Classic 1991 3.9 EFI Auto - Fuel pump relay

My range rover wont start and I think it is the fuel pump power supply (I have taken the pump out and tested it and it runs). Can anyone tell me where the relay is for the pump as I have tried searching and I find different answers.

I have found relays in different locations;- drivers footwell side, under drivers seat at the back, under passenger seat at back, at side of passenger seat and passenger seat footwell side. I will try to upload some images. (Sorry - I have tried to upload images but cant figure it out - I will do a search of how to do it and load some when I understand how to!).

Does anyone know the part number of the relay?

The guy that tested the pump said if I could get a live feed to the pump and start it I could take it for him to have a look at, but how do I connect a live feed? The pump has a 3 pin plug and I know which one of the pins needs a feed - but how do I get a direct feed to this as I presume the other two pins need their connection?

Any help and guidance is much appreciated.

Many thanks in advance.

Mick

Oops - It seams I was loading the images! Please excuse the multiple copies of the drivers footwell relays.

under the drivers seat theres 2 aluminum cased relays the one with brown wires is power supply for efi the other with white/purple wire is fuel pump, if you turn ignition on both should click on then after 4 seconds fuel relay click off unless you start engine,they are 30amp relay iirc

Issue I had with my 3.5EFi was the live wire in the connector at the end of the vehicle loom that plugs into the one from the in-tank pump.
Connecting the pump direct to a battery proved the pump was good.
A digital multimeter test of the loom connector gave battery voltage.
BUT after a bit of puzzling I connected a 12v bulb to the connector live & the other side of the bulb to a good earth.
Nothing.
Pin connected to bulb & pushed through the live wire insulation suggested all was well about 1/4" from the connector.
Stripped it & 30 years of exposure to the elements had corroded the wire to a couple of strands. Fine for the multimeter but not enough to carry the current necessary to light the bulb or run the pump.

Gentlemen, thank you for taking the time to reply, it is appreciated.

James I have looked under the drivers seat and there are two relays which look like one has brown wires going to it. I will have to check them both tomorrow to get a photo of the wires to each as I have taken a photo but another item was obscuring the image. I will post this

Dr Strangeglove said:

. They are both the same, Bosch 12v, 30A, part No 0332 014 112. I did swap these over and tried to start the vehicle - if only one was faulty should this of allowed the pump to work/the vehicle to fire?

Click to expand...

No, swapping them over won't allow it to start because if one is faulty you'll remove power from the fuel pump or from the ECU. Both need power for the engine to run. Pull the relays out and rig up a couple of test leads and put power on them and check for switching. The relays failing is not unusual especially when you consider how old they will be, just replace the relays and provided there is power going to the relays all "should" be well. The only other thing to check if the fuel pump isn't powering up is that the inertia switch (under passenger seat) hasn't been knocked/tripped or otherwise. BTW make sure you buy the correct type of relay with the diode in and two pin 87's not an 87 and an 87a.

Gentlemen, after getting the time to check the relay (l checked both and one was indeed faulty) I ordered a replacement and the vehicle started better than before (but then I had cleaned the plugs and dizzy cap which was overdue).

I would not have known where to start without your help.

Many thanks.

Mick

Hi...put it back together the ways it's supposed to be and see if you have power to the fuel pump when you first turn the key. You should have power for 5-7 seconds. If not it is likely the relay. Check for power to the relay control circuit when key initially turned on. The relay is NOT just a simple ice-cube relay, it MUST be the original configuration.

DeannaNash said:

Hi...put it back together the ways it's supposed to be and see if you have power to the fuel pump when you first turn the key. You should have power for 5-7 seconds. If not it is likely the relay. Check for power to the relay control circuit when key initially turned on. The relay is NOT just a simple ice-cube relay, it MUST be the original configuration.

Click to expand...

Holy thread resurrection

Right before Halloween....
Scary stuff...
Wake the dead..

Hi I have efi3.9 in a 1966 series 2 which now lets down on road without notice.( 6km walk till i got a lift did me all the good !!)
So im going to try your relay renewal as the root of intermittent failures im getting , both identical you sa y part# end 112 , both with 2 87 pins.
Question in a transplant where can i find an inertia switch if its in the circuit .
IF it was in its orignal vehicle you say under seat but i suspect its omitted/bypassed for me but in case its lurking somewhere removing voltage from fuel realy i need to be able to check continuity.
I did have a motorbike battery in cab and the odd time fuel pump voltage disappeared i poered it manually to get home.
Its now too unreliable to be on the road.
Yesterday i braked hard and swerved to avoid a cyclist ( im one of those myself , a
n oncomming car came flying when i went to overtake)
and the power to HP fuel pump was lost .

I have a small volt display on the fuel pump of late as it does let me down.


Adrian