300tdi 4th head gasket in 18,000miles

M

[email protected]

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #1

Hi

Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
gone again.

1st head gasket failed and head was skimmed. Nothing needed to come
off it was ok. New bolts fitted all ok

2nd head gasket and new bolts fitted after another 5,000 miles

3rd Same as above

Then during a service the mechanic from the amn for landrovers
(different mechanic to my normal one) found the water pump was failing
and it was replaced. (3 months ago)

4th time, again gasket blown

It always does it the same way. Thew temp guage will shoot upo into
the red, if you stop and idle it will cool down again. It never looses
any water and the exhaust remains clean. The engine has done approx
96,000 and is in a 110 that used to have a td in it and now has the
300 tdi engine in it. This was professionally fitted by a specialist
in Peterborough area prior to getting it.

If you turn on the heater the air blows cold. The thermostat has been
replaced as well, buit no improvement.

It is very strange. The temperature will take off, and then if you
idle it will drop back down again, also if you sit at idle for hours
it wont overheat and then suddenly the temp will start to rise.

We spent the last hour with the AA, who have now agreed it is broken
but why the head gasket keeps blowing is a mystery, however they did
check the exhaust emissions and they were okay, ie no water. As we sat
there the temperature was fine until we drover it up and down the road
for a mile or so and then when we got back if you reved the engine the
temp would rise above the normal running temp for this engine, and if
we let it idle it would drop back.

There are no visible leaks of water, and it doesn't loose any.

Help! Any ideas where to start?

Many thanks

Matt

 

J

johnty

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #2

Are all the coolant hoses ok?

Do they feel firm when you squeeze them?

Are they routed without any 'near' kinks ?

Sometimes if the hoses are perished inside the force of the waterpump
sucking the water out from the bottom of the radiator (particularly when its
revved) can collapse the hose , therefore blocking the flow of water.

Just an idea

Johnty


<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi
>
> Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
> mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
> gone again.
>
> 1st head gasket failed and head was skimmed. Nothing needed to come
> off it was ok. New bolts fitted all ok
>
> 2nd head gasket and new bolts fitted after another 5,000 miles
>
> 3rd Same as above
>
> Then during a service the mechanic from the amn for landrovers
> (different mechanic to my normal one) found the water pump was failing
> and it was replaced. (3 months ago)
>
> 4th time, again gasket blown
>
> It always does it the same way. Thew temp guage will shoot upo into
> the red, if you stop and idle it will cool down again. It never looses
> any water and the exhaust remains clean. The engine has done approx
> 96,000 and is in a 110 that used to have a td in it and now has the
> 300 tdi engine in it. This was professionally fitted by a specialist
> in Peterborough area prior to getting it.
>
> If you turn on the heater the air blows cold. The thermostat has been
> replaced as well, buit no improvement.
>
> It is very strange. The temperature will take off, and then if you
> idle it will drop back down again, also if you sit at idle for hours
> it wont overheat and then suddenly the temp will start to rise.
>
> We spent the last hour with the AA, who have now agreed it is broken
> but why the head gasket keeps blowing is a mystery, however they did
> check the exhaust emissions and they were okay, ie no water. As we sat
> there the temperature was fine until we drover it up and down the road
> for a mile or so and then when we got back if you reved the engine the
> temp would rise above the normal running temp for this engine, and if
> we let it idle it would drop back.
>
> There are no visible leaks of water, and it doesn't loose any.
>
> Help! Any ideas where to start?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Matt

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #3

On or around Sat, 14 Aug 2004 11:47:37 +0100, [email protected]
enlightened us thusly:

>Hi
>
>Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
>mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
>gone again.

hohum...

is the cooling system layout correct, and the levels?

is the rad correct for the engine?


turning to the head itself... has it had a new/replacement head, or is this
all on the same head?

I've heard the following from the bloke at ACR that if you once cook a 300
TDi head it's never the same again, something to do with the fact that the
head is heat-treated and once cooked the metallurgy is altered.

also, has the head been pressure-tested?


ACR supply reconditioned heads, but were not too enthusiastic about
exchanging a 300 which had been cooked. We ended up with a new one with new
valves and springs already fitted, which was IIRC 391 plus vat. the recon
head would have been 261 or somesuch. They have a website...

