1.8 new h/g

my 1.8 is runnin fine done 53k on original hg never had a prob with anythink
but im a little woried about the reports of other les fortunate owners & wondered if i should replace the h/g for one of the new ones as a matter of prevention as i hear in knackers the engine when it goes
what would be the cost to buy & fit one would it be worth it or see what happens as my hg might never go

if it aint broke - dont fix it

i thought that but if it does go is that a new engine
if so would it not be beast to do it b4 hand

RWSHAFTO said:

i thought that but if it does go is that a new engine
if so would it not be beast to do it b4 hand

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No . . .listen ta flippy dont touch it,dont listen to all the sob storys. . . .

Dont listen to Minge - the sob stories are true - but that dont mean it will happen to you do - if it does - then deal with it. Theres no need to stick ya head in the sand tho - Minge is lucky - he's got an intergalactic rocket ship as back-up.
My own opinion, see other threads, is to replace with a 220 Turbo lump, when necessary - but that aint gonna be easy.

You could fit the new LandRover PRT (thermostat) + the larger expansion tank as well as giving the rad/engine a good flush & refill with the correct anti-freeze.

Otherwise let the sleeping sleep.

I have just replaced the hg on my 1.8 after 54k miles.

The parts are not overly expensive but if you leave it into a garage the labour costs are high.

I reckon the stat caused it, as when I checked it the opening temp was 95oC not 88oC as it should have been.

Fit the new thermostat will help ease the thermal load and you can get an early warning system for the coolant system, recommended by the folks on MG-Rover.org - although careful watch on the temp gauge whilst driving should be considered important and in my opinion should be ckecked every time you check your speedo.

My engine was ok and I drove for hundreds of miles with hgf. This was only a minor leak with gunk in the coolant system and coolant loss. Temp was normal so no warping of the cylinder head or block. The break in the seal appeared to be on the LH side of cylinder 1.

I fitted the new LR gasket but didnt bother with the new oil rail. Mixed views on the oil rail but me thinks it was just a smoke screen by Ford to try and show they had done their research.

Yes the K-series has a few design flaws but so do other engines, if carefully maintained and checked should give no problems

LR1796 said:

you can get an early warning system for the coolant system, recommended by the folks on MG-Rover.org

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can you put a link to it on here please, LR

Yes no probs.

Link is below

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1464358&highlight=early+warning+system#post1464358

Link recommends the coolant loss alarm in post 5 of the thread. This is from Brown and Gammons (MG specialists) no reason why it cant be fitted to a freelander. As the guys have pointed out it is not a fail safe means but should give more peace of mind.

I recently bought a hydrolastic pump from B&G for another car and was very impressed with the service.

Another current thread from MG-Rover.org for anyone concerned about the K-series hgf.

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1629338#post1629338

I fitted the new external thermostat and hose kit, easy job 40 min. seems to be running cooler now. hope this saves me from the dreded HGF.

Dave

LR1796 said:

Yes no probs.

Link is below

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1464358&highlight=early+warning+system#post1464358

Link recommends the coolant loss alarm in post 5 of the thread. This is from Brown and Gammons (MG specialists) no reason why it cant be fitted to a freelander. As the guys have pointed out it is not a fail safe means but should give more peace of mind.

I recently bought a hydrolastic pump from B&G for another car and was very impressed with the service.

Click to expand...

Not sure it will fit because of different coolant tank - any ideas?

direct link to B&G is http://www.ukmgparts.com/index1.html?o=11591856461234

it seems very complicated to me - all you need is a float (from RS) to fit into tank and a warning buzzer/light inside the cab. A little bit of wiring and hey presto!

New bottom rail - have heard the smoke screen story but also that stronger to take the new higher torque head bolts. I am still using the latest Rover/Payen gaskets but time will tell. If only we could time warp + 5 years the truth would be known.