300tdi engine plus auto gearbox into 110 CSW (19j)

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slicer

Member
Posts
63
Location
Banbridge , N. Ireland
Hi folks,
Need a few pointers, I've got a donor Discovery and presently removing engine, gearbox and ancillaries. Don't have a lot of space and the Disco has to go for scrap soon, can anybody help with what I need to remove as I'd hate to lose vital parts.

Could do with some planning help as my heads wrecked! ☺️
 
All the power-steering components and pipes.
Rad, intercooler frame and pipes.
Air filter and all the pipes.
Fuel filter and housing.
Exhaust system and all the hangers and mountings.
Expansion tank.
Front prop. (You will need a 110, 300tdi rear prop.)
Gearbox crossmember, (If you are mounting the engine in the standard 300tdi position the transfer box needs to be 2 inches further forward and you will have to modify the seat box or use a 300tdi seat box.)
Save the plastic fuel tank if your steel 110 tank is on it's last legs.
 
All the power-steering components and pipes.
Rad, intercooler frame and pipes.
Air filter and all the pipes.
Fuel filter and housing.
Exhaust system and all the hangers and mountings.
Expansion tank.
Front prop. (You will need a 110, 300tdi rear prop.)
Gearbox crossmember, (If you are mounting the engine in the standard 300tdi position the transfer box needs to be 2 inches further forward and you will have to modify the seat box or use a 300tdi seat box.)
Save the plastic fuel tank if your steel 110 tank is on it's last legs.
My plan is to attach the gearbox and engine as one unit to existing transfer box. Anyone done this before or any links to threads on this would be greatly appreciated as I am drawing a blank!
Cheers
Keith
 
I would have a good look at a standard 300tdi and see if there would be an issue if the engine were 2" further back, particularly clearance issues around the steering box and timing cover.
I would have thought that you may want to retain the auto's transfer box as the one in yours will be 1.4:1 or even 1.6:1 which may result in it revving its nuts off unless you have tall tyres. It is quite easy to modify the Discovery transfer box to accept the Defender hand brake and speedo drive.
If you mount the transfer box in the existing (LT77) position you will have to shorten the exhaust front pipe by 2" and lengthen the intercooler pipes and top radiator hose by 2", the oil cooler pipes may also be too short.
You probably will not be able to retain the viscous fan.
Below is where a 300tdi sits when bolted to a LT77 gearbox, the standard 300tdi sits 6" further forward and is higher at the front. I suspect that where you want to put yours would be 4" further forward, right where the steering box is.
If you use the standard 300tdi position you know that everything will fit.
Is it a EDC engine or does it have a conventional pump? Last time I drove a 300tdi auto it was a slow numb beast.
P1080754a.jpg
 
The donor didn't come with a transfer box so I'm kinda stuck that way. It's an EDC engine but I'm getting a manual pump. No electrical gubbins going in.
Will measure up this week.
Getting engine mount made from drawings to allow for oil filter.
 
IMHO, you will NEED the disco transfer box - the gearing will be rather short without it. It has been done before on here, and I just searched and found this thread for you:-

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/300tdi-auto-conversion.299535/

In terms of removing the EDC - don't forget to change the injectors - AND if #4 still works, then it has high value - be very careful with it, and sell it !!! - it should pay for your kick down brackets - which are essential.....
 
Not sure that the auto box and the LT77 are the same length, the manual 300TDi used the R380, which is 2" shorter than the LT77. The military had to get a special bell-housing and input shaft to allow R380s to be used as replacements for the LT77. This is also why 300TDI props are different lengths and the seat box is different.
Sounds like you are going to get engine mounts made up to attach to your current chassis mounts, you could be making things hard work for yourself, 300TDi mounts are a lot easier.
Is your heart set on an auto-box? If you are replacing the fuel pump then things could be a lot easier if you retained the LT380.
I found the attached web-site very helpful when I did my conversion. http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/tdi300.htm I retained the LT77 manual box as it was ex-military and in good condition and used Steve Parker weld on engine mounts which are a bit expensive but save a whole lot of effort.
A lot of people will disagree with me, but I used to drive a pre-EDC 300TDi Discovery, which was the slowest numbest Land Rover I've ever driven, other than a 2.5 N/A diesel.
 
Disco1BFG
Fair enough, number 4 injector will be treated like gold-dust!! Set of injectors coming with the pump. Will look at the transfer box gearing ratio. Thanks for your advice, much appreciated.

Rougharse Racing
I'm pulling out the LT77 gearbox and 19J engine, replacing with 300tdi plus it's attached Autobox. I have no choice as I've a busted knee and can't clutch. I had a pre EDC Disco auto and it wasn't bad, mate!

Any more nuggets greatly appreciated!!!
 
