200tdi Conversion BUT with a Genuine Defender Engine not Disco

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Sprucey

Member
Posts
12
Location
Worcestershire
Hi All,

Sorry if this has all been convered before but I cannot find anything on the Genuine Defender conversion.

Currently I have a 1988 90 Pickup fitted with a 19J.
Breathing terrible and becoming a chore to drive now.

I have been looking for a Defender 200tdi engine, which I have now found.. and collected.
(Heard it running in motor before removal)
I also picked up Rad/Int cooler , some pipes, air cleaner plus some other bits.

I believe it has done around 184,000 miles which I am told is nothing.

I was going to rebuild the engine but have been advised to just do a major service.
This is where you guys come in...

What would you do in my situation? what would you change/replace?

Just want to get it all right first time round.

WOrth mentioning also, I went for the defender 200tdi as not to deal with exhaust manifold etc etc. it should just slot in i'm hoping.
 
Plenty of guides. Have you tried Google?

Have a look for Steve Parker. They offer kits and info on the conversion.
 
So I did the same.

You don’t need steve Parker conversion bits you can just use off the shelf standard parts. There is useful info on steve Parker about the bellhousing mods you need to make (removing a stud and drilling/tapping)

I hadn’t heard my tdi running, so I stripped my engine, had the head pressure tested then rebuilt with all new valve seals, etc, had the valves lapped new HG etc.

All new gaskets everywhere and new water pump and that kind of things. I took the sump off and checked the bottom end but float was in spec so didn’t strip it. Bores were clean so didn’t drop the pistons out.

You need to change your radiator frame to the tdi spec one that mounts the inter cooler and rad, then you need to change the upper rad mounts for TDI ones.

Wiring is mostly plug and play for the main engine loom.

PAS fitted straight on and used standard landrover pipes

Engine mounts didn’t need changing.

Exhaust mounts - middle one needed swapping for a tdi one and I needed to welded on an extra hanger on the drivers side rear of the chassis - an take a photo of you want.

All radiator and hoses etc were standard defender tdi hoses.

Make sure you get a tdi air box for a complete ‘factory’ install

I now have a completely factory spec tdi conversion which means I don’t have to dick about custom parts or any cobbled together and bodged ****e.

Happy to take any photos you may need if you want

Ed
 
Thanks Flat!
Exactly what i was looking for.

I too have gone this route for full tdi spec and future works etc.

I had the Rad/int cooler mounted in a frame? is this the part you refer to?

I also had the airbox/filter housing.

I was thinking of going all silicone pipes... what you think?

ALso i was under the impression that the LT77 in now would bolt straight onto housing? but with a disco 200tdi you need to alter studs etc.. is this not the case
 
Also other than obvious like timing belt, what else would people change while engine is out?
How big is your budget?

Most things can be changed with the engine in the vehicle. If you have the time and money, then sure do loads of pre-prep. But no reason why many things can’t be done afterwards on a needs be basis.
 
thanks 300hp.
buget As small as it needs to be.
just looking for some general advise.
I have searched all over google and here.... hence why I setup an account to ask the specific questions I need answers to.
 
thanks 300hp.
buget As small as it needs to be.
just looking for some general advise.
I have searched all over google and here.... hence why I setup an account to ask the specific questions I need answers to.
Trouble is. There is no right or wrong. Just personal preference.

If you have time and money. Then part strip it, check it all out and replace all major serviceable parts.

But as said. This can be done in the Vehcile too for the most part. So it’s not a major loss if you don’t do them initially. And if your aim is getting it running.

You’ll want to Drill n tap when mounting to the gearbox,as the TD mounted slightly differently. Many don’t do this with a 200Tdi, but it can put undue pressure on the rear crank seal and cause oil leaks. Info in detail is on Steve Parker’s site, so I’m not going to type out what is already there to read. They also sell a kit with the right drill bit, tap and bolts. Although you can obviously source these individually too.
 
Trouble is. There is no right or wrong. Just personal preference.

If you have time and money. Then part strip it, check it all out and replace all major serviceable parts.

But as said. This can be done in the Vehcile too for the most part. So it’s not a major loss if you don’t do them initially. And if your aim is getting it running.

You’ll want to Drill n tap when mounting to the gearbox,as the TD mounted slightly differently. Many don’t do this with a 200Tdi, but it can put undue pressure on the rear crank seal and cause oil leaks. Info in detail is on Steve Parker’s site, so I’m not going to type out what is already there to read. They also sell a kit with the right drill bit, tap and bolts. Although you can obviously source these individually too.

yep deffo do this, people leave a bolt out but thats lazy and can make the rear crank shaft oil seal to fail prematurely - which isnt a fast fix tbh.

Do it right first time, use a pillar drill to get it done square or ask an engineering workshop to do it for you if not confident.
 
Also other than obvious like timing belt, what else would people change while engine is out?

rear crank shaft oil seal, get a genuine one and a tool to push it in square, i used a bit of exhaust IIRC.

Rear core plug if it looks dodgy, but leave it if its okay.

Clutch, and upgrade the clutch fork to the XD reinforced version.
 
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