>

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Satisfying: Satisfy your inner child by eating ten tubes of Smarties
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

 

D

Derry Argue

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #4

[email protected] wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> It never looses
> any water and the exhaust remains clean.

Check for air bubbles in the coolant when you rev up. Not sure
if you can do that in a 300Tdi but it was always a dead giveaway
in my old Peugeot 504's when the head gasket had gone. That, and
temperature rise, was often the only indication that all was not
well. I suppose they did tighten the bolts in the correct
sequence and to the correct torques?? I'm told the aluminium
can also become "porous" after a roasting -- though I am not
sure I understand how.

Derry

 

M

[email protected]

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #5

Hi

The top hose goes hard when the engine is reved but is soft when at
idle.

Couldn't spot any obvious kinks.

Matt

On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 12:42:50 +0100, "johnty" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Are all the coolant hoses ok?
>
>Do they feel firm when you squeeze them?
>
>Are they routed without any 'near' kinks ?
>
>Sometimes if the hoses are perished inside the force of the waterpump
>sucking the water out from the bottom of the radiator (particularly when its
>revved) can collapse the hose , therefore blocking the flow of water.
>
>Just an idea
>
>Johnty
>
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hi
>>
>> Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
>> mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
>> gone again.
>>
>> 1st head gasket failed and head was skimmed. Nothing needed to come
>> off it was ok. New bolts fitted all ok
>>
>> 2nd head gasket and new bolts fitted after another 5,000 miles
>>
>> 3rd Same as above
>>
>> Then during a service the mechanic from the amn for landrovers
>> (different mechanic to my normal one) found the water pump was failing
>> and it was replaced. (3 months ago)
>>
>> 4th time, again gasket blown
>>
>> It always does it the same way. Thew temp guage will shoot upo into
>> the red, if you stop and idle it will cool down again. It never looses
>> any water and the exhaust remains clean. The engine has done approx
>> 96,000 and is in a 110 that used to have a td in it and now has the
>> 300 tdi engine in it. This was professionally fitted by a specialist
>> in Peterborough area prior to getting it.
>>
>> If you turn on the heater the air blows cold. The thermostat has been
>> replaced as well, buit no improvement.
>>
>> It is very strange. The temperature will take off, and then if you
>> idle it will drop back down again, also if you sit at idle for hours
>> it wont overheat and then suddenly the temp will start to rise.
>>
>> We spent the last hour with the AA, who have now agreed it is broken
>> but why the head gasket keeps blowing is a mystery, however they did
>> check the exhaust emissions and they were okay, ie no water. As we sat
>> there the temperature was fine until we drover it up and down the road
>> for a mile or so and then when we got back if you reved the engine the
>> temp would rise above the normal running temp for this engine, and if
>> we let it idle it would drop back.
>>
>> There are no visible leaks of water, and it doesn't loose any.
>>
>> Help! Any ideas where to start?
>>
>> Many thanks
>>
>> Matt
>

 

A

AN6530

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #6

>Subject: 300tdi 4th head gasket in 18,000miles
>From: [email protected]
>Date: 14/08/2004 11:47 GMT

>Hi
>
>Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
>mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
>gone again.<snip>

Try a different mechanic or better still DIY and know you've done the job
properly.



Steve. Suffolk.
remove 'knujon' to e-mail

 

G

Gordoni

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #7

Hello

If possible find a same model year 300Tdi, and compare the hose layout for
the whole cooling system, and see if it is configured correctly.
Just possible it was wrongly assembled at some earlier date.
Gordon.

"AN6530" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >Subject: 300tdi 4th head gasket in 18,000miles
> >From: [email protected]
> >Date: 14/08/2004 11:47 GMT
>
> >Hi
> >
> >Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
> >mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
> >gone again.<snip>
>
> Try a different mechanic or better still DIY and know you've done the job
> properly.
>
>
>
> Steve. Suffolk.
> remove 'knujon' to e-mail
>

 

M

[email protected]

Guest

• Aug 16, 2004

• #8

On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 13:13:55 +0100, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:
Hi

Thanks for the reply.


>On or around Sat, 14 Aug 2004 11:47:37 +0100, [email protected]
>enlightened us thusly:
>
>>Hi
>>
>>Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
>>mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
>>gone again.
>
>hohum...
>
>is the cooling system layout correct, and the levels?

