Disco 1 200TDI Slow to start, almost stalls when returning to idle, power loss

Hi, I thought i'd start a thread to document a problem i'm having with my Disco.
It's a 200TDI that i've recently purchased. And instantly I noticed it doesn't go anywhere near as well as my old 200, as well as the following problems:

The Disco is slow to start. I mean it cranks over OK - maybe a touch slower than my old one did. But it cranks for a good while before catching. Once it starts it splutters a bit before settling into idle.

Once it's running, occasionally it'll stutter on idle. Every now and then when driving it, when you return to idle it almost stalls itself, before returning to a normal idle eventually - or with a big kick of the throttle to get some fuel going again.

Sometimes when accelerating, i'll change gear from around 3k RPM, re-apply the throttle to where I would usually need to, to continue accelerating. But the car will instead need more throttle to continue accelerating!


I predict i've got a fuel supply issue somewhere. I threw some diesel injector cleaner through the tank, and also turned up the main fuel screw. Both of these issues have helped a little for now, but of course neither would solve the issue.
I've got an air and fuel filter and a few bits coming in the post tomorrow, and i've checked my boost hoses are in-tact and tight. I also have chucked an extra earth cable between the block and the battery.

Any ideas?

Air in fuel, start at the back and look at the sender steel pipes under the boot floor, then underneath and see fi its still got the sedimentor over the rear axle driver side, then its onto lift pump etc etc.

I have had a similar issue for the 6 years that I have owned my 300. It turns over for about 10 - 15 seconds (seems like longer) before it catches. It does seem like fuel running back, its only when cold, once started and warmed up I don't get the same symptom again, doesn't matter how many times it gets started for the rest of the day. I have replaced the sender (OEM), done away with the sedimenter, run a one piece fuel line front to back. New Delphi lift pump (twice, just in case) and installed a one way valve in the fuel line and changed the leak off pipes. Nothing has made the slightest bit of difference. It always starts, and runs great when it does but very frustrating. Hope you find out what your problem is, if you do pass it on.

Give it a full service, replace ALL filters, air, oil, fuel etc, and replace all lubricants. I'd then check what @lynall said, then I'd replace the spill pipes, check the timing and check all earths and connections (I mean take apart and clean) from battery to starter motor, to engine, to chassis. Then check the air inlet and all air pipes, especially the Turbo/intercooler pipes and that the intercooler isn't full of oily sh1te ...

Thanks for your advise. I suppose it seems like the logical move to make on buying a Landy that is 30 years old with numerous amounts of previous owners. Albeit passing its MOT just last Feb gone with only a slight advisory on the oil. I will do as much as I can not being a mechanic and hopefully learn as I go.Thanks again.

Update from me: We had a breakdown on the M40 last night. Tanking down the M40 at a nice 65mph for about 45 mins and all of a sudden i'm flat to the floor and we're still decelerating. Manage to downshift into 3rd on-boost (it stalled if i dipped the clutch), the car just about chugged its way into the next services. Checked my fuel filter, it looked OK. Managed to crack my fuel sedimenter drain plug.... YUCK!

She was still slow to start this morning, but she ran all the way home without issue. Maybe better than it ever has. I'm going to drain the tank ASAP as well as replacing all my filters.

Best bet is to bin the sedimenter and run a new pipe from the tank to the engine bay, any joins always end up causing issues.

Fizzer said:

I have had a similar issue for the 6 years that I have owned my 300. It turns over for about 10 - 15 seconds (seems like longer) before it catches. It does seem like fuel running back, its only when cold, once started and warmed up I don't get the same symptom again, doesn't matter how many times it gets started for the rest of the day. I have replaced the sender (OEM), done away with the sedimenter, run a one piece fuel line front to back. New Delphi lift pump (twice, just in case) and installed a one way valve in the fuel line and changed the leak off pipes. Nothing has made the slightest bit of difference. It always starts, and runs great when it does but very frustrating. Hope you find out what your problem is, if you do pass it on.

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Could be an air leak on the injection pump throttle shaft, which allows the gallery in the inj pump to drain back to the tank through the fuel return system.
To verify, fill the tank to the brim, park your vehicle nose down, rear up overnight, if it starts next cold start straight off, then the o ring seal on the throttle shaft has been leaking, sucking air, and needs replacing. You will see no fuel leaking out anywhere on the pump,it is simply an air ingress problem.

andrew_baran said:

Managed to crack my fuel sedimenter drain plug.... YUCK!

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Aye - should be part of regular servicing to clear all the sh*t out of it....

lynall said:

Best bet is to bin the sedimenter and run a new pipe from the tank to the engine bay, any joins always end up causing issues.

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I wouldn't do this - all that sh*t that was in the sedimenter would have been dragged higher up the sytem - it is there for a reason - and does its job well.

Disco1BFG said:

Aye - should be part of regular servicing to clear all the sh*t out of it....



