O K guys and gals, whats the secret of getting them at least partly dry inside? I have given up on the carpets and invested in a 5 m roll of rubber matting from Machine Mart for £23. Should be able to make a loadspace mat and full set of fitted mats for a bargain price. Are there any tips to minimise water ingress round the door tops?
110 Swimming Pool
- Thread starter marty.c
- Start date
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discomania
Well-Known Member
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- 6,947
You can get new seals, fit them, then anywhere that doesn't need to open, blast with some silicone (get the stuff for metal)
www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100147&ts=11769&id=87537
Before you seal things up, make sure its dry, and if need be paint some rust converter on, and even give a spray with some paint, so you don't end up trapping moisture and allowing rust to carry on under the seal.
www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100147&ts=11769&id=87537
Before you seal things up, make sure its dry, and if need be paint some rust converter on, and even give a spray with some paint, so you don't end up trapping moisture and allowing rust to carry on under the seal.
davey
New Member
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- Location
- oban, argyll.
stop wading so deep
woods767
Well-Known Member
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- 1,262
Weld up the holes in the bulk head
ok, seriously i've battled leaks on my defender 90 since day 1, brand new.
for the door seals, if they still feel flexible enuff, you might want to poke a tiny hole(s) in them and inject silicon into them, hence puffing them up. do not close the doors till you're sure the silicon has dried. bingo, they don't leak any more.
on the rear tub, you silicon round the entire vehicle where the panel meets the tub. it's because the seal was not fitted properly, or has moved when the body flexes.
This will help you solve most of the leaks.
however, if you have light guards installed by drilling some holes, add a small thin rubber washer where the screw meets the body. it stops water from dripping in. applicable for the rear light guards.
check the seal around the cowl vents. they are a source of water ingress on the bulk head. place a piece of paper in the vents, shut it. wait for it to rain. paper wet = leaking. paper very wet = leaking a lot. if you have no real use for the vents, silicon them shut or change the seals.
the 3 bolts on each side of the bulk head which hold the windshield frame in place. there's a piece of rubber over the cover. you might consider changing that.
for the door seals, if they still feel flexible enuff, you might want to poke a tiny hole(s) in them and inject silicon into them, hence puffing them up. do not close the doors till you're sure the silicon has dried. bingo, they don't leak any more.
on the rear tub, you silicon round the entire vehicle where the panel meets the tub. it's because the seal was not fitted properly, or has moved when the body flexes.
This will help you solve most of the leaks.
however, if you have light guards installed by drilling some holes, add a small thin rubber washer where the screw meets the body. it stops water from dripping in. applicable for the rear light guards.
check the seal around the cowl vents. they are a source of water ingress on the bulk head. place a piece of paper in the vents, shut it. wait for it to rain. paper wet = leaking. paper very wet = leaking a lot. if you have no real use for the vents, silicon them shut or change the seals.
the 3 bolts on each side of the bulk head which hold the windshield frame in place. there's a piece of rubber over the cover. you might consider changing that.