The water in the expansion tank doesn't move, it remains about 1cm
below line in the bottle. If we put any more in it will drop over
about 1,000 miles and then stabilise again.

>
>is the rad correct for the engine?

Ergh...honestly don't know. We were told the coversion from a 110TD to
a 110 with a 300tdi enginer was done professionally by the previous
owner and we have checked into this. So hope so!
>
>
>turning to the head itself... has it had a new/replacement head, or is this
>all on the same head?

Same head but was skimmed by the mechanic 1st time we had the head
replaced. From what I have been told it was fine and didn't really
need to be skimmed
>
>I've heard the following from the bloke at ACR that if you once cook a 300
>TDi head it's never the same again, something to do with the fact that the
>head is heat-treated and once cooked the metallurgy is altered.
>
>also, has the head been pressure-tested?

No, being done this week!
>
>
>ACR supply reconditioned heads, but were not too enthusiastic about
>exchanging a 300 which had been cooked. We ended up with a new one with new
>valves and springs already fitted, which was IIRC 391 plus vat. the recon
>head would have been 261 or somesuch. They have a website...

Thanks.

The whole thing just seems so strange. The fact it runs fine for
6000miles or so and then suddenly failes again. The fact that at idle
it is fine but when reved it isn't. AND when it gets hot the heater
blows cold and the expansion tank is cold to the touch. Also you can
open it and there is water in it! (The termostat has been changed)

ARGH!
>
>>

 

J

Jon

Guest

• Aug 16, 2004

• #9

If the engine is hot the heater should be hot... Why would the heater
blow cold??? When filling up the wet side has all the air been
removed, i.e. no air locks. My 200 tdi heater pipes are roasting when
the engine is hot.

Just wondering if you have an air lock in the block?

when your engine is hot, how hot are the pipe to the heater? If
theres water in them they should be hot, air in them = warm.

Jon



On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 11:47:37 +0100, [email protected] wrote:

>Hi
>
>Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
>mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
>gone again.
>
>1st head gasket failed and head was skimmed. Nothing needed to come
>off it was ok. New bolts fitted all ok
>
>2nd head gasket and new bolts fitted after another 5,000 miles
>
>3rd Same as above
>
>Then during a service the mechanic from the amn for landrovers
>(different mechanic to my normal one) found the water pump was failing
>and it was replaced. (3 months ago)
>
>4th time, again gasket blown
>
>It always does it the same way. Thew temp guage will shoot upo into
>the red, if you stop and idle it will cool down again. It never looses
>any water and the exhaust remains clean. The engine has done approx
>96,000 and is in a 110 that used to have a td in it and now has the
>300 tdi engine in it. This was professionally fitted by a specialist
>in Peterborough area prior to getting it.
>
>If you turn on the heater the air blows cold. The thermostat has been
>replaced as well, buit no improvement.
>
>It is very strange. The temperature will take off, and then if you
>idle it will drop back down again, also if you sit at idle for hours
>it wont overheat and then suddenly the temp will start to rise.
>
>We spent the last hour with the AA, who have now agreed it is broken
>but why the head gasket keeps blowing is a mystery, however they did
>check the exhaust emissions and they were okay, ie no water. As we sat
>there the temperature was fine until we drover it up and down the road
>for a mile or so and then when we got back if you reved the engine the
>temp would rise above the normal running temp for this engine, and if
>we let it idle it would drop back.
>
>There are no visible leaks of water, and it doesn't loose any.
>
>Help! Any ideas where to start?
>
>Many thanks
>
>Matt

 

M

[email protected]

Guest

• Aug 16, 2004

• #10

Well we gave up and got the AA in to recover the local Landrover
Specialist who is thankfully only a short way down the A22 from us.

They have managed to do us a favour and fitted it in and so far they
have found :

a blocked radiatior (only gets warm in a small corner)

iffy looking thermostat....was replaced by a mechanic only 12,000
miles ago but never looked to see how it was fitted....bolts with a
whole load of washers sounds dodgy!

And of course the head gasket.

Don't ask how much that is costing, and even after this we still don't
know if that will be the end of the prob or not.

Many thanks to everyone who has emailed and replied to this thread.

