Series 3 2.25 Petrol unusual engine behavior

Right - this is going to be a bit of a hard question to word correctly so here we go.

I have a S3 88 inch 2.25 petrol, which has just had rewiring & tuneup, overdrive installed (and new tyres).
the repair work was done in a city 300km away.

Cruised back running fine, sitting about 80-85kmh most of the way (overdrive).

Got back, oil was right at the bottom of dipstick.

Refilled with 20W-60 Penrite, went 30km on road, 4x4ing for 2hrs, 30km home again, running good.

Yesterday (1 week later), checked oil - just under the 'L' mark. refilled, drove 40km, 2hrs 4x4ing, running good, water crossing or two - maybe 10-15 inches max, then parked up for tea, drove home an hour later, and she started (with a bit of difficulty), then was bogging badly under power after warming up, left choke on, got on the highway, and could not take choke off at all without her bogging/missing, smoking badly, managed to limp home, oil down to halfway between H & L mark. I knew there was water crossings planned (albeit shallow ones), so i sprayed a lot of WD40 around, put the ol' rubber glove over dizzy etc.

oh, one more thing, at the start of the last 4x4 trip, i was driving along the side of a bank, tilting right, when a massive cloud of white smoke came out the exhaust (lasted maybe 5sec) ..... nothing more happened, and she was running fine, so oh well keep going....

If anyone has any thoughts please chuck 'em on, i'm not a engine expert by any means. (And i wasn't thrashing her either - I look after my beloved 'lil S3)

thanks in advance!
S3ww

Also here's an couple pics for ref - can easy take more if it helps answer my question!


Edited to add pic
S3ww

I'd take the air filter cover off and check the air intake system, to see if water's got in and past the filter.

Similarly the fuel filter and lines.

It looks like the engine bay has had its share of dirty water in it or sprayed around it. I'd agree with PaulD about checking the air filter for water but also double check all ignition bits for water contamination. Symptoms like these could be a number of things, so you're gonna have to eliminate as you go. My series 3 sometimes has these symptoms, and it never goes near water, electronic ignition helped a lot.

Col

Thanks for the replies guys, will double check the ignition & fuel lines tonight, I did pull the air filter when i got home from 4x4 trip no2 and there was no water thankfully....

Col, what electronic ignition system do you use? is it easy to install/what kind of price range are we talking? also did that fix the issues you'd been having? (There may already be a thread on this?)

Cheers,
S3ww

Your using a lot of oil take the plugs out and check there colours are all similiar , should be a light brown colour.
When they tuned it did they do a compression test 1st?
Did it smoke/ use oil at all before it went to be tuned.

Not sure if they did a compression test - will ask. It did use oil before the tune, barely smoked before, and the same after tune, until it starting running funny - a fair amount of smoke then under acceleration.
See photo below of spark plug, all look about the same. They were new about 1000 kms ago.

Took her around the block just now, few mins warming up first, under gentle acceleration (quarter - half throttle) there was some hesitation, increasing with more throttle, probably fairly normal for cold(ish)running, but normally she's a lot better than that (usually pulls away easily on low throttle).

After a few more mins of driving around I couldn't pull in the choke at all, otherwise she'd just bog down and die, wouldn't even idle with no choke...
No obvious missing/sputtering/other noises, it would just bog.

Looked in air filter - few tiny specs of dirt/dust, but no water, no major dirt/wet patches that i could see. Looked pretty clean.
Distributor/ignition leads all look relatively clean and dry etc.

FYI, currently running 98 octane BP ultimate whatever... (including the 350km trip (about 18.8mpg) & the other two 4x4 trips)

Where is the fuel filter usually on these?

Thanks again,
S3ww

Also, looking into options for electronic ignition, something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover...ronic-ignition-performance-kitSC/170732793994

Thoughts?
Thanks in Advance
S3ww

Your Spark plug indicates ash deposits due to burning oil. Many years ago I inadvertently overfilled the engine oil in my van, it ran with the symptoms you have. Fixed by draining the oil and refilling with correct volume (not relying on the dipstick, only use the dipstick after filling with correct volume and then benchmarking the correct level on the stick). Too high an oil level will result in too much splash in the bores and will get past the piston rings and into the combustion chamber. And it will run sh1te.

That does look like its burning oil, do a compression test and see if the pistons/cyliners are in good condition.

The lift pump should have a sediment bowl but it's wise to fit an inline disposable filter between pump and carb if you haven't got one.

What carb is it running? Some of your symptoms could be blocked jets.

rob1miles said:

do a compression test and see if the pistons/cyliners are in good condition.

Click to expand...

Good advice. Also check the valve clearances in case the garage cocked it up and nil / negative clearances are holding a valve or two open. Oil can get into the combustion chamber via worn inlet valve guides. Worn exhaust valve guides will vent oil straight into the exhaust manifold and burn it there. Burnt valves and / or valve seats will also loose compression.

Just re-read your original post. If you have to leave the choke on for it to run ok, the fuel mix getting to the combustion chamber (without choke) is too weak. Could be due to incorrect adjustment of the carb or air leaks at the carb to manifold joint or manifold to head joint. I suspect you have two separate problems to investigate; incorrect fuel mix, and oil burning. Also have you checked for oil leaks?

I agree there may be several things going on. Oil and mixture could be separate issues and its certainly worth setting the timing first, them mixture then see how it runs. The oil burning may need a compression test. Worst case - the workshop over-revved it and broke the rings, its not unknown on old engines if the tune up guys are used to modern engines.

blue beasty said:

The lift pump should have a sediment bowl but it's wise to fit an inline disposable filter between pump and carb if you haven't got one.

What carb is it running? Some of your symptoms could be blocked jets.

Click to expand...

X1 I think this a fuel/ carb issue.

Thanks guys for all the helpful advice - have made a list of things to check sometime this week based on you recommendations thanks:
-Check fuel jets
-Check fuel filter
-Check ignition system for moisture
-Drain oil and refill with correct amount (6.25L it said somewhere?)
-Compression test cylinders
-Check valve clearances
-Check carb for air leaks
-Fit inline fuel filter

one more question - would the 98 fuel I'm running have anything to do with blocking jets etc?

Will try and get to these asap and let you know....
Thanks so far,
S3ww

S3weekendwarrior said:

would the 98 fuel I'm running have anything to do with blocking jets etc?

Click to expand...

No. Petrol is a good cleaning agent. Blockages are generally due to sediment carried in the fuel. I am not familiar with your carb type but have a lot of experience with classic bike carbs. Pilot jets tend to be very small bore (pin hole diameter) and are easily blocked due to a build up of "varnish" and sediment, especially if left standing with stale fuel for a few months. If you venture into the carb, be careful not to increase the diameter of the jets while cleaning them, they are a precision diameter and can be ruined quite easily. For cleaning my bike pilot jets I have drill bits of the original jet diameter (drill bits are microscopic, about the diameter of a guitar top E string). And I keep a selection of main jets but they are easier to keep clean anyway. Do some research and get a workshop manual.

Ok, just thought I'd ask. i might grab a Haynes sometime too.....

cheers
S3ww

A Haynes manual is at the basic end of the spectrum. Don't waste your time it's not got the details you need. Can someone point the OP to pick up the workshop manual.

Really? Ok, will grab one of those, if someone can point me there, ta

sorry, i'm a newbie

S3ww