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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Oct
31
Hi all,
At this link, you will find various Range rover information and downloads. I take no responsibility for anything contained here and will only host it as long as nobody tells me I am contravening any copyright. Any hint that I might get in trouble and the link will be disabled immediately.
I have plenty of space in this Dropbox so I'm happy to add to and build up a library of stuff here but bear in mind, I work away a lot and I might not be able to add things immediately.
here is the link for you to download whatever you want.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xrk617wn5sm572m/AAAdkEVr0fPonx8GpTM5AXi4a?dl=0

Admins, is there any chance we can put this in the tech archive so it's easy for everyone to find?
Oct
10
So, one of the minor issues with the new aquisition is the passanger door internal release handle doesn't work, so time for an investigation - also, there was a thread recently with a member asking how to remove the door card, so I thought I give a bit a How To to go with it!

First remove the screw in the door pull rear plate and then slide the plate over the handle.

Next, carefully pop the tweeter cover from the front quarter of the door, then unplug the tweeter wiring by pressing in the little locking tab and pop apart.
002.jpg

Unscrew the screw hidden under the tweeter
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Unscrew the two screws from under the door pull
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Next, gently pop the door card off the poppers that holds it to the door, so may stay on the door, some on the card and some may even fall on the floor!
005.jpg

Lift the door card up to clear the sill locking button and then off the door, remove the Mid range speaker wire before you move the door card too far!!
006.jpg

Here is the internal door skin, you can see a couple of the blue poppers are still in the door, remove these and re-fix to the red clips on the door card before reattaching the door card.
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Here is the removed door card front side
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And the reverse side - note the missing blue poppers where the red clips are!
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Refit is the reverse, take care to line up the blue poppers with the receiving holes in the door skin then push firmly home.

Replacing the tweeter cover, requires the lower tab on the tweeter cover to be inserted behind the door card, and then the cover to be pushed home against the door.

Boom, done!
Jul
06
Courtesy of ovalandrover and martyuk

For reference, VIN XA410482 was the GEMS/Thor changeover VIN...

Superceded part numbers seem to be backward compatible (i.e. a JFC102550 unit will work on anything all the way back to AWR1012 vehicles with the AC/front screen/front heated seats options)... but they're not forward compatible, at least pre/post XA411503 which is where the wiring modification was done to have the compressor relay in the fuse box, like the Thor models had as standard.

The general rule of thumb is that if it's an AWR1012/5051 then it will work OK in the older versions that didn't have the updated wiring, as it monitors the compressor output feed for a load, and will throw an error if it doesn't detect enough of a load (i.e. just driving a relay coil), so it isn't suitable for the later vehicles, and will throw the chequebook fault all the time. A JFCxxxxxx unit will run the later vehicles with the wiring upgrade, and relay in the fuse box. they will also run the earlier versions, as it looks like they kept the MOSFET that drives the compressor clutch directly in the earlier models (so it's capable of handling the current) but just wrote out of the firmware to throw a fault if it didn't detect enough load - so it wouldn't throw a wobbly when just turning on a relay.

The JFC... units will run the older ones because they kept the MOSFET, so they are capable of driving the compressor clutch without burning out or anything silly like that
Jun
23
I removed the block complete in it's housing...removed air pump and started to undo valve block from plastic housing...

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Undo the blue hose from valve block...

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Working side....

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Undo solenoid covers from valves....

[​IMG]

Meant to say, one job was to check the dessicant ....

If it was damp, wet or powdery it's time for a change...this is perfect :)

[​IMG]

Next job, remove valve block from plastic housing and lay on clean work surface...undo drive control pack & note which way the brackets go...

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Below is the other bracket, photo taken to recall which way round it goes...

[​IMG]

Ok, covers off...

[​IMG]

I decided to mark each solenoid cover so I could replace them in the right order...imagine the fun if you mixed them up :p

[​IMG]

Off.....next....

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Naked!