Matt


On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 11:47:37 +0100, [email protected] wrote:

>Hi
>
>Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
>mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
>gone again.
>
>1st head gasket failed and head was skimmed. Nothing needed to come
>off it was ok. New bolts fitted all ok
>
>2nd head gasket and new bolts fitted after another 5,000 miles
>
>3rd Same as above
>
>Then during a service the mechanic from the amn for landrovers
>(different mechanic to my normal one) found the water pump was failing
>and it was replaced. (3 months ago)
>
>4th time, again gasket blown
>
>It always does it the same way. Thew temp guage will shoot upo into
>the red, if you stop and idle it will cool down again. It never looses
>any water and the exhaust remains clean. The engine has done approx
>96,000 and is in a 110 that used to have a td in it and now has the
>300 tdi engine in it. This was professionally fitted by a specialist
>in Peterborough area prior to getting it.
>
>If you turn on the heater the air blows cold. The thermostat has been
>replaced as well, buit no improvement.
>
>It is very strange. The temperature will take off, and then if you
>idle it will drop back down again, also if you sit at idle for hours
>it wont overheat and then suddenly the temp will start to rise.
>
>We spent the last hour with the AA, who have now agreed it is broken
>but why the head gasket keeps blowing is a mystery, however they did
>check the exhaust emissions and they were okay, ie no water. As we sat
>there the temperature was fine until we drover it up and down the road
>for a mile or so and then when we got back if you reved the engine the
>temp would rise above the normal running temp for this engine, and if
>we let it idle it would drop back.
>
>There are no visible leaks of water, and it doesn't loose any.
>
>Help! Any ideas where to start?
>
>Many thanks
>
>Matt

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Aug 17, 2004

• #11

On or around Mon, 16 Aug 2004 16:48:44 +0100, [email protected]
enlightened us thusly:

>Well we gave up and got the AA in to recover the local Landrover
>Specialist who is thankfully only a short way down the A22 from us.
>
>They have managed to do us a favour and fitted it in and so far they
>have found :
>
>a blocked radiatior (only gets warm in a small corner)

that's probably yer culprit.

>iffy looking thermostat....was replaced by a mechanic only 12,000
>miles ago but never looked to see how it was fitted....bolts with a
>whole load of washers sounds dodgy!
>
>And of course the head gasket.

I would seriously consider replacing the head with a new one if it's been
well cooked; they're not that much more than getting the old one
pressure-tested and machined and maybe the valves recut (cos of the
clearance thing) and presumably, the new one is a) right and b) guaranteed.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Ask yourself whether you are happy, and you cease to be so."
John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873)

 

G

Gordoni

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #12

Hello

If possible find a same model year 300Tdi, and compare the hose layout for
the whole cooling system, and see if it is configured correctly.
Just possible it was wrongly assembled at some earlier date.
Gordon.

"AN6530" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >Subject: 300tdi 4th head gasket in 18,000miles
> >From: [email protected]
> >Date: 14/08/2004 11:47 GMT
>
> >Hi
> >
> >Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
> >mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
> >gone again.<snip>
>
> Try a different mechanic or better still DIY and know you've done the job
> properly.
>
>
>
> Steve. Suffolk.
> remove 'knujon' to e-mail
>

 

M

[email protected]

Guest

• Aug 16, 2004

• #13

On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 13:13:55 +0100, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:
Hi

Thanks for the reply.


>On or around Sat, 14 Aug 2004 11:47:37 +0100, [email protected]
>enlightened us thusly:
>
>>Hi
>>
>>Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
>>mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
>>gone again.
>
>hohum...
>
>is the cooling system layout correct, and the levels?

The water in the expansion tank doesn't move, it remains about 1cm
below line in the bottle. If we put any more in it will drop over
about 1,000 miles and then stabilise again.

>
>is the rad correct for the engine?

Ergh...honestly don't know. We were told the coversion from a 110TD to
a 110 with a 300tdi enginer was done professionally by the previous
owner and we have checked into this. So hope so!
>
>
>turning to the head itself... has it had a new/replacement head, or is this
>all on the same head?

Same head but was skimmed by the mechanic 1st time we had the head
replaced. From what I have been told it was fine and didn't really
need to be skimmed
>
>I've heard the following from the bloke at ACR that if you once cook a 300
>TDi head it's never the same again, something to do with the fact that the
>head is heat-treated and once cooked the metallurgy is altered.
>
>also, has the head been pressure-tested?

