2a clutch...help please

Plan to replace the clutch whilst I have the gearbox out.
This would be the first clutch that I have had a go on thought so any tips and advice would be really handy.

Preferably don’t want to bugger it up, need to get it done properly once!

There is a very helpful video on YouTube, a chap called Steamwally on a series 3 clutch replacement but I’m unsure of the difference of the clutch on 2a and 3 models.

First thing to do is to have a really good critical look at the flywheel. If you can see any cracking or blue bits then you might need to replace - certainly have it skimmed.

If you are unsure I'm sure the internet arm chair mechanics will appreciate a picture!

Then 'ave a look in the green book - get yourself a clutch centering tool (Draper used to do a cheap and functional universal version - I've got one that has gotten me out of a pickle once in a while)

Make sure you fit the clutch plate the right way round usually have flywheel side marked.
Check the clutch cover plate also if very old it may need renewing as well.
Buy decent make replacement parts AP brand have a good reputation.

On the 2a you have a really nice release mechanism, I think you can change the oil seal while you have the clutch out. Do the slave cylinder - its a pig to get to when everything is in. If the flywheel is scored or cracked then get it skimmed, line up somewhere first in case so you know who can do it quickly. You'll need locking tabs if the flywheel comes off and get some help, they are really heavy. Are you changing the plate and cover? If so I would go for the 9 1/2 rather than the 9.

And the slave cylinders can be a bugger to bleed, loads of info on here if you get difficulties though.

dandd said:

Plan to replace the clutch whilst I have the gearbox out.
This would be the first clutch that I have had a go on thought so any tips and advice would be really handy.

Preferably don’t want to bugger it up, need to get it done properly once!

There is a very helpful video on YouTube, a chap called Steamwally on a series 3 clutch replacement but I’m unsure of the difference of the clutch on 2a and 3 models.

Click to expand...

Hey Mate,
It's basically the same procedure, Steamwally has the advantage of an engine crane and he is an expeienced engineer, you can also do a clutch change without taking the gearbox out by moving it backwards out of the way .. but it's a real fiddle and you will only have 5inches or so space to work with.
Like the gus have said checking the flywheel is a good idea and in my experience the better that you can get the new plate centred up the easier it will be to marry the gearbox back, if you dont have access to a centring tool you can use a long socket and extension bar.
Good luck

Simon

Cheers for the advice gents

I to have an engine Crain so I’ll be doing it all out of the vehicle on an engine stand. All the gear no idea kind of set up!
Will probably get hold of a cantering tool, did read though years ago that a broom handle is ideal?

In terms of the bigger 9 1/2 instead of the 9 inch I didn’t even no that was an option? What benefits do I get with the bigger? More friction plate/ surface area?

Cheers. Spacker questions, please bare with

Taken it all out of the Landy because I need to do fair bit of welding to the chassis and bulkhead, and wanted everything out of the way

dandd said:

Cheers for the advice gents

I to have an engine Crain so I’ll be doing it all out of the vehicle on an engine stand. All the gear no idea kind of set up!
Will probably get hold of a cantering tool, did read though years ago that a broom handle is ideal?

In terms of the bigger 9 1/2 instead of the 9 inch I didn’t even no that was an option? What benefits do I get with the bigger? More friction plate/ surface area?

Cheers. Spacker questions, please bare with

Click to expand...

to swap clutches youd need to swap fly wheels, 9 has 2 dowels ,9.5 3 dowels

Unless the flywheel has been drilled for both options right?