2001 Freelander Handbrake adjustment

MGT · Nov 7, 2019

I've looked through the threads but can't find an answer to this question - what is the action when adjusting the handbrake through the hole on the back of the hub? I can stick a screwdriver in and prod about but I'd rather be a bit more scientific about it if I can, especially as it is hard to get to being on the back. I also don't want to spend time winding it the wrong way.
It is driver's side.

andyfreelandy · Nov 7, 2019

Post 2000 cars have an auto adjust but very often the ratchet seizes. You can't successfully turn the small toothed wheel through the slots in the backplate.

Much easier to whip the drum off, remove and ensure all parts are free to work as they should, then the foot brake will set the brake shoe distance correctly after several operations. If the handbrake is still slack, adjust with nut at the bottom of the arm rest console, entry point is behind the cigar lighter / ash tray in rear passenger compartment.

MGT · Nov 7, 2019

andyfreelandy said:
Post 2000 cars have an auto adjust but very often the ratchet seizes. You can't successfully turn the small toothed wheel through the slots in the backplate.

Much easier to whip the drum off, remove and ensure all parts are free to work as they should, then the foot brake will set the brake shoe distance correctly after several operations. If the handbrake is still slack, adjust with nut at the bottom of the arm rest console, entry point is behind the cigar lighter / ash tray in rear passenger compartment.

Ok, thanks for that. I had a feeling I would have to take the drum off. Wont adjust via arm rest console as still too slack and pumping brake doesn't work. Was ok and then went. It is replacement cable so I know it isn't broken. Maybe something come loose in drum. I got someone to do replacement because I couldn't get a nut loose under car.

andyfreelandy · Nov 7, 2019

Usually it is well worth servicing the rear brakes, they get ignored as they last a long time, but as the shoes wear out if the auto adjust is not in good clean lubricated condition then the hand brake suffers.
Get whoever does the work to ensure that the auto adjuster is free and lubricated with copper slip and the ratchet operating lever is not worn away by repeatedly trying to adjust a seized ratchet !!
Also, lube the shoe contact points with copper slip.

Obviously, replace shoes if needed and particularly the shoe retainer clips which rust out and can cause total brake failure if broken.

Nodge68 · Nov 7, 2019

I'd strip and replace everything if it's done more than 100K miles. The drum will be worn after that distance, so you'll never get it adjusted correctly. My current FL1 will lock the rear wheels on the HB, simply because I replaced all parts when I got it, and now just service the rear drums before the MOT.

There's no point trying to make old, rusty and worn rear drums work.

MGT · Nov 7, 2019

I think the rear brakes have been overhauled at some point, but I will check at the weekend. I plan to take this vehicle up to the next MOT then retire it for a year while I do more stuff to it myself. It is going to need a new clutch, which I will attempt once it is parked up, as well as the other stuff.

Thank you for your advice chaps. This has to be the most helpful forum on the web. This morning I replaced a wheel stud using advice on another thread to file out a groove on the inner hub so the stud can be knocked out and replaced without taking everything to bits. Saved huge amount of time.

2001 Freelander Handbrake adjustment

MGT

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andyfreelandy

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MGT

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andyfreelandy

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Nodge68

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MGT

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