2006 TD4 Diesel leak - help!!

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Lightningad

Member
Posts
39
Location
Oldham, uk
i have noticed a slowly growing patch of diesel on the driveway since november, and on cold mornings a strong smell of diesel in the cab.
I suspect its the hp fuel pump, and while the garage said they spotted a damp patch they wiped it off and i havent seen one since.
He recommended a specialist LR garage to replace the pump, but they said there was no sign it was leaking so hadn't done anything.
i noticed the smell this morning was stronger than previously, and the drive looks a little damper (hard to tell in the rain) so i just spent ages with a torch trying to find a leak but failing. I'm not a mechanic but can tell if something is damp or not! I can see and smell diesel in the floor pan - i don't think its a lot, but there shouldnt be any. The hp pump looks moist - it looks like it has a sheen of shiny old oil (the intercooler pipe above split a while back so that might have showered it with crap) . Everywhere else it looks dry. The fuel in/out pipes are dry.

what else could i be looking for?

I read someone saying to get someone else to switch engine on whilst watching for leaks, so my question is where exactly should i be looking?

Its difficult to see anything around the pump as its well hidden, and if its just a quick leak before it seals up, i dont want to be looking in the wrong place.

Is a leak like this likely to cause a sudden breakdown? or just a slow deterioration?


forgot to mention - this landy does not have the fuel burning heater!
thanks
adam
 
There's a second pipe on all injectors, to return unused fuel. They have nasty plastic connectors that perish, or the pipes wear out. You'll see little pools of diesel round the top of the injectors if you have a leak.
Mike
great - thank you...as soon as the rain stops i'll have a look. I assume they are under the large black plastic cover on top of the engine block (i did say i wasn't a mechanic!).
 
Hi Adam.
If it is the high pressure fuel pump it will most likely be the O-rings on the regulator, £5.99 for the part and maybe an hours work to fit them, if you know what you are doing of cause but not all owner like to be hands on, also as stated above it could be one of the leak back T connectors or an hose leading from them, i changed mine from the plastic connectors to brass ones, once again easy to check remove the engine cover, and do a check, if you decide to remove the connector be careful as they can become brittle and snap, so a long nosed pair of pliers help, use then to grip the main square of the connector, once you have removed the retaining spring, few photo's below what year is your FL Arctic
 

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Hi Adam.
If it is the high pressure fuel pump it will most likely be the O-rings on the regulator, £5.99 for the part and maybe an hours work to fit them, if you know what you are doing of cause but not all owner like to be hands on, also as stated above it could be one of the leak back T connectors or an hose leading from them, i changed mine from the plastic connectors to brass ones, once again easy to check remove the engine cover, and do a check, if you decide to remove the connector be careful as they can become brittle and snap, so a long nosed pair of pliers help, use then to grip the main square of the connector, once you have removed the retaining spring, few photo's below what year is your FL Arctic
thanks Arctic.

its 2006.
thanks for the photos - very helpful.
just had a look under the injector cover - i havent taken anything else off as i hadnt seen you rpost then, but it all looks dry as a bone under there. couldnt see any fuel anywhere, so probably not worth the risk of damaging anything.
I've booked it back in for the pump replacing next week - i dont have the skills or time to spend under the hood...i'm just trying to diagnose it first so i have a better idea when talking to the mechanic.

adam
 
thanks Arctic.

its 2006.
thanks for the photos - very helpful.
just had a look under the injector cover - i havent taken anything else off as i hadnt seen you rpost then, but it all looks dry as a bone under there. couldnt see any fuel anywhere, so probably not worth the risk of damaging anything.
I've booked it back in for the pump replacing next week - i dont have the skills or time to spend under the hood...i'm just trying to diagnose it first so i have a better idea when talking to the mechanic.

adam

Adam.
seeing you have booked it in for the pump get them first to check the regulator easy fix as I say and only minimal cost for the part, link below and at most an hours work, more like 40 minutes if I had to be pinned down on the time.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332113324209?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
thanks Arctic.

its 2006.
thanks for the photos - very helpful.
just had a look under the injector cover - i havent taken anything else off as i hadnt seen you rpost then, but it all looks dry as a bone under there. couldnt see any fuel anywhere, so probably not worth the risk of damaging anything.
I've booked it back in for the pump replacing next week - i dont have the skills or time to spend under the hood...i'm just trying to diagnose it first so i have a better idea when talking to the mechanic.

adam
If you're not sure the pump has a problem it sounds a bit OTT to be replacing it - it sounds rather expensive (ie reconditioned) or risky (ie from a breakers) to me. I would definitely ask for them to return your old pump in case the new one fails or it isn't the problem and is fine. As said, a leaky pump might only need a cheap rubber O ring replaced and its good as gold.
 
Adam.
seeing you have booked it in for the pump get them first to check the regulator easy fix as I say and only minimal cost for the part, link below and at most an hours work, more like 40 minutes if I had to be pinned down on the time.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332113324209?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
It may be a straight forward job, but as I understand it, the starter motor needs to be removed to gain access to the regulator. This sounds like an hour's head and bum scratching & coffee before even picking up the tools to me as a non-Ninja mechanic. It is though something I would definitely do before replacing the whole pump.
 
Hi,
Check this first (cheap, quick & easy). The HP pump feeds the common rail (a pipe) and that feeds the injectors. The common rail runs at extremely high diesel pressures. In the end of the common rail is a pressure switch which is screwed in. It leaks - tighten it up. You need a (27mm?) deep socket (maybe not a long socket, deep means the socket (double?) hexagon goes a long way inside, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, a firm nip should be enough. If you're a nervous type find out what the torque setting is and use a torque spanner. The switch seal is a copper washer that relaxes, there should be no need to replace it (maybe?).

Where is it? – left hand side of the engine at the top, under the cover. (Stand a the front of the car, look at the engine, the switch is on your right). A 3 wire connector plugs into the switch, this has to be released to get the socket on. I use a lever to help ease the plug back on.

The check - find the connector, find the switch, put your (dry) fingers under the switch, wet? You've found it.

Good luck.
 
Hi,
Check this first (cheap, quick & easy). The HP pump feeds the common rail (a pipe) and that feeds the injectors. The common rail runs at extremely high diesel pressures. In the end of the common rail is a pressure switch which is screwed in. It leaks - tighten it up. You need a (27mm?) deep socket (maybe not a long socket, deep means the socket (double?) hexagon goes a long way inside, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, a firm nip should be enough. If you're a nervous type find out what the torque setting is and use a torque spanner. The switch seal is a copper washer that relaxes, there should be no need to replace it (maybe?).

Where is it? – left hand side of the engine at the top, under the cover. (Stand a the front of the car, look at the engine, the switch is on your right). A 3 wire connector plugs into the switch, this has to be released to get the socket on. I use a lever to help ease the plug back on.

The check - find the connector, find the switch, put your (dry) fingers under the switch, wet? You've found it.

Good luck.
Interesting...i noticed that left hand engine cover screwmount was slightly oily, but couldnt understand why. I'll check it further when i get chance. Thanks.
 
Had a similar problem with mine. Was seeping for about 6 months then GUSH someone had turned the tap on, it was streaming out.
It was leaking from the main body, not the regulator end. You can check the regulator end for leaks without removing anything.
I got a replacement pump from PF Jones £200, job done.
You need a special tool to remove the pump, besides that its pretty straight forward. took me about 5 hours
Your not that far from me, if you need the pump removal tool just let me know.
 
i noticed that left hand engine cover screwmount was slightly oily, but couldnt understand why
that particular bolt is exposed to oil splash ..
( leave it off .. run engine .. you'll see oil out of that hole )
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