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Then I removed the valves and was left with some "O" rings...remove these and wipe the block with a clean soft cloth. I used a dry tea towel....
Jun
06
A definitive answer from the Dept for Transport, thanks to 300bhp/ton

For adults in the front and rear, seat belts must be used if available.

For children:-

in the front: all those up to 135cms in height (or 12 years or over, whichever comes first) must use the correct child seat/booster for their weight with no exceptions. If over 135cm or 12 years and above, they are treated for the purposes of this legislation as adults;

in the rear: where seat belts are fitted, than the same rules as for front seats apply but there are a few exceptions. One of those says that if belts are not fitted in the rear, then those 3 years and above may travel unrestrained. However, those under 3 years cannot travel – they must always use the correct baby/child seat for their weight in the front or rear.

Beware of sideways facing seats: there is no legal requirement for seat belts to be fitted in sideways facing seats – in an impact, anyone using a belt in a sideways facing seat is at increased risk of serious injury. But if seat belts are installed then they must be used by adults.

Please note especially that where seat belts are fitted, children who are legally required to use baby/child seats/boosters cannot travel in sideways facing seats because baby/child seats/boosters legally cannot be used in sideways facing seats. This does not mean that children may use an adult belt instead in these seats – it means that they cannot travel at all in sideways facing seats where belts are fitted. That may have an effect on carrying capacity. If extra seat belts are installed in the rear in order to carry children, they should be installed on forward or rearward facing seats – baby/child seats/boosters can be used in forward and rearward facing seats.

Nothing in seat belt wearing legislation prevents the carrying of adults in seats that do not have seat belts installed – even if other seats in the rear have belts fitted. It goes without saying however those seats with seat...
Jun
06
A definitive answer from the Dept for Transport, thanks to 300bhp/ton

For adults in the front and rear, seat belts must be used if available.

For children:-

in the front: all those up to 135cms in height (or 12 years or over, whichever comes first) must use the correct child seat/booster for their weight with no exceptions. If over 135cm or 12 years and above, they are treated for the purposes of this legislation as adults;

in the rear: where seat belts are fitted, than the same rules as for front seats apply but there are a few exceptions. One of those says that if belts are not fitted in the rear, then those 3 years and above may travel unrestrained. However, those under 3 years cannot travel – they must always use the correct baby/child seat for their weight in the front or rear.

Beware of sideways facing seats: there is no legal requirement for seat belts to be fitted in sideways facing seats – in an impact, anyone using a belt in a sideways facing seat is at increased risk of serious injury. But if seat belts are installed then they must be used by adults.

Please note especially that where seat belts are fitted, children who are legally required to use baby/child seats/boosters cannot travel in sideways facing seats because baby/child seats/boosters legally cannot be used in sideways facing seats. This does not mean that children may use an adult belt instead in these seats – it means that they cannot travel at all in sideways facing seats where belts are fitted. That may have an effect on carrying capacity. If extra seat belts are installed in the rear in order to carry children, they should be installed on forward or rearward facing seats – baby/child seats/boosters can be used in forward and rearward facing seats.

Nothing in seat belt wearing legislation prevents the carrying of adults in seats that do not have seat belts installed – even if other seats in the rear have belts fitted. It goes without saying however those seats with seat...
Feb
08
So, following on from my previous thread about timing the 300Tdi FIP (found here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/it-should-be-simple-300tdi-fip-timing.311147/ )

I took the day off today to change the timing belt, crank sprocket, idler and tensioner. It would also give me a chance to reset the FIP timing.

As could be seen from the previous thread, when I did a recon view inside the timing cover, the crank sprocket was slowly munching the woodruff keys (typical when muppets don't torque the crank bolt up properly!) so that all needed to be addressed to.

So with no more gilding the lilly and further ado, lets get to it!

