300tdi timing hell

Hello I’ve just joined the group . So I’m litrally at a wall with my timing I put pin in flywheel the fip was a bit tight not really bad went in old belt off stripped cleaned new parts on here’s where it all happened es to **** so the belt that came off dayco belt had a number 16 on it when I got the disco guy had a brit part kit basic one belt was dayco in that also had 16 on it so I thought **** it I’ll buy bearmach 4096k kit do all idler stud etc now the belt in that kit had.a 17 on it so anybway I struggled like **** to get the belt on I’d slackened off fid studs tried tried finally got it on tensioned belt turned over twice boom slack in the belt straight away cam pully out one tooth and here’s the bit that got me wen I put pin in fip the flywheel groove was no where to be seen the wood ruff was just off 12 o’clock so I moved crank slightly got the fly pin in then I couldn’t get pin in fip and the cam is still one tooth out so I slackend the the 3 studs got the big nut in middle socket on it moved it a fraction so pin go in nicely re timed it again (didn’t take belt off just slackened tensioner ) same again cam not lining up one tooth out I need help thank s is my first diy cam belt change I’m not far off but it’s just not right and I don’t no wtf to donor try in my head I need to get tdc fly pin in first but the fip pin don’t wanna go in its slightly out and I struggle like **** getting belt on again also could it be wrong belt cus it says 17 not 16 argggggggghhh help me please some one thanks guys

wow, one tooth is one tooth move the pulley one tooth

I think I got the drift?

Bit more thought before vomiting across the keyboard.

Start from scratch, line up the cam marker with the web, timing pins in the pump and in the flywheel, fit the belt to the cam first and then down to the crank under the static idler, run it back up to and over the pump pulley, so long as the belt is fitted tight from the cam down to the crank the slack is taken up by the tensioner and by adjusting the injection pump pulley on the bolts.

Did you follow the manual or any guides when you did it?

There are some great video's on the tube explaining it very well.

Sorry I’m not the best keyboard warrior yes I did it’s the belt I think litrally one tooth out but just past my knowledge of getting it all bang on as it’s my first time can u move the cam pully by hand if it’s one tooth out to make it line up ?????? Thank you

What I’m stuck in is if u get your flywheel pin in an injection pin in and your cams out wtf do u do ?

Benjaminallen92 said:

What I’m stuck in is if u get your flywheel pin in an injection pin in and your cams out wtf do u do ?

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turn cam pulley one tooth,its a clat but quite possible when belts slackened,the ket is making sure belt between cam and crank has no slack when fitting the belt

Can get my pins in out now easy this is where I’m at right now

I’ve marked belt and pully should I try move belt over one thanks guys I know I’m being blonde sorry

Moved belt one tooth still out one tooth on cam hmmmmmmmmmm any ideas what to try next

Belt off 4 times now still at this HELLLLLLP

I cant see the marks too well in your photos, but as i remember you take up the variation on the IP pulley.

So the crank is locked with the fly wheel pin
The cam is set using the mark
The IP pulley plate is loosened and then locked to mid postion wth the pin in place (when the old belt is off, but before the new belt goes on)

So then the belt goes on - crank is locked, cam is set, and the belt goes around the IP pulley. But then the pin probably wont slide straight in without loosening off the locking plate so as the pulley can move very slightly in relation to the pump. Once its in the right place, the pin should slide in fine - and this is without the cam or crank moving at all (you set them before to be spot on before the belt went on, and there has been no rotation of them since)

At this point, you take all the pins out, spin it over by hand a few times, then the crank pin goes back in and you check the IP pin again, and slacken / adjust the plate again if required.

Does that make sense to you? If so, can you say again what part you are having issues with?

julianf said:

I cant see the marks too well in your photos, but as i remember you take up the variation on the IP pulley.

So the crank is locked with the fly wheel pin
The cam is set using the mark
The IP pulley plate is loosened and then locked to mid postion wth the pin in place (when the old belt is off, but before the new belt goes on)

So then the belt goes on - crank is locked, cam is set, and the belt goes around the IP pulley. But then the pin probably wont slide straight in without loosening off the locking plate so as the pulley can move very slightly in relation to the pump. Once its in the right place, the pin should slide in fine - and this is without the cam or crank moving at all (you set them before to be spot on before the belt went on, and there has been no rotation of them since)

At this point, you take all the pins out, spin it over by hand a few times, then the crank pin goes back in and you check the IP pin again, and slacken / adjust the plate again if required.

