2000 freelander

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harris hawker

harris hawker

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109
Location
Cheshire
Hi everyone, i have a disco and my mrs is looking at freelanders and she has been offered a 2000 reg 1.8 petrol freelander with 61k on the clock and only 2 owners from new. Now i have been told different things by alot of people 1 of them being the head gasket going??? any advice on this would be greatly welcomed
 
There is an updated HG known as an MLS (multi layer steel) which is fitted with a strengthened oil rail and this is a better bet providing the cylinder liners are above the block face
 
I would have thought that if you could get the freelander at a good price then replace the head gasket and fit the new oil rail before the old ones fail then it sounds like a plan:).
I dont know of any body who has gone down this route most only fix it if its broken
(like I did):(
 
Ok as some of you may know i have got the mrs a 2001 freelander 1.8 petrol. I got it for a good price and its only had 2 owners and covered just over 62000 miles. I have a good look over it and only found the rear diff mount needs changing and i have bought one ready to fit when i get a break in the weather, but i am going to do the head gasket with a msl set. When i do this i will also do replace the water pump and cam belt as well, but would like some advice on what the bottom oil rail is? and how does that fail? also should i have the head skimmed or not? At the moment there is no signs at all of HGF so i would say the head is still flat so does it need skimming? When i do the head gasket i will use new head bolts as well, and hopefully this should do the trick and last her a couple of years, she does not really do that many miles a year and struggles to hit the 5000 mark.
Any advice would be welcomed on parts, where to buy them from, makes etc
 
harris hawker said:
Ok as some of you may know i have got the mrs a 2001 freelander 1.8 petrol. I got it for a good price and its only had 2 owners and covered just over 62000 miles. I have a good look over it and only found the rear diff mount needs changing and i have bought one ready to fit when i get a break in the weather, but i am going to do the head gasket with a msl set. When i do this i will also do replace the water pump and cam belt as well, but would like some advice on what the bottom oil rail is? and how does that fail? also should i have the head skimmed or not? At the moment there is no signs at all of HGF so i would say the head is still flat so does it need skimming? When i do the head gasket i will use new head bolts as well, and hopefully this should do the trick and last her a couple of years, she does not really do that many miles a year and struggles to hit the 5000 mark.
Any advice would be welcomed on parts, where to buy them from, makes etc
Click to expand...



:doh:
 
just very frustrating thats all in my point of view.

people come on here asking about the petrols, we explain the problems and people still go and buy them.

then 2 days later we see posts about all there problems there now finding out.



seems if your going to have to spend a load of time and money on fixing it, changing the seals and head gasket, you might aswell spend that bit more in the first place and get a diesel and not have any HGF worries ?

:confused:
 
Last edited:
2.0_hippo said:
just very frustrating thats all in my point of view.

people come on here asking about the petrols, we explain the problems and people still go and buy them.

then 2 days later we see posts about all there problems there now finding out.



seems if your going to have to spend a load of time and money on fixing it, changing the seals and head gasket, you might aswell spend that bit more in the first place and get a diesel and not have any HGF worries ?

:confused:
Click to expand...


I think you are missing the point, i am not fixing anything just fitting uprated parts to prevent the problem happening to start with. The K engine does have its ups and downs granted but for what my mrs needs it for its fine, I have a tdi discovery but i do alot more with it. I am just looking for some good constructive advise thats all:cool:
 
yes of course.

im sure there some good advice about fitting the uprated parts on here.

try the search, im sure its been talked about lots of times before.

:)
 
harris hawker said:
Ok as some of you may know i have got the mrs a 2001 freelander 1.8 petrol. I got it for a good price and its only had 2 owners and covered just over 62000 miles. I have a good look over it and only found the rear diff mount needs changing and i have bought one ready to fit when i get a break in the weather, but i am going to do the head gasket with a msl set. When i do this i will also do replace the water pump and cam belt as well, but would like some advice on what the bottom oil rail is? and how does that fail? also should i have the head skimmed or not? At the moment there is no signs at all of HGF so i would say the head is still flat so does it need skimming? When i do the head gasket i will use new head bolts as well, and hopefully this should do the trick and last her a couple of years, she does not really do that many miles a year and struggles to hit the 5000 mark.
Any advice would be welcomed on parts, where to buy them from, makes etc
Click to expand...

The bottom rail is what the head bolts (or through bolts) bolt into, it doesn't fail but the uprated part is stronger so the head/block/rail assembly is stronger and the head less likely to move around on the block.

You don't really need to renew the head bolts unless they have stretched - do a search for the measurements, I understand the OE head bolts are a good spec and rarely fail.

No need to skim the head if its not warped and the head face is not damaged, all you would be doing is skiming a perfect head face to achieve a perfect head face.

Has the HG been changed before? if so I would tend not to bother replacing it unless it fails but I guess doing the work yourself its a small outlay for greater peace of mind:)
 
as above really, skim only if needed, if you fit the new oil rail this stiffens the whole block so minimising head movement when heating and cooling, if this fitted then fit with new bolts, trawl throgh somethings not right thread, a lot of good points and a lot of rubbish also.
 
Mantamad said:
The bottom rail is what the head bolts (or through bolts) bolt into, it doesn't fail but the uprated part is stronger so the head/block/rail assembly is stronger and the head less likely to move around on the block.

You don't really need to renew the head bolts unless they have stretched - do a search for the measurements, I understand the OE head bolts are a good spec and rarely fail.

No need to skim the head if its not warped and the head face is not damaged, all you would be doing is skiming a perfect head face to achieve a perfect head face.

Has the HG been changed before? if so I would tend not to bother replacing it unless it fails but I guess doing the work yourself its a small outlay for greater peace of mind:)
Click to expand...

i disagree if you are going to all the trouble of this to prevent a failure it seems silly not to replace the stretch bolts as they are not expensive as for skimming i always skim a head when rebuilding something fair enough if you have just had the head off and it needs to come off again because of a separate fault then i wouldnt skim but in a general term i always get the head machined and when dealing with a k series better safe than sorry
 
Upto now the head has never been done, I was going to buy a set with the gaskets and bolts in it. But the oil rail is new to me, is this in the gasket set or a separate item? And I have seen loads of sets on eBay all seam to be the same but the prices range from 40 quid to 140 quid??? The head skimming part will only cost 35 quid so should I just have it done, I was going to reseat all the valves anyway.
 
personally i would skim head for the sake of 35 quid then even if the machinist only takes of a thou you have peace of mind, as for ebay i would tend to have a look around landy parts specialists and see what they have to offer, im not sure what they mean by oil rail im gona go google it the now, ive had a few k series to bits but that was about ten years ago
 
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Land Rover up-rated oil rail - For use will all K Series engines


2 Images available. Click above to view the gallery.Part Number: LCN000140L
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Land Rover up-rated oil rail. For use with the Land Rover MLS (Multi Layer Shim) head gasket. This oil rail has been designed in conjunction with the MLS head gasket to reduce the chances of HGF(Head gsaket failure) that is commonally associated with the K Series engine.
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maximum head warp = .05mm (0.002"). Do not skim unless outside of tolerance or if cylinder liners have worn head as the surface is work hardened.
 
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