200tdi cracked block?

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SpaceDawg said:
Hi,

Ok I think I have a leak on the right side of the engine where the manifold is, between two of the core plugs, as anyone ever heard of this before?
Click to expand...
Yes, My 200 developed a water leak in the block side wall between 3 and 4 cylinder. It would leak out onto the manifold, creating steam ! Couldn't figure out what was happening to start with..... then the rusty water stain started to show down the block.... side wall cracked.. new engine required !!
Can't say for sure what caused it but it had been in for a head gasket some time before it failed..... I wonder if the head bolts weren't torqued correctly or wrong sequence ?
**** happens
 
Rustystuff said:
Yes, My 200 developed a water leak in the block side wall between 3 and 4 cylinder. It would leak out onto the manifold, creating steam ! Couldn't figure out what was happening to start with..... then the rusty water stain started to show down the block.... side wall cracked.. new engine required !!
Can't say for sure what caused it but it had been in for a head gasket some time before it failed..... I wonder if the head bolts weren't torqued correctly or wrong sequence ?
**** happens
Click to expand...
thats not uncommon if bolt hole isnt blown out and has some coolant in
 
Ok for the bolts etc, the bolt which did not go in perfect creaked when I dialed it in. I did the correct torque sequence and used a dial guage. However, the bolts were all over the place when I took the head off, nothing was done up properly.

I did clean out all the bolt holes and ensured they were all dry and clean, I made a thread chaser and run that in and out a few times to clean the threads.

Where it looks like its leaking is also below and between where the bolts go, the 10mm ones.

What I think I need to do is run the car and get it to some ramps so I can see the leak, I fixed the next hose leak last night but I'll get a new water pump bypass hose.

It is running really well the tappets were done and I had the injectors cleaned when I did the head. Flat I recon I can give you a race now, albeit dripping water.

I'll get a second opinion and if its cracked I''ll be on the hunt for a block as everything else on the engine has been done, and I mean everything now.

At least its not difficult to work on, but I don't have an engine crane thingy.
 
My 300tdi had the exact same problem. Managed to sell off the head and other good bits to make up for the cost of a new old one
 
Hmm, I'm getting it up on some ramp Friday, I have the day off work so it will arrive warm, and I'll take it from there, if the block is cracked then I'm going to get a good engine fitted as I want to keep the car....
 
With the galv chassis and bulkhead it would be daft not to keep it IMO.

Short engines are available easily, or pick up a cheap disco lump as the block are identical
 
SpaceDawg said:
Whats one of them?
Click to expand...

Dogs bollacks, lots of people are still afraid of rad seal and thats going back to the crumbly dog turd days of old, which were quite chunky and could block up the small waterways found in newer cars.
K seal is actually quite good, we use it in the trucks at work.
I sealed a vw rad appprox 10 yrs ago its still running and leak free.
Mate did his shogun still running and leak free
I sealed the badly leaking rad in my series 2 and I got another 2/3 yrs out of the rad.

Basically its a tenner versus the hassle of a another block, fit the k-seal and enjoy the car and look for an engine at your leisure.
 
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