IMHO, pre edc was not perfect, but perfectly adequate....( and yes, I had one :p) ...

EDC much better - not much more power, but more driveability, but terrible on fuel at high speed on the M-way..... problem now is the availability of parts - the puter is no problem - 1, they don't break, and 2 - scrap yards are full of em, and 3 - it can often be fixed. BUT, #4 injector has not been made by bosch for over 10 years... Now, you can have one made, but the quote I had was £1K!!!!!!

I drive a D1 auto, (auto for medical reasons too), De EDC'd by me, due #4 injector failing ( and thus instant MOT fail )...

I fitted a full width intercooler, and had the FIP tuned - it's now 145 HP, and goes VERY well... plus no electronic sh*t to be a nuisance. If you do tune yours, then make sure your fit an EGT gauge... cos at this power level you can melt the head :eek:

FWIC:-
FWIC2.jpg


I upgraded the Autobox cooler at the same time too - cheaper than new LR part from these guys

www.alutec.co.uk
 
T'was made by this guy:- ( FIP tuned by him too ;) )

http://jeremyjfearn.co.uk/

I'm not sure if he is still trading, but the website is still live, and full of useful info - they come up on flea bay every so often .... or Alutec will make you one :)
 
See why you want an auto, still think that fitting the engine in the normal 300TDi position will save you a whole world of grief. You can cut the mounts off the Discovery chassis and weld them onto the Defender chassis. The coil spring mounts are in the same position on both chassis so you can use them as reference points. If you use the Discovery gearbox crossmember it will put the transfer box in the correct position and the auto's front prop will fit.
 
Surely I don't have a choice on where the engine is fitted, auto box is attached to it, box marries up to transfer box then mounts welded in where the engine will sit? If that's a stupid way of putting it, then I'm sorry, I'm having brainfog!!
Just finished a 14 hr day, same til Friday.....
Gearbox cooler mounted at front?
 
Surely I don't have a choice on where the engine is fitted, auto box is attached to it, box marries up to transfer box then mounts welded in where the engine will sit? If that's a stupid way of putting it, then I'm sorry, I'm having brainfog!!
Just finished a 14 hr day, same til Friday.....
Gearbox cooler mounted at front?
with a 300tdi t/box sits a couple of inches further forward as it did with the v8s compared to 200tdi or prior, it means al the 300 stuff is then stock parts no modified exhausts or coolant hoses oil cooler pipes etc
 
Could always take the crossmember and transfer box off fit to the gearbox then put the engine in correct place and install the gearbox according to the engine position and not where your transfer box sits at the moment. Then as others said not modifying bits
Also a discovery transfer box that's better ratio won't cost you alot and be alot better to drive than a autobox on a defender transfer box
Depending what temp guage you're using and came with you'll probably need a new thermostat if you use td5 guages be green one not sure for rest don't forget to save the speedo drive gear if do swap your transfer box as disco one will read wrong
Also if you sit your engine further back you'll probably have to fit an electric fan as the viscous with no cowling won't really do much if it's far back
 
Gearbox cooler mounted at front?
Yep, FWIC first ( if you go for this ), then ATF cooler ( sits "upside down" - I.E. bosses at bottom ), then water radiator.

+1 on james martins comments too - keep it as standard as possible - the bits are usually cheaper ( but not always - hence me using larger coolers )

Would a piccie of my layout help ??
 
If you look at your Land Rover 90/110 chassis you will see that there are four through-chassis bolts on each side where the engine cross-member attaches to chassis (beneath the bell-housing) and three through chassis bolts on each side where the transfer box/gearbox mounts attach to the chassis.

If you look on the Discovery chassis you will find these exact same bolt holes are in exactly the same position in relation to the front axle, however the 300TDi Discovery does not have an engine cross-member, it has a smaller cross-member fitted further back that also includes the transfer box/gearbox mounts. The Discovery cross-member uses the same through chassis bolts as the 90/110, except the front two which are unused the Discovery cross-member will bolt directly into your Land Rover 90/110 chassis. Leave out the engine cross-member, you don't need it.

Once you have fitted the Discovery cross-member the transfer box will now sit 2" further forward than an early 90/110 wit a LT77, but exactly where it would be in a 300TDi Defender, this will result in the engine sitting in the factory 300TDi Defender position and all the standard pipes will fit. The front prop from the Discovery will fit because the transfer box will be in exactly the same position, in relation to the front axle, that it was in the Discovery, the rear prop will be too short.
You will also have to modify the front of the seat box on the drivers' side (RHD) to clear the transfer box, compare a 300TDi Defender seat box, or use one.

As I said before, I suspect that the 300TDi's timing case will foul the steering box if you leave the transfer box in the early 90/110, LT77 position.
 
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