I wouldn't do this - all that sh*t that was in the sedimenter would have been dragged higher up the sytem - it is there for a reason - and does its job well.

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Tis true but lets not forget 1, its amazing the drain came undone and 2, its most likely 20 odd yrs of crud thats never been drained ever, the defender 90 models dont have them, not sure on the 110 models? and you have to agree a defender is more likely to see crap fuel than any disco.
The alloy head also rots out and very few people even know they exist tucked up there.

lynall said:

Tis true but lets not forget 1, its amazing the drain came undone and 2, its most likely 20 odd yrs of crud thats never been drained ever, the defender 90 models dont have them, not sure on the 110 models? and you have to agree a defender is more likely to see crap fuel than any disco.
The alloy head also rots out and very few people even know they exist tucked up there.

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I'm not disagreeing with anything you say above... and, yep, fenders don't have em.... but disco's is betterer ..... ........ .....

Worth draining the thing every six months or so - its basic maintenance IMHO - just like greasing UJ's - and plenty of folk don't do that either !

They certainly rot out too - good that they are only about £30 new off the usual suspects - mine has a stainless bolt in the drain hole - after the plastic fantastic POS snapped orf

Disco1BFG said:

I'm not disagreeing with anything you say above... and, yep, fenders don't have em.... but disco's is betterer ..... ........ .....

Worth draining the thing every six months or so - its basic maintenance IMHO - just like greasing UJ's - and plenty of folk don't do that either !

They certainly rot out too - good that they are only about £30 new off the usual suspects - mine has a stainless bolt in the drain hole - after the plastic fantastic POS snapped orf

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I had fuel issues one time with my boat so fitted one with a glass bowl to save having to drain it out, fascinating to watch the filter seperating the water from the fuel, got it from this guy, https://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk

lynall said:

glass bowl to save having to drain it out

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All me tractors have 'em - deffo the way to do it
( shame they wouldn't last long on a road vehicle tho )

The glass is actually against the law on boats as its not fire proof! Luckily on the tidal waterways there is basically no laws at all, I dont know exactly what the glass is but it seems pyrex type to me, the thing was called an aggloremeter (spelling?) or some thing like that.

Putting a length of clear fuel line in to narrow down where the air is creeping in can help. As can checking the connections to the fuel tank, they have been known to rot out.

lynall said:

The glass is actually against the law on boats as its not fire proof! Luckily on the tidal waterways there is basically no laws at all, I dont know exactly what the glass is but it seems pyrex type to me, the thing was called an aggloremeter (spelling?) or some thing like that.

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That's the one - spelling is - Agglomerator ; and usually referred to as an agglomerator bowl for obvious reasons...

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/agglomerator

+1 on them being pyrex too - wait till you break one - you'll know for sure then

On an old motor, there's all sorts of **** and a lot of water in the fuel tank and sedimentor. Keep the sedimentor, but take it off and give it a proper clean. Replace the rubber seal before you put it back on.
Completely drain your fuel tank to get rid of the water. Fit a new fuel filter and prime the system with a bulb type hand primer. (it'll take forever to prime using the lift pump!)
Replace leak off pipes.
If it still plays up, have someone look at your injection pump.

Well this would more than likely be the cause of my problem then! Fell apart in my hands. Got a new Britpart one on Saturday, and the bloody earth fell off! They do like to make it hard to like them, don't they!!

Replacing the whole fuel lines now - Saturday tried to find any kind of 8mm hose - rubber or reinforced PVC, no luck! Motorfactors, B&Q, pond specialists, nowhere!! Any suggestions? Going to ring Pirtek first thing tomorrow morning.

Dragonwalker said:

Putting a length of clear fuel line in to narrow down where the air is creeping in can help. As can checking the connections to the fuel tank, they have been known to rot out.

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andrew_baran said:

Well this would more than likely be the cause of my problem then! Fell apart in my hands. Got a new Britpart one on Saturday, and the bloody earth fell off! They do like to make it hard to like them, don't they!!

Replacing the whole fuel lines now - Saturday tried to find any kind of 8mm hose - rubber or reinforced PVC, no luck! Motorfactors, B&Q, pond specialists, nowhere!! Any suggestions? Going to ring Pirtek first thing tomorrow morning.

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Yup, made of cheese, til you need to remove them, the good thing is the fuel will lube the threads, so hopefully they'll come off cleanly!

Update: Hopefully fixed!
The fuel sender has been replaced, i removed the old fuel lines, bypassing the sedimenter until I buy a replacement.
I replaced all the fuel lines with 8mm braided PVC hose, I didn't want to deal with the barbs, olives and fittings. It seems to be fine with some decent quality hose clamps.

The starting issue is still a little slow and i think I may need to replace the lift pump to completely cure it, but warm she starts on the button now. Next up, TDI tuning!

Thanks for the advice all.