200tdi Timing Belt Kit
- Thread starter meego
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flat
Well-Known Member
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pins well worth it, i did one with a mate and i couldnt believe how much easier the pins make it. If i was doing it again i would use the pins, or buy my own
Flossie
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- 10,612
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- Shropshire
I used dayco stuff, no problems but I have had britpart tensioner issues.
Don't really need a timing kit, 9.5mm drill bit for the pump and drill a wadeing plug for the flywheel .
I'm tight though..
I have just done mine (200tdi) after the belt snapped.
I ordered all the parts separately from paddocks, this is the list of part numbers I used:
ERR388 - water pump gasket
ERR1195 - timing cover gasket
ETC8560G - idler
ERR2530G - tensioner
ETC8550 - timing belt
ERR6490G - front crank seal
ETC4154G - timing cover crank seal
(if you have a defender 200tdi you will not need the idler, that was disco only)
I used OEM idler and tensioner and seals, both the idler and the tensioner were Britpart packaged OEM. The belt I used was Dayco which is also OEM.
The first time I did mine I bought a timing kit which included all the timing pins and a crank damper puller (link). This is well worth it for the price, more for the puller than the pins.
I also bought the crank locking tool (link) as I did not fancy the wedged bar and start the engine method!
I was given by my old work an old torque wrench that is enormous and goes up to 1000Nm was used for HGV wheel nuts). I use this to torque the crank bolt on refitting, but it is possible to rent large torque wenches to get the 333-350Nm torque required.
I ordered all the parts separately from paddocks, this is the list of part numbers I used:
ERR388 - water pump gasket
ERR1195 - timing cover gasket
ETC8560G - idler
ERR2530G - tensioner
ETC8550 - timing belt
ERR6490G - front crank seal
ETC4154G - timing cover crank seal
(if you have a defender 200tdi you will not need the idler, that was disco only)
I used OEM idler and tensioner and seals, both the idler and the tensioner were Britpart packaged OEM. The belt I used was Dayco which is also OEM.
The first time I did mine I bought a timing kit which included all the timing pins and a crank damper puller (link). This is well worth it for the price, more for the puller than the pins.
I also bought the crank locking tool (link) as I did not fancy the wedged bar and start the engine method!
I was given by my old work an old torque wrench that is enormous and goes up to 1000Nm was used for HGV wheel nuts). I use this to torque the crank bolt on refitting, but it is possible to rent large torque wenches to get the 333-350Nm torque required.
The flywheel pin is the one that I rarely use, look through the hole with torch and use a screw driver for fine adjustments.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 10,612
- Location
- Shropshire
I find the crank moves whilst Im getting the belt on and my home made lock tool stops that.
These locking tools/pins/crank locking tools were quite expensive at one time, not so much now.
The only tool I haven't got is the one to hold the pump pulley in place so the fip can be removed without stripping the lot down.
Tell me about it, the first time I did mine it cost me more to buy the parts and the tools than it would have done to get the garage to do it. The prices now are almost free by comparison.
However even at the expensive costs they more than covered themselves the second time I did it. I have just done the fourth on mine and have done several others with friends..
That's great info @dag0 Thanks
