300tdi crank seal fitting

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ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90

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As the title, could could you guys help me regarding the 300tdi rear crank seal fitting please. I may be over thinking it, but I really don't want to bu**er it up and have to take engine out again.

1. Do I put the seal guide on the crank, or do I leave it in the seal (it's lose in the sealed packet anyway)

2. Should I use slave bolts to guide it in place on the crank?

3. I've got a genuine land rover gasket too, should I use RTV silicon as a precaution either side of gasket? Or can I do so.

Any other tips or advise welcomed. Sorry if these seem daft obvious questions.
 
You're talking about the one on the front of the engine?

When I did one, I used the old seal and either one or two sprockets as spacers, so I could tighten up the crank but, and the whole lot pushed the seal in square.

People have issues with the job. Before doing it, I spoke with a friendly independent who only works on landrovers - they didn't have the special tool either - they just said to make sure its properly square, which is why I stacked up objects to make my 'pusher'

The inner lip has some sort of grease on it out of the packet. I think I sprayed some wd40 type stuff into the recess before going for it.

Wasn't as hard as I was expecting, but then I did not bother with the can seal, as that wasn't leaking, and I didn't want to push my luck!
 
You're talking about the one on the front of the engine?

When I did one, I used the old seal and either one or two sprockets as spacers, so I could tighten up the crank but, and the whole lot pushed the seal in square.

People have issues with the job. Before doing it, I spoke with a friendly independent who only works on landrovers - they didn't have the special tool either - they just said to make sure its properly square, which is why I stacked up objects to make my 'pusher'

The inner lip has some sort of grease on it out of the packet. I think I sprayed some wd40 type stuff into the recess before going for it.

Wasn't as hard as I was expecting, but then I did not bother with the can seal, as that wasn't leaking, and I didn't want to push my luck!

Thanks mate. I meant the rear crank seal behind the flywheel.

That's exactly how I did the front one though :D
 
Clean everything immaculately and I put sealant on the gasket. Plastic guide should be clean with any bits of swarf cleaned off and in the seal(it's directional if I remember). You can slowly push the seal over the crank by hand close enough to get the proper bolts through and located.
Have you got the sump on?
 
Clean everything immaculately and I put sealant on the gasket. Plastic guide should be clean with any bits of swarf cleaned off and in the seal(it's directional if I remember). You can slowly push the seal over the crank by hand close enough to get the proper bolts through and located.
Have you got the sump on?

Thanks Marmaduke. I get you,that's great.

The sump is on, engine on a hoist so plenty of access though.

Would you put the seal guide on the crank first or leave it integrated in the new seal?

I
 
I think the thing to do is take your time with a "wet", I.E. well lubricated seal. I'd use grease or engine oil. I wouldn't use WD40*. I'd also get it all as clean as possible.

IME, its a job where "Do it nice, or do it twice" applies.

If its your first time ( ooh err ), then get it all nearly together, and go and have a brew - come back 10 mins later with "fresh" eyes... and check it all !!:)

-----

*WD40.... Mmm - its got its place, but IMHO there are better products out there.
 
I think the thing to do is take your time with a "wet", I.E. well lubricated seal. I'd use grease or engine oil. I wouldn't use WD40*. I'd also get it all as clean as possible.

IME, its a job where "Do it nice, or do it twice" applies.

If its your first time ( ooh err ), then get it all nearly together, and go and have a brew - come back 10 mins later with "fresh" eyes... and check it all !!:)

-----

*WD40.... Mmm - its got its place, but IMHO there are better products out there.
I think the rear seal needs to be fitted dry (no oil on the seal lips or on the crank)
 
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