200tdi Crankshaft pulley... LH or RH Thread ???

[Jon]

Hia ll,

Just a quick question. I need to revoe the crankshaft pulley and
damper on my Defender 200tdi.

Is it a Left Hand or Right Hand Thread??


Thanks
Jon

 

[Pantelis Giamarellos]

RH

take care
Pantelis

"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hia ll,
>
> Just a quick question. I need to revoe the crankshaft pulley and
> damper on my Defender 200tdi.
>
> Is it a Left Hand or Right Hand Thread??
>
>
> Thanks
> Jon
>

 

[Austin Shackles]

On or around Thu, 03 Feb 2005 12:31:00 +0000, Jon <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Hia ll,
>
>Just a quick question. I need to revoe the crankshaft pulley and
>damper on my Defender 200tdi.
>
>Is it a Left Hand or Right Hand Thread??

right hand and 'kin tight.

the technique that worked on the 300 TDi was as follows: Fit extra heavy
duty socket to bolt, fit big swivel bar to bolt, turn engine clockwise
(facing towards it) until the handle of the swivel is about 1" above the
chassis rail. Turn key to operate starter, while at the same time praying
to any deities you acknowledge.

The first attempt was using an inferior quality swivel handle, this broke.

if you know someone with a rattle gun (aka air impact wrench) then that's
probably a better plan.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".

 

[RSTL99]

I myself used the following approach to remove the crank pulley bolt on
my 2.5n/a:
- drain and remove oil pan (had a leak in it so needed to remove it
anyway to replace the seal)
- jam a piece of 2x4 between the crankshaft journal and the engine
block
- use a proper 6 point socket and 3/4" extension handle, with a 3-4
foot pipe extension
- pull with all your might and eventually the bolt will loosen with a
cracking sound

If you don't feel like removing the oil pan, another way is:
- remove starter
- jam very large screwdriver (or end of crowbar) into the teeth of the
flywheel
- use a proper 6 point socket and 3/4" extension handle, with a 3-4
foot pipe extension
- pull with all your might and eventually the bolt will loosen with a
cracking sound

You can use the reverse to re-tighten after you're done, though have to
make sure you get enough torque on it so bolt will not loosen (use
loctite on the bolt threads). In my case, I retightened using the 2x4
trick, but had to disassemble because I had made an error in my timing
belt replacement, and removed the starter to re-tighten (didn't feel
like taking off the oil pan a second time!).

Using the starter to loosen it was not something I wanted to risk
(though I know a lot of people do it), and I didn't have an impact gun,
so used good old leverage and elbow grease.

Good luck.
--Robert

 

[Badger]

"RSTL99" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I myself used the following approach to remove the crank pulley bolt on
> my 2.5n/a:
> - drain and remove oil pan (had a leak in it so needed to remove it
> anyway to replace the seal)
> - jam a piece of 2x4 between the crankshaft journal and the engine
> block
> - use a proper 6 point socket and 3/4" extension handle, with a 3-4
> foot pipe extension
> - pull with all your might and eventually the bolt will loosen with a
> cracking sound

Either that or the block will crack - I've seen it done, on a V8, which is
ally as opposed to cast iron/steel!

< snip >
> Using the starter to loosen it was not something I wanted to risk
> (though I know a lot of people do it),

My preferred method, with a block between the heel of the drive and the
front crossmember, to prevent it jumping off. It works.

> and I didn't have an impact gun,

Only impact airgun I've ever came across that could loosen these damn bolts
was a 1" drive thingy that weighed a ton, fed by a 3/4" bore airline!!!

Badger.

 

[Jon]

Thanks for all the replies...

3ft long 1" drive ratchet and impact socket soon 'persuaded' it to
come loose.

Thanks.
Jon


On Thu, 3 Feb 2005 19:18:16 +0000 (UTC), "Badger"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"RSTL99" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>I myself used the following approach to remove the crank pulley bolt on
>> my 2.5n/a:
>> - drain and remove oil pan (had a leak in it so needed to remove it
>> anyway to replace the seal)
>> - jam a piece of 2x4 between the crankshaft journal and the engine
>> block
>> - use a proper 6 point socket and 3/4" extension handle, with a 3-4
>> foot pipe extension
>> - pull with all your might and eventually the bolt will loosen with a
>> cracking sound
>
>Either that or the block will crack - I've seen it done, on a V8, which is
>ally as opposed to cast iron/steel!
>
>< snip >
>> Using the starter to loosen it was not something I wanted to risk
>> (though I know a lot of people do it),
>
>My preferred method, with a block between the heel of the drive and the
>front crossmember, to prevent it jumping off. It works.
>
>> and I didn't have an impact gun,
>
>Only impact airgun I've ever came across that could loosen these damn bolts
>was a 1" drive thingy that weighed a ton, fed by a 3/4" bore airline!!!
>
>Badger.
>

 

[Niamh Holding]

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Badger) wrote:

> Only impact airgun I've ever came across that could loosen these damn
> bolts was a 1" drive thingy that weighed a ton, fed by a 3/4" bore
> airline!!!

Our 3/4" air wrench hasn't failed to date...

Now that is a perfect way to make sure the next one won't budge!

--
Niamh
4x4 Cymru
http://www.4x4cymru.co.uk

 

[Austin Shackles]

On or around Sat, 5 Feb 2005 07:41 +0000 (GMT Standard Time),
[email protected] (Niamh Holding) enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>,
>[email protected] (Badger) wrote:
>
>> Only impact airgun I've ever came across that could loosen these damn
>> bolts was a 1" drive thingy that weighed a ton, fed by a 3/4" bore
>> airline!!!
>
>Our 3/4" air wrench hasn't failed to date...
>
>Now that is a perfect way to make sure the next one won't budge!

watch it, the gods are reading this...


.... and why's the bleed screw on the disco slave cylinder so sodding
inaccessible?
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"I am tired and sick of war. Its glory is all moonshine... War is hell"
Gen. Sherman (1820-1891) Attr. words in Address at Michigan Military
Academy, 19 June 1879.

 

[Austin Shackles]

On or around Sat, 05 Feb 2005 09:32:06 +0000, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On or around Sat, 5 Feb 2005 07:41 +0000 (GMT Standard Time),
>[email protected] (Niamh Holding) enlightened us thusly:
>
>>In article <[email protected]>,
>>[email protected] (Badger) wrote:
>>
>>> Only impact airgun I've ever came across that could loosen these damn
>>> bolts was a 1" drive thingy that weighed a ton, fed by a 3/4" bore
>>> airline!!!
>>
>>Our 3/4" air wrench hasn't failed to date...
>>
>>Now that is a perfect way to make sure the next one won't budge!
>
>watch it, the gods are reading this...
>
>
>... and why's the bleed screw on the disco slave cylinder so sodding
>inaccessible?

actually, part of it might be the nonstandard exhaust. nothing I've got
will shift the bugger; it's tight and inaccesible.

nemmind, it can be looked at while swapping gearboxes.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
------------------------------------------------\
>> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them.
a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!