No, being done this week!
>
>
>ACR supply reconditioned heads, but were not too enthusiastic about
>exchanging a 300 which had been cooked. We ended up with a new one with new
>valves and springs already fitted, which was IIRC 391 plus vat. the recon
>head would have been 261 or somesuch. They have a website...

Thanks.

The whole thing just seems so strange. The fact it runs fine for
6000miles or so and then suddenly failes again. The fact that at idle
it is fine but when reved it isn't. AND when it gets hot the heater
blows cold and the expansion tank is cold to the touch. Also you can
open it and there is water in it! (The termostat has been changed)

ARGH!
>
>>

 

M

[email protected]

Guest

• Aug 16, 2004

• #14

Well we gave up and got the AA in to recover the local Landrover
Specialist who is thankfully only a short way down the A22 from us.

They have managed to do us a favour and fitted it in and so far they
have found :

a blocked radiatior (only gets warm in a small corner)

iffy looking thermostat....was replaced by a mechanic only 12,000
miles ago but never looked to see how it was fitted....bolts with a
whole load of washers sounds dodgy!

And of course the head gasket.

Don't ask how much that is costing, and even after this we still don't
know if that will be the end of the prob or not.

Many thanks to everyone who has emailed and replied to this thread.

Matt


On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 11:47:37 +0100, [email protected] wrote:

>Hi
>
>Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
>mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
>gone again.
>
>1st head gasket failed and head was skimmed. Nothing needed to come
>off it was ok. New bolts fitted all ok
>
>2nd head gasket and new bolts fitted after another 5,000 miles
>
>3rd Same as above
>
>Then during a service the mechanic from the amn for landrovers
>(different mechanic to my normal one) found the water pump was failing
>and it was replaced. (3 months ago)
>
>4th time, again gasket blown
>
>It always does it the same way. Thew temp guage will shoot upo into
>the red, if you stop and idle it will cool down again. It never looses
>any water and the exhaust remains clean. The engine has done approx
>96,000 and is in a 110 that used to have a td in it and now has the
>300 tdi engine in it. This was professionally fitted by a specialist
>in Peterborough area prior to getting it.
>
>If you turn on the heater the air blows cold. The thermostat has been
>replaced as well, buit no improvement.
>
>It is very strange. The temperature will take off, and then if you
>idle it will drop back down again, also if you sit at idle for hours
>it wont overheat and then suddenly the temp will start to rise.
>
>We spent the last hour with the AA, who have now agreed it is broken
>but why the head gasket keeps blowing is a mystery, however they did
>check the exhaust emissions and they were okay, ie no water. As we sat
>there the temperature was fine until we drover it up and down the road
>for a mile or so and then when we got back if you reved the engine the
>temp would rise above the normal running temp for this engine, and if
>we let it idle it would drop back.
>
>There are no visible leaks of water, and it doesn't loose any.
>
>Help! Any ideas where to start?
>
>Many thanks
>
>Matt

 

J

johnty

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #15

Are all the coolant hoses ok?

Do they feel firm when you squeeze them?

Are they routed without any 'near' kinks ?

Sometimes if the hoses are perished inside the force of the waterpump
sucking the water out from the bottom of the radiator (particularly when its
revved) can collapse the hose , therefore blocking the flow of water.

Just an idea

Johnty


<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi
>
> Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
> mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
> gone again.
>
> 1st head gasket failed and head was skimmed. Nothing needed to come
> off it was ok. New bolts fitted all ok
>
> 2nd head gasket and new bolts fitted after another 5,000 miles
>
> 3rd Same as above
>
> Then during a service the mechanic from the amn for landrovers
> (different mechanic to my normal one) found the water pump was failing
> and it was replaced. (3 months ago)
>
> 4th time, again gasket blown
>
> It always does it the same way. Thew temp guage will shoot upo into
> the red, if you stop and idle it will cool down again. It never looses
> any water and the exhaust remains clean. The engine has done approx
> 96,000 and is in a 110 that used to have a td in it and now has the
> 300 tdi engine in it. This was professionally fitted by a specialist
> in Peterborough area prior to getting it.
>
> If you turn on the heater the air blows cold. The thermostat has been
> replaced as well, buit no improvement.
>
> It is very strange. The temperature will take off, and then if you
> idle it will drop back down again, also if you sit at idle for hours
> it wont overheat and then suddenly the temp will start to rise.
>
> We spent the last hour with the AA, who have now agreed it is broken
> but why the head gasket keeps blowing is a mystery, however they did
> check the exhaust emissions and they were okay, ie no water. As we sat
> there the temperature was fine until we drover it up and down the road
> for a mile or so and then when we got back if you reved the engine the
> temp would rise above the normal running temp for this engine, and if
> we let it idle it would drop back.
>
> There are no visible leaks of water, and it doesn't loose any.
>
> Help! Any ideas where to start?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Matt

