1996 P38 DSE Manual. Help Please! Videos included.

Hello,

Originally posted this in the wrong forum section!

Car -
1996 P38 DSE Manual 157K

Problem.
Car seems to start rough cold, and then runs with a weird rhythm. Also a small rattle from the front.

Had the fan belt off. Could feel some play in water pump pulley but non in the crank damper beneath. The car also ran horribly without the belt (even though it was only 30s)

Video of car cold start


car running without belt


The play in the pump


One thing I noticed this morning (when start video was filmed). Was that even though it was around -1c outside. The glow plug light only stayed on around 4-5seconds. For the purpose of the video. I allowed the plugs to heat twice before starting.

some people have mentioned the lines between injectors (which I will check). As well as Fuel Injection Pump and Chain servicing?


Anyway. Any help would be lovely.

it’s worth mentioning. After the car has run for 10min. And is turned on and off again. It starts much more easily and runs smoother?

also as you can hear in the video the majority of noise can be heard when the camera is over the middle of the intake manifold.

cheers
Nial

Check the leak off pipes and the heater plugs for starters,

tomcat59alan said:

Check the leak off pipes and the heater plugs for starters,

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As Alan says, leak off pipes and glow plugs, are getting in via the leak off pipes can produce a rattling sound on start up.

Datatek said:

As Alan says, leak off pipes and glow plugs, are getting in via the leak off pipes can produce a rattling sound on start up.

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Thanks a lot. I’ll give the leak off pipes a check. In terms of checking plugs how’s that done? Or is it easiest to just go with a new set

Nialox said:

Thanks a lot. I’ll give the leak off pipes a check. In terms of checking plugs how’s that done? Or is it easiest to just go with a new set

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As you have to remove the heater plugs to test them you may as well put new ones in. Make sure you use a good make NGK ,Beru search posts by @Grrrrrr for his recommendations.

Change the water pump.

Nialox said:

Thanks a lot. I’ll give the leak off pipes a check. In terms of checking plugs how’s that done? Or is it easiest to just go with a new set

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wammers said:

Change the water pump.

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Okay will do. Thanks so much. I’ve heard you are quite the expert. Did you manage to see the cold start and video of it running without a belt. Would love your input

Nialox said:

Okay will do. Thanks so much. I’ve heard you are quite the expert. Did you manage to see the cold start and video of it running without a belt. Would love your input

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Make sure the new pump has a metal impeller.

tomcat59alan said:

Make sure the new pump has a metal impeller.

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Thanks. I’ve heard of the plastic ones disintegrating. I’ll make sure it does

Nialox said:

Okay will do. Thanks so much. I’ve heard you are quite the expert. Did you manage to see the cold start and video of it running without a belt. Would love your input

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On cold start sounds like a couple of glows are duff and taking a while for those cylinders to chime in.

tomcat59alan said:

As you have to remove the heater plugs to test them you may as well put new ones in. Make sure you use a good make NGK ,Beru search posts by @Grrrrrr for his recommendations.

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The Glow plugs can be tested in situe, pull the wires off one at a time, with a DVM on Ohms, put one probe on the Glow plug connector and the other on the block, it should read almost a short circuit depending on what range the DVM is on, if the reading is open circuit the plug is duff.

If you end up changing the leak of pipes cable tie them on they will last longer as the stuff you get now only seams to last not long at all if you dont
some put heat shrink on the ends.

Datatek said:

The Glow plugs can be tested in situe, pull the wires off one at a time, with a DVM on Ohms, put one probe on the Glow plug connector and the other on the block, it should read almost a short circuit depending on what range the DVM is on, if the reading is open circuit the plug is duff.

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Correct Keith, I prefer the more technical method of taking the plugs out and using a pair of jump leads , if you put a bit of spit on the element and momentarily power the plug. If the spit sizzles its ok, if it doesn't it's fecked.

Stc 3342KS is part number for the metal one.

tomcat59alan said:

Correct Keith, I prefer the more technical method of taking the plugs out and using a pair of jump leads , if you put a bit of spit on the element and momentarily power the plug. If the spit sizzles its ok, if it doesn't it's fecked.

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That’s my kind of diagnostics

Bin the viscous and tap our data for his electric fan mod..

And... While your changing the water pump, check the belts for cracks and bearing noises on all pulleys.
No to "britpart" parts....

tomcat59alan said:

As you have to remove the heater plugs to test them you may as well put new ones in. Make sure you use a good make NGK ,Beru search posts by @Grrrrrr for his recommendations.

Click to expand...

Beru for me, every time. There were 2 listed as possible when I last looked. I put up the part numbers somewhere. I got them from Eurocarparts (no affiliation) for a decent price.

tomcat59alan said:

Make sure the new pump has a metal impeller.

Click to expand...

Nice to see you back. On the mend, I hope?

tomcat59alan said:

Correct Keith, I prefer the more technical method of taking the plugs out and using a pair of jump leads , if you put a bit of spit on the element and momentarily power the plug. If the spit sizzles its ok, if it doesn't it's fecked.

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I'm lazy and plugs can break as they are being removed.

I snapped the plug on cyl1 getting them out don’t think whoever put them in coppasliped threads.
Epoxied it back in one piece but didn’t work for long like that.