200tdi PAS

Bump · Jan 30, 2011

On my 200tdi conversion i had gone with the option of removing the inards of the PAS pump and running it in idle.

This seemed great and lasted a good long day out.

I then was travelling over to Wales for a weekend green laning on Friday night and less than 10 miles from my destination my heating went really cold, so, i stopped at the next available location to find that the pas pump pully had disapeared along with the fan belt...

Fortuanatly i didn't do any major damage.

Anyway. After a tow to my sisters who lives vaugely close, i realised the main drive pully has two pully bits on it... one perfectly in line with the alternator and one in line with the water pump. So after a bit of experimenting i found that:

a 1100mm belt will do the drive to the alternator
a 850mm belt will do the drive to water pump - though i think one size down may fit even better. But the shop shut i was using on Sat morning.

I also found a belt which goes round all three but without moving the alternator to be in align i doubt it would last that long.

jamesmartin · Jan 30, 2011

did you put any oil or cv grease in pump

blue beasty · Jan 31, 2011

take it your charging light doesn't work then?
One thing worries me about running seperate belts from your crank pulley is if the belt to the waterpump goes you have no warning (other than lack of heat....well spotted btw).
Been trying to work out a way of bringing the alt pulley into line and running off one belt as I'd like to get rid of my PAS pump altogether.
Glad you got away without damage.......

Bump · Jan 31, 2011

No, not finished all the wiring yet so charging light, temperature sensor, etc. aren't wired up yet.

I bought a 100A alternator which has a spacer at the back so it sits in the right position, i reckon if i move the spacer to the front the alternator will sit far enough forward to connect to the water pump + engine.

Now you've said the lack of warning about the water pump working or not i'm starting to think along the lines of a little turbine in line with the heater matrix connected to a bulb so you can see that it is working... something along those lines - although that may put too much resistance in the path for the water?

hmm.

Maybe something like this (though this particular one won't stand the heat)
Flowmeter Switch Pulsed Water Beer Flow Meter Sensor 1 on eBay (end time 12-Feb-11 17:03:20 GMT)

And re: lubricating the PAS pump... yes there was some lubrication. No there probably wasn't enough and it was probably an accident waiting to happen.

Live and Learn

Bump · Jan 31, 2011

Flowmeter Switch Pulsed Water Beer Flow Meter Sensor 3 on eBay (end time 27-Feb-11 18:55:24 GMT)

80*c at 10 bar... any idea what temperature water going through the heater matrix would get up to? (mounted on the 'return' side which would be cooler)

Beneagles · Jan 31, 2011

blue beasty said:
Been trying to work out a way of bringing the alt pulley into line and running off one belt as I'd like to get rid of my PAS pump altogether.......

I read somewhere - possibly Glencoyne - that fitting a military double pulley to the alt will bring it in line with the water pump / crank

jamesmartin · Jan 31, 2011

i was only asking as i half filled mine with cv grease after removing insides thinking it would be okay ,i was wondering whether it was such an easy fix now

Bump · Jan 31, 2011

jamesmartin said:
i was only asking as i half filled mine with cv grease after removing insides thinking it would be okay ,i was wondering whether it was such an easy fix now

Ah, ok, i'd say you should be ok - i hadn't done anything as good as that, but, for the sake of £10 might be worth getting a few fan belts in as spares so that if anything ever does go you can still get home.

I will point out that you will get plenty of warning by the sound it makes... but... if you are doing 60 on a motorway and have plenty of other sounds which probably shouldn't be there as well + keep stopping every hour to check everything and hadn't noticed the PAS pump was falling to bits you may not realise the significance of that particular sound

jamesmartin · Jan 31, 2011

thanks not quite on road yet but something to think about

Bump · Jan 31, 2011

I think Dr. P filled his with G/b oil and welded up the holes and hasn't had any problems...

TheKeymeister · Jan 31, 2011

Didn't glencoyne fit vw golf/jetta alternator pulleys before he started making the spacer kits? May well be easier than wiring in a flowmeter! Other than that, wouldn't the temp gauge start creeping up, would have thought it would be OK if you stopped fairly quickly! I reckon I'd go with that, surely the chances aren't too high of it snapping if you check for damage semi regularly?

Beneagles · Jan 31, 2011

TheKeymeister said:
Didn't glencoyne fit vw golf/jetta alternator pulleys before he started making the spacer kits?

Have had a read through of the Glencoyne article again, and my understanding is that he mentions 3 possibilities.
1) Use the series alternator -with military double pulley
2) Use 200tdi alternator with long-nose pulley from VW Golf/Jetta etc
3) Use 200tdi alternator - mounted on series alternator bracket - using spacer kit.

I don't have series engine...so option 2 is the most likely in my case.

Bump · Feb 2, 2011

Cheers, think for now i'll wire up the temperature sensor and just keep an eye on that... i check the engine multiple times when off-roading / green laning and every time before and after driving - so - it's pretty well maintained from that point of view

Although i do have a series engine so could look at using option 3 in the future!

200tdi PAS

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blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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