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #16

On or around Sat, 14 Aug 2004 11:47:37 +0100, [email protected]
enlightened us thusly:

>Hi
>
>Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
>mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
>gone again.

hohum...

is the cooling system layout correct, and the levels?

is the rad correct for the engine?


turning to the head itself... has it had a new/replacement head, or is this
all on the same head?

I've heard the following from the bloke at ACR that if you once cook a 300
TDi head it's never the same again, something to do with the fact that the
head is heat-treated and once cooked the metallurgy is altered.

also, has the head been pressure-tested?


ACR supply reconditioned heads, but were not too enthusiastic about
exchanging a 300 which had been cooked. We ended up with a new one with new
valves and springs already fitted, which was IIRC 391 plus vat. the recon
head would have been 261 or somesuch. They have a website...

>

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Satisfying: Satisfy your inner child by eating ten tubes of Smarties
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

 

D

Derry Argue

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #17

[email protected] wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> It never looses
> any water and the exhaust remains clean.

Check for air bubbles in the coolant when you rev up. Not sure
if you can do that in a 300Tdi but it was always a dead giveaway
in my old Peugeot 504's when the head gasket had gone. That, and
temperature rise, was often the only indication that all was not
well. I suppose they did tighten the bolts in the correct
sequence and to the correct torques?? I'm told the aluminium
can also become "porous" after a roasting -- though I am not
sure I understand how.

Derry

 

M

[email protected]

Guest

• Aug 14, 2004

• #18

Hi

The top hose goes hard when the engine is reved but is soft when at
idle.

Couldn't spot any obvious kinks.

Matt

On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 12:42:50 +0100, "johnty" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Are all the coolant hoses ok?
>
>Do they feel firm when you squeeze them?
>
>Are they routed without any 'near' kinks ?
>
>Sometimes if the hoses are perished inside the force of the waterpump
>sucking the water out from the bottom of the radiator (particularly when its
>revved) can collapse the hose , therefore blocking the flow of water.
>
>Just an idea
>
>Johnty
>
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hi
>>
>> Has anyone got any ideas? The AA man is stumped and my regular
>> mechanic has replcaed the head gasket 3 times so far and it has just
>> gone again.
>>
>> 1st head gasket failed and head was skimmed. Nothing needed to come
>> off it was ok. New bolts fitted all ok
>>
>> 2nd head gasket and new bolts fitted after another 5,000 miles
>>
>> 3rd Same as above
>>
>> Then during a service the mechanic from the amn for landrovers
>> (different mechanic to my normal one) found the water pump was failing
>> and it was replaced. (3 months ago)
>>
>> 4th time, again gasket blown
>>
>> It always does it the same way. Thew temp guage will shoot upo into
>> the red, if you stop and idle it will cool down again. It never looses
>> any water and the exhaust remains clean. The engine has done approx
>> 96,000 and is in a 110 that used to have a td in it and now has the
>> 300 tdi engine in it. This was professionally fitted by a specialist
>> in Peterborough area prior to getting it.
>>
>> If you turn on the heater the air blows cold. The thermostat has been
>> replaced as well, buit no improvement.
>>
>> It is very strange. The temperature will take off, and then if you
>> idle it will drop back down again, also if you sit at idle for hours
>> it wont overheat and then suddenly the temp will start to rise.
>>
>> We spent the last hour with the AA, who have now agreed it is broken
>> but why the head gasket keeps blowing is a mystery, however they did
>> check the exhaust emissions and they were okay, ie no water. As we sat
>> there the temperature was fine until we drover it up and down the road
>> for a mile or so and then when we got back if you reved the engine the
>> temp would rise above the normal running temp for this engine, and if
>> we let it idle it would drop back.
>>
>> There are no visible leaks of water, and it doesn't loose any.
>>
>> Help! Any ideas where to start?
>>
>> Many thanks
>>
>> Matt
>