300tdi brake & power upgrade?

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icelandic

New Member
Posts
31
Location
Sevenoaks Kent
Hi All
I have a 96 'N' 300tdi & want to know an easy way to get some more performance & stopping power.Can i adjust the wastegate actuator on the turbo & if so how do i do it & how easy is it to fit a boost gauge.Also it has solid discs up front & i'd like to upgrade to vented if possible.Can i fit vented from a td5 & just space the calipers out or do i need replacement callipers as well?

Many thanks in advance
 
best option is drilled and grooved as callipers and some other stuff will need replaceing if it can be done but i would go drilled and grooved discs but pads will wear quicker dependant on your driving
 
leave ya boost where it is @1bar

200's need a lil more

turn up ya fueling and get a bigger better IC and sports airfilter

EGR removal, de cat pipe etc then it all gets expensive

i guess your's isn't a late 300 witht he ecu and flyby wire throttle???
 
Not sure about the drilled disks if you go off road, wouldn't they just get filled full of crap and then that'd be pointless?
 
Hi All
It's not got an EGR valve or cat but i'don't know what boost it's running so it may well be running less than 1bar.Haynes manual say anywhere from 0.8-1bar.It has a cable throttle.Don't want the hassle & expense of fitting a bigger intercooler,just a tweak on the actuator should be effective enough.
Brakes smell & pedal gets soft on some downhill decents when not driving hard or using them excessively & thats without towing( i will be towing 1.5 tons).Pads & discs are hardly worn so thought it would be better to upgrade to vented....Thanks for your replies so far....
 
if your brakes are smelling and you are getting brake fade,maybe one of your calipers is sticking on slightly,prob be good idea to change the brake fluid aswell..
 
Also, just get each corner up and feel for bearing play.

If the bearing's are loose then the wheel wobbles which forces the pads back into the caliper and the first pump basically pushes your pads back to where they should be then the second pump does the main braking.

I've just been trough this and was thinking the problem was brakes, so bled them all, then thought it might be the flexi hose on the brakes collapsing on the inside. Wheel bearings went in both the rear hubs within a week, fixed them and my brakes are chipper again.
 
what difference dose it make if its the late 300 with an ecu, mines a 1995 and its got a cable to it but its covered in sensors wot my 200 wasnt what are they for?
 
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