200TDI lift pump diesel

Replacing this next week as it failed me. Got bearmach parts arriving.

If anyone has replaced this before, on the whole, is it a relatively easy fix? As in, a straight replacement? Or can there be knock on effects like injection pump damage or engine damage? Vehicle lost power so I pulled over and turned engine off. Started up once to diagnose and then turned off and left. Just curious as to whether a simple £30 fix maybe turn into 100's ! Someone out my kind at rest please

Will check fuel lines and replace fuel filter again. Hopefully no major damage. Never had this before, so just curious.

Ta very much

Iirc it's the same as the 300 one, but with a spacer or somthing? Maybe I'm just making that up though? I only know 300s.

On the 300, it's an easy enough job. The 300 pump can be had for about £25 delivered off eBay for a Delphi, or you can get the blue box kit with pump and gasket, olives, and nuts, all in.

You will need the olives, nuts, and gasket.

And some hylamar etc.

Just make sure the pump has a manual lever on it. They're a god send for priming. Don't just assume the IP will pull the file with enough cranking before the battery dies - make sure the pump is off cam (ie the manual lever has tension) and slacken off one of the fuel filter head banjos. Pump the manual lever until you get seepage at the top of the filter and then seal it all up.

The compression fittings on the pump will leak if you don't tighten them enough. And probably if you overtighten them...

It's not an involved task, and nothing special about it.

On my HS2.8 I've given up with the lift pump (it's custom to the engine - almost identical to the 300 but not quite, and best part of £100 a hit) so I've fitted a small electric faucet pump instead.

Ps lift pump failure generally does not even show until somthing else goes wring and you get air in the system. The IP, on a sealed system, has power enough to pull the fuel up.

I run bio, which destroys the lift pumps, so I'm familiar with changing them. As I say though, you can have a stuffed one and not even know until you need to prime a new fuel filter or somthing.

That said, a friend had issues with his, and even had to be recovered. Turned out it was a little bit of tissue or rag from the fuel tank that had got stuck on the small filter in some (but not all) lift pumps. The cheap ones don't have a filter, but the OEM style Delphi ones do, under the flying saucer type thing. Center screw let's you get to it. But the cheap ones, again, don't.

Easy to change. Bearmach ones are a bit **** imho

julianf said:

Ps lift pump failure generally does not even show until somthing else goes wring and you get air in the system. The IP, on a sealed system, has power enough to pull the fuel up.

I run bio, which destroys the lift pumps, so I'm familiar with changing them. As I say though, you can have a stuffed one and not even know until you need to prime a new fuel filter or somthing.

That said, a friend had issues with his, and even had to be recovered. Turned out it was a little bit of tissue or rag from the fuel tank that had got stuck on the small filter in some (but not all) lift pumps. The cheap ones don't have a filter, but the OEM style Delphi ones do, under the flying saucer type thing. Center screw let's you get to it. But the cheap ones, again, don't.

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Smashing reply, thank you for all the info! Lots of Stella advice there. I may send back the bearmach LP and order the Delphi instead if that's the better option for mechanical. Failing that, I may go red top facet electric to be on the safe side. Not sure really as I've tried to keep everything OEM and better than factory, but for reliability I'd rather pay extra if electric offers that. Don't fancy breaking down on the M5 again on a bank holiday.

NightShadow91 said:

Smashing reply, thank you for all the info! Lots of Stella advice there. I may send back the bearmach LP and order the Delphi instead if that's the better option for mechanical. Failing that, I may go red top facet electric to be on the safe side. Not sure really as I've tried to keep everything OEM and better than factory, but for reliability I'd rather pay extra if electric offers that. Don't fancy breaking down on the M5 again on a bank holiday.

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There was some air in the header tank as I don't think it was bled properly after the coolant flush it had done a while back. Then again, my Landy specialist did take a look at the turbo boost before I went away - as I was up to my eyes in night shifts - but noticed a whistle every time the turbo was working and during gear changes too. Would stop when at speed and when depressing the clutch. Never heard this before and mentioned this to my Landy guy, said it wouldn't be an issue. Then again, heard on this thread that a hole in the boost diaphragm could cause power loss. Anyway, I'll get the LP replaced either mechanical Delphi or Electric Facet and see what other can of worms I find. So long as the injection pump and big bosch unit aren't affected, I'll be a happy chappy. Thanks again

payydg said:

Easy to change. Bearmach ones are a bit **** imho

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Oh really! Might send it back then. Delphi better I guess then? Though might go electric. In two minds. Just want reliability long term. Never going to sell, replaced so much for future proofing.

NightShadow91 said:

Oh really! Might send it back then. Delphi better I guess then? Though might go electric. In two minds. Just want reliability long term. Never going to sell, replaced so much for future proofing.

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Just go electric, in this day and age they are so tried and tested that they are fitted to pretty much everything over old mechanical pumps, fit near the fuel tank and forget about it.