First is to remove the viscous fan unit (mine doesn't have one - but if yours does, you'll have to remove it! - remeber it is a lefthand thread)

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While the drive belt is on, loosen the idler pulley nuts using a 10mm socket

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Using a 15mm socket or spanner, rotate the belt tensioner up and away so the belt can be removed from the pulleys

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Continue to remove the ldler pulley

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When I did our 200Tdi powered Ninety Truck Cab ( How to here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ange-and-cylinder-head-refresh-how-to.282586/ ), I made a pulley holding tool - the 200Tdi has a deep dish to the crank pulley hence why it is so tall, for the 300Tdi, it is a little too tall but it does the job. I'll post the dimensions for this tool at the end (when I find them!)

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Using the longer bolts from the Timing Kit - relatively in-expensive from the bay of E

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Bolt the pulley...
Feb
07
***CANCELLED***

lz13top.jpg

The great gathering of the clan will take place from Friday 23rd to Sunday 25th June

in the beautiful Leicestershire countryside.

A weekend of family fun set in the grounds of Stanford Hall to celebrate 13 years of LandyZone.
stanford_hall.png


Where is this amazing Stanford Hall?

Why it's in STANFORD HALL, LUTTERWORTH, LEICESTERSHIRE, LE17 6DH.
(click on the map to be sent to google)
Stanford Hall   Google Maps.png
What will be we be doing?
We will have a large marquee with a licensed bar from Friday evening through the weekend.
That's two lagers and two CAMRA award winning real ales on tap.

Guided green laning trips on Saturday and Sunday graded for suitability of all Land Rovers.

Anything else?
Jeez, you lot are demanding! Ok, ok how about..
  • Events
  • Competitions
  • Auctions
  • Raffles
OVER.THE.ENTIRE.WEEKEND

SOLD! It looks amazing! What do I need to bring?

Well, we've got the basics covered.,

Hot food will be available for sale throughout from Friday through to Sunday morning.

Excellent quality toilets exclusively for the use of LandyZone

The site is pet friendly, dogs should be kept on leads in the main event area but there are large woods adjacent to the site that we have access to for dog walking/running.

How much?

Children are very welcome and have free entry.

Tickets are available here.... https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/landyzone-13-2017-tickets-31494050553
Cost is £50 (+handling fee) per vehicle...
Nov
07
Afternoon all

As i received the attached instruction from the guys that supplied my parts thought be good idea to upload the TSB and instructions i received so that others can benefit

Help ya selves

Phil
Apr
08
OK, so there are a lot of posts on tailgates not opening and a lot of theories around the method to open them. I had one of these troublesome doors so thought I would get to the bottom of the problem.

First thing to do is get into the load space which means climbing in there. Now pull the door trim off by pulling from the top. There are 4 screws at the bottom which may be inaccessible until the door is open.

Once off inside the door you will see a plug on the bottom of the lock assembly, remove this by pushing the locking mechanism in and pulling down.
[GALLERY=] [/GALLERY]
Now armed with a voltmeter set to read 12v connect it to the connections in the plug, bits of wire may help here. Then you will need to go round to the door handle outside but still be able to see the voltmeter reading. Operating the handle you should see a momentary 12v appear and then go back to 0v. If you do the wiring to the latch is OK, if not then you will need to find the fault elsewhere.

To get the latch assembly out you need to get the door open but the pic below shows one screw, circled in red, you need to remove first. Also remove the 2 plugs.
[GALLERY=] screw.png [/GALLERY]
This pic shows the other side of the assembly.
[GALLERY=] actuator.png [/GALLERY]
With the screw removed what you need to do is pull the plastic cover, arrowed in red, up far enough to be able to pull the lever circled down and the door should open. It is fairly brutal but the only way! Beware if your window won’t go down as it will catch on the surround, luckily for me I could lower the window.

Once the door is open you can undo the 4 screws, 2 cross head and 2 TORX, the latch assembly should come out now, but be aware the cables are on a clip going over the top of the assembly but the clip can be released with a pair of pliers through the top hole in the door.

With the assembly out detach the solenoid from the latch by twisting the arm out.

You...