300tdi de-cat pipe

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Flex

Flex

New Member
Posts
155
Will it pass an MOT if I fit one of these de-cat pipe jobbies?

I'm hoping it will give it a bit more oomph too?

The exhaust is sounding a bit louder around that area, could it be that it is a bit tatered?
 
as far as i know there is know cat test on diesels just a soot/smoke test

i run a 200bhp 1.9cdti astra van as well as the disco and that past its mot last week with EGR blanked off, pre cat and cat removed so just a back box. past flying with colours so cant see why a tractor engine wont :)

update us if you do install it i would like to fit 1 to mine but not sure if i want what looks like a fun job removing the exhaust bolts out of the manifold they look abit rusted up :(
 
De-cat pipe took me and a friend 20mins to do, day before i sprayed WD40 on the bolts ( a good helping ), and before i went to kip, next day bit more on just incase, went to shop about mile round trip, to heat up um up a bit undid the bolts, if i can remember hardest part was getting the old downpipe out and clear, also put a straight pipe instead of middle box, K&N air filter in her (dont go for a universal one unless you like the sound of a 10mm chain being dragged behind when the turbo spools up), EGR removed, She is now LOUD! but miles more responsive & quicker @ setting off, test due in a month so i could comment on the MOT side. Definently more oomph now tho!
 
Mine's passed it's MOT easily without cat downpipe or centre silencer or egr system ... emissions are actually lower than with the original exhaust system!
 
Flex said:
Will it pass an MOT if I fit one of these de-cat pipe jobbies?

I'm hoping it will give it a bit more oomph too?

The exhaust is sounding a bit louder around that area, could it be that it is a bit tatered?
Click to expand...


Just a little tip for you to make the job a bit easier:

Jack up the chassis at the front end to increase the clearance between the engine and the front axle, makes a world of difference.
 
Ive had three different 300s go through MOT no problem with EGR blanks or full divert straight pipe.Only one so far have I done the de-cat and even with the engine jacked right up with its mounts loosened getting the front pipe with no flexi bit in was hell on earth.At the time metal prices were up and selling the cat more than payed for the job.Im glad I kept the old flexi bit as if I do it again I shall MIG that part into the replacement.

Where,I am told,you might encounter problems is with insurance if you claim on a total loss and havent declared the changes.Saying that,my ES that got total lossed by a self styled LR expert insurance assesor (total aresehole more like) and he didnt spot or mention the de-EGR pipe.Some people who are concerned about this leave the original pipework and just insert the plate to the joint,and add to the air turbulance.

This however has left me with a quandry....some say that air turbulance at input is good for engine effecienciency.....but if so,whats all the smoothboring,crossflow,stage II stiff about,where you make the air path as good as possible?Im sure that I'll get shot down for this but I seem to have developed a cistern type memory with age - new info pushes the resident material out the overflow.....
 
shocker said:
Ive had three different 300s go through MOT no problem with EGR blanks or full divert straight pipe.Only one so far have I done the de-cat and even with the engine jacked right up with its mounts loosened getting the front pipe with no flexi bit in was hell on earth.At the time metal prices were up and selling the cat more than payed for the job.Im glad I kept the old flexi bit as if I do it again I shall MIG that part into the replacement.

Where,I am told,you might encounter problems is with insurance if you claim on a total loss and havent declared the changes.Saying that,my ES that got total lossed by a self styled LR expert insurance assesor (total aresehole more like) and he didnt spot or mention the de-EGR pipe.Some people who are concerned about this leave the original pipework and just insert the plate to the joint,and add to the air turbulance.

This however has left me with a quandry....some say that air turbulance at input is good for engine effecienciency.....but if so,whats all the smoothboring,crossflow,stage II stiff about,where you make the air path as good as possible?Im sure that I'll get shot down for this but I seem to have developed a cistern type memory with age - new info pushes the resident material out the overflow.....
Click to expand...


You don't jack the engine up, you jack the chassis up to create more working room between the engine and the front axle.
 
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