200tdi stalling issue

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Anaconda

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,716
Location
Thames Valley
Son took his 200tdi out yesterday for a couple of hours and it drove as per normal. Today on the way to work it drove fine but when coming of the throttle it seems like it would momentarily stall then pick up idle again. Other times it will be fine and sometimes it will just cut out and not idle at all. Starts fine, switches off fine, drives fine, just doesn't like to idle especially after coming off the throttle.
I have put a new connector on the stop solenoid wire, bypass the vehicle wiring for stop solenoid, no difference.
Lift pump isn't leaking and gives a good squirt of fuel when operated by hand.
That's as far as I have got, what else should I look at ?
 
How much slack in the throttle cable?
Could the idle screw moved?
Crap diesel,when was the last fill up?
Crap in filter(could be water related as cold mornings causing dew in tank)
 
Not sure when he last filled up, it hasn't been started for a few weeks. Think there is a spare filter in the garage, might fit that tomorrow if I get chance.
Throttle cable is fine, don't think the idle stop has moved, besides sometimes it will idle just fine, mostly not though.
Thought my luck was in with the solenoid connector as it looked a bit dodgy. When it stops it's quite sudden as if it's turned off, other times it runs lumpy as if fuel restriction, sometimes it fine, annoying.
 
Could still be lift pump issues, or the pump is drawing air from somewhere?
 
Out of interest could it being a timing/cambelt issue in any way?
It had a new belt fitted a couple of months ago at a specialist the person who did it did a crap job and we made them redo it. I made sure a different tech did the job, who I had more faith in, the other tech served his last day.
Anyway should I get a timing pin set and read how to check it?
 
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I would think if the belts out it would not run?
Extra smoke & not rev 1 tooth out.
As it’s intermittent could you get a 12v to the solinoid to rule that normal cable out?

Does yours have a starter relay ?(behind fuse board)
 
Hicap phill said:
I would think if the belts out it would not run?
Extra smoke & not rev 1 tooth out.
As it’s intermittent could you get a 12v to the solinoid to rule that normal cable out?

Does yours have a starter relay ?(behind fuse board)
Click to expand...
I would need to check but I presume so, what are you thinking in regards to the starter relay?
Would that cause a poor idle though?
 
Anaconda said:
I would need to check but I presume so, what are you thinking in regards to the starter relay?
Would that cause a poor idle though?
Click to expand...
Mine was a V8 loom and has a relay,if I remove it fuel solinoid does not work. If you have 1 and it’s slightly faulty it may stop start the solenoid.

And I do not have a mechanical lift pump. Mines electric. Even if this is not turned on some how it still pulls fuel through & runs sweet.
 
Hicap phill said:
Mine was a V8 loom and has a relay,if I remove it fuel solinoid does not work. If you have 1 and it’s slightly faulty it may stop start the solenoid.

And I do not have a mechanical lift pump. Mines electric. Even if this is not turned on some how it still pulls fuel through & runs sweet.
Click to expand...
Could a failing stop solenoid fail in the way I describe or does it just fail in no start or no stop position ?
 
@lynall been ages since Iv played with the pumps…. Is the stop solenoid a plunge or lift to stop?
If it’s removed can you either lift/press down for the motor/pump to run?
Thanks
 
If you remove the solenoid plunger the engine should just keep running and you will have to stall it to stop.
Should your engine now keep ticking over then test again with plunger back in, still quits then either the solenoid is a bit dicky or its power supply is dicky.
As said in post above a feed wire direct from batt to solenoid would if engine runs fine eliminate faulty solenoid.
 
tottot said:
If you remove the solenoid plunger the engine should just keep running and you will have to stall it to stop.
Should your engine now keep ticking over then test again with plunger back in, still quits then either the solenoid is a bit dicky or its power supply is dicky.
As said in post above a feed wire direct from batt to solenoid would if engine runs fine eliminate faulty solenoid.
Click to expand...
Ok I shall put that on my list of things to look at.
I have already tried with a jumper wire and the issue is the same so that rules out the wiring but not the solenoid itself. If I am going to take the solenoid out I might aswell get my son to buy a new one as they are not expensive, saves faffing around.
 

In the video it's not us switching it off, it's just taking our foot of the pedal and it cutting out by itself
I haven't got very far with it yet, although I did change the leak off pipes and filter as we had some.
It starts well and tick over is very smooth BUT haven't had the chance to drive it yet. I don't think that will have fixed it.
 
Ok, had time to do a little work on it.
After changing the filter my son took it out and the symptoms are worse, no power now, he had to drive back in low range.
I haven't checked the timing before so please point out if I have got anything wrong. I aligned the slot in the flywheel, after noting there is actually two slots (is that important). I used the slot which is just under 5mm. Took the cover off to insert the 9mm timing pin, won't go in. Tried with 8mm drill, won't go in. 7mm drill will go in.
There is no excess smoke and starts well and initial tickover is smooth, until you drive it.
Correct me if I am wrong but is this a cambelt fitting fault, it's done 100 miles since the belt was done. As I previously stated I was not convinced about the capability of the garage who carried out the work.
Thanks for the help so far.
EDIT: Should I have checked the the TDC marks on the crank pulley?
 
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It is quite an easy job to adjust the timing so long as they sert the new belt up with the bolts in the middle of the cambelt pulley slots, otherwise it is a strip down job.
It sounds rather quiet for a 200tdi, so maybe the timing is in the retarded position?

I
 
lynall said:
It is quite an easy job to adjust the timing so long as they sert the new belt up with the bolts in the middle of the cambelt pulley slots, otherwise it is a strip down job.
It sounds rather quiet for a 200tdi, so maybe the timing is in the retarded position?

I
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply.
What concerns me is that something must have moved as it was running really well until this past week.
Belt tensioner bolt loose?
Do you mean the pulley slots on the end of the injection pump?
 
Anaconda said:
Thanks for the reply.
What concerns me is that something must have moved as it was running really well until this past week.
Belt tensioner bolt loose?
Do you mean the pulley slots on the end of the injection pump?
Click to expand...
It could be total coincidence and actually be another fault, ie fuel tank cap breather blocked, air leak into the fuel lines incl the lift pump, any rubber fuel hoses fitted?

Was there much fuel in the filter when you checked it?

Yes pulley slots on the injection pump pulley, these can be accessed from under that round cover on the front of the timing chest held on with three screws/bolts.
The proper timing kit is about 20 quid from ebay etc.

This is the kit, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/31563271...1GgEDC+75KBVVCLXCmzQCCYSA=|tkp:Bk9SR9jT6fDQZA

This will do the job for a 1/3rd of the price, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/26482861...uOIYJU1GgO21sNn6PCPYGak3zp|tkp:Bk9SR9jT6fDQZA
 
The fuel filter was full to the brim and the lift pump was new this year and it pumps well.
It has a rubber pipe from tank to lift pump which is about 5 years old.
There is no vacuum in the fuel tank.
I have the complete timing kit as in your first link.
It may be a coincidence but I'm not
so sure.
If I rev it up by hand, keep it there for a bit, then let go it will stall completely or stumble badly for a minute or so then the tick over resets itself, still undriveable though.
I am a bit loathed to do anything with the timing as it would be a get out clause for the garage.
Could the symptoms be compatible to a timing belt issue of some sort?
 
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