Does that make sense to you? If so, can you say again what part you are having issues with?

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Hello thanks for your reply so basically if I’m at tdc fly wheel pin in then my cam is out one tooth maybe just less than I can obviously slide ip pin it so if I take belt off I’m still out on cam no matter what I messed with ip so I could get pin in to it basically it’s like I need to just move the cam I just don’t no what I can do to get the cam to line up it was to start with because used to smoke bad to be honest as it sits now I can get fly wheel pin in ip pin in but in out on cam so I’m just trying to figure out how the hell I move the cam so it meets its marker if you get what I mean thank you

julianf said:

I cant see the marks too well in your photos, but as i remember you take up the variation on the IP pulley.

So the crank is locked with the fly wheel pin
The cam is set using the mark
The IP pulley plate is loosened and then locked to mid postion wth the pin in place (when the old belt is off, but before the new belt goes on)

So then the belt goes on - crank is locked, cam is set, and the belt goes around the IP pulley. But then the pin probably wont slide straight in without loosening off the locking plate so as the pulley can move very slightly in relation to the pump. Once its in the right place, the pin should slide in fine - and this is without the cam or crank moving at all (you set them before to be spot on before the belt went on, and there has been no rotation of them since)

At this point, you take all the pins out, spin it over by hand a few times, then the crank pin goes back in and you check the IP pin again, and slacken / adjust the plate again if required.

Does that make sense to you? If so, can you say again what part you are having issues with?

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If I’m tdc flywheel in I’m out on cam

Benjaminallen92 said:

If I’m tdc flywheel in I’m out on cam

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why cant you move the cam a tooth in the belt whilst the other 2 pulleys are pegged ?

jamesmartin said:

why cant you move the cam a tooth in the belt whilst the other 2 pulleys are pegged ?

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I was gonna take belt off again and do what u said move the pully manualy so peg ip peg crank then turn cam by hand im just worried that it isnt right doing that or is it ok im just worried its gonna mess it upmor is it not ive never done it before in my head thats the only way i can do it i marked belt before and pully and moved a tooth back on belt then re tensioned all and it was slighty out again still a fraction more to be honest i just need to get that dam cam lined up to mark if i can deffo just take belt off and turn it by hand clockwise to line it up whilst its pinned still then put belt on etc after my two rotations should it then line up right

jamesmartin said:

why cant you move the cam a tooth in the belt whilst the other 2 pulleys are pegged ?

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That' what i dont understand either? Take the belt off, put the crank pin in, line up the cam, and put the belt back on?

Benjaminallen92 said:

I was gonna take belt off again and do what u said move the pully manualy so peg ip peg crank then turn cam by hand im just worried that it isnt right doing that or is it ok im just worried its gonna mess it upmor is it not ive never done it before in my head thats the only way i can do it i marked belt before and pully and moved a tooth back on belt then re tensioned all and it was slighty out again still a fraction more to be honest i just need to get that dam cam lined up to mark if i can deffo just take belt off and turn it by hand clockwise to line it up whilst its pinned still then put belt on etc after my two rotations should it then line up right

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as long as the 2 pins and cam align after it doesnt matter what you do but its not rocket science to slacken belt and move the cam a tooth

Benjaminallen92 said:

I was gonna take belt off again and do what u said move the pully manualy so peg ip peg crank then turn cam by hand im just worried that it isnt right doing that or is it ok im just worried its gonna mess it upmor is it not ive never done it before in my head thats the only way i can do it i marked belt before and pully and moved a tooth back on belt then re tensioned all and it was slighty out again still a fraction more to be honest i just need to get that dam cam lined up to mark if i can deffo just take belt off and turn it by hand clockwise to line it up whilst its pinned still then put belt on etc after my two rotations should it then line up right

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imagine the belt has just snapped and youve done the repairs - you dont know what it was like before, so you just lock the crank, set the cam, and... well, do as i said in my first post

it does not matter what it was like before. just set it from scratch.

just dont spin the cam or the crank round and round independently. adjust it a tooth or whatever either way, but dont go spinning it 360 degrees.