be hugely apprecited.



    Cheers all,

    Rob.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2018 at 6:09 PM
  2. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    The pump clicking I would say is normal as it looks like you have a Fillterking fuel filter pressure regulator on the bulk head, it will probably run fast when you first turn on ignition and slow down when the carbs are primed, great to tell if you run out of fuel as the pump goes into overdrive.
     
  3. M4Rob1987

    M4Rob1987 Member

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    Ok - it doesn’t appear to stop clicking/clunking at all...if I turn the key to the first position, it just keep clunking like a fast firing machine gun...indefinitely? Is it supposed to do that?
     
  4. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    What does the fuel pump look like, they should slow down to a slow click all the ones I have come across do, if its clicking fast there could be a leak or the floats in the carbs are not shutting of the fuel and it will be running very rich.
     
  5. M4Rob1987

    M4Rob1987 Member

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    Unsure what the fuel pump looks like - only just got the vehicle today so will pop the fuel pump tomorrow and have a look.

    I can’t see any fuel leaks anywhere, or any loose hoses etc. I had about 2 minutes of fine driving this evening then it started acting up again. I took the hose off of the fuel filter and turned ignition on - fuel just sort of dribbled out - should it be quite high pressure? Could it just be that there’s bugger all fuel in the tank...?
     
  6. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    Fuel to the filter regulator should pump out like a small garden hose sounds like it may well be low on fuel or a blockage to pump. the regulator is probably set to about 4psi.
     
  7. M4Rob1987

    M4Rob1987 Member

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    Ok - will top up tank tomorrow to see if it cures issue. And will check all lines for blockages etc.

    If the fuel pump is always pumping though, or at least trying to pump, where is all the fuel going...? I can’t believe that the float chamber in the carbs are THAT large?
     
  8. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    The needle valve in the carb stops the fuel when the bowl is full, but pump will still run should be slow tick.
     
  9. M4Rob1987

    M4Rob1987 Member

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    Ahhhh right yes that makes sense.

    Nope, can confirm that the pump just keeps pumping at the same speed (fast ticking) how ever long you wait.
     
  10. ukadamwest

    ukadamwest Well-Known Member

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    how about starting with the basics..

    how is the timing ? might be a pain to get a strobe on it and check the timing on your own if dies on idle. is it firing on 8 is there a spark to each plug ? pull all the plugs how do they look?
     
  11. M4Rob1987

    M4Rob1987 Member

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    I’d happily do the timing, but I’ve absolutely no idea how to do that. Haynes manual is on the way though so shouldn’t be too long before I work it out.

    Odd thing is, I test drive it only 3 days ago and it was absolutely fine. And managed to get it driving “normally” for about half a mile today after fiddling with the fuel hoses etc.

    Surely if timing was off, it’d never have run correctly, right?
     
  12. ukadamwest

    ukadamwest Well-Known Member

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    timing you need a strobe light. it will have a couple of clips one goes to batt + the other to batt - the third clips Cyl 1 HT lead. on the pully there will be some markings it will probabky, by the looks of it, need a bit of clean and brush off to see most likely ranging from -12 to 0 to +12 they are your timing marks. once you have the pully cleaned and can see the markings, get some tip-ex and mark where your timing should be IE if it should be a +6 TDC put a tip ex mark at +6 at the top of the pully there will be an arrow or pin, that your timing mark. read the engine data for your engine it will probably state the engine needs to be warm and timed at 'x' rpm. when its warm, have someone hold the throttle at x rpm and shine the strobe at the pin. if its timed correctly your tip ex mark should be flashing at the arrow pin. if its out of time the tip mark will be flashing before or after the pin.

    if it needs timing, using a 14mm spanner slacken the nut under the distributor that holds the clamp, not all the way just loosen it off. do this with the engine off for obvious reasons. now with the engine running at the designated RPM again using the strobe at the pin and tip ex mark, twist the whole distributor assemble very slightly maybe 1 or 2 mm and youll see the tip ex mark move forward or backward. when its where it should be turn off and clamp the distributor in place with the 14mm spanner it should be set. check it again just to make sure once you've clamped it up.

    and that's how you do the timing

    if the distributor clamp isn't tight and the distributor moves it will throw the timing out
     
  13. ukadamwest

    ukadamwest Well-Known Member

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    before you replace the alterntor, have a look at the back of it get the part number, you can get a replacement voltage regulator it will either slot in with two or three screws holding it in to the side of the plastic cover at the back or under the plastic cover. the brushes are probably shot
     
  14. M4Rob1987

    M4Rob1987 Member

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    Wow, thanks so much for the advice on the timing! Sounds horrendously easy to seriously bugger something up, but I’m sure in principle it’s quite a simple process.

    I’m taking the alternator to a local specialist tomorrow who’s going to test/have a look at it for me. If it is buggered, I’m not entirely sure what to replace it with as I’ve been given lots of different suggestions. It’s currently a LRA100 but have been told many different types to get!
     
  15. ukadamwest

    ukadamwest Well-Known Member

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    the only thing you can bugger up is the timing. but if you follow the process its not difficult to time again. it only gets to be a pain if you pull the distributor out and don't get the key back in the right way.. its a faff.

    if you have a volt meter just check the output of the alternator. when mine went it was £35 for new voltage reg and 20 mins to fit

    as a word of advice with what you have you ned to learn to 'how to' yourself or it will eat your face on garage bills.

    We're all very helpful here and happy to impart knowledge, wisdom, shortcuts and sometime even come over and lend a hand, being in rutland your're probably not far from someone who will lend a hand and drink your tea
     
  16. M4Rob1987

    M4Rob1987 Member

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    Yeah I’m more than happy to get stuck in and learn how the various bits and bobs work. I’ve worked on various cars/land rovers over the years, just not v8’s with carbs etc! Next job is a full carb strip down and rebuild. Looks fairly self explanatory and simple to carry out.

    I’ve already spent a fair few YouTube videos working how to test if my battery is good, and also how to test if the alternator is working using a multimeter etc. The voltage doesn’t change at all, so am assuming broken. Will find out in the morning!

    Then to dive into the fuel system and see what’s going on there with the fuel pump etc.
     
  17. ukadamwest

    ukadamwest Well-Known Member

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    I think if you do the carbs you need a flow gauge to balance them. ive not done the carbs yet.. i'm a long way off that. but I would be more inclined to send carbs off for an overhaul and balance

    what does the voltage read from the alternator? the voltage out shouldn't change the regulator regulates the voltage to give a constant, otherwise you would be getting more output the higher the engine speed which would damage the battery
     
  18. M4Rob1987

    M4Rob1987 Member

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    Well I tested the alternator by measuring the voltage increase across the battery, which I think is the right way? The battery was at 12.7 with ignition off, and pretty much identical with engine running. I was expecting a voltage of about 14 ish right?
     
  19. ukadamwest

    ukadamwest Well-Known Member

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    there or abouts. if your getting battery voltage only then yes the alternator isn't putting out sufficient charge.
     
  20. ukadamwest

    ukadamwest Well-Known Member

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    let me know how the carb refurb work out !
     
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