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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Oct
15
"I was kindly directed by Saint as to the ability to display hidden information for the car. There are a number of guides on the web but I thought I would write something with formatting and images" ​

BMW Engined 2002-2005 Hidden Menus / Functions
Instrument cluster menus
The first set of hidden menus are displayed on the LCD (contained within the instrument cluster) below the rev counter and speedometer. ​
They menus are by default locked and initially (and after battery disconnection) you have to unlock them. ​
This is achieved by pressing the buttons on the instrument cluster (one of them is the one you use to reset the mile/km counter)​
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So, how to unlock the menus!​

  • Turn the Ignition key to 'off'.​
  • Press and hold the right button (as shown above) and turn the ignition key to the first position​
  • You will first see "Check Control OK", some seconds later you will see "Test Nr.01"
    Push the left button to see the car's identification number. Add the 5 right numbers (not 6) together and write down that number, you will need it for unlocking all the functions. For example: ​
A123457 will lead to 2+3+4+5+7 = 21 (note 1 is not included in the sum)​

  • Push the right button until you see "Test Nr.19"​
  • Push left button until you see the number that is equal to the one you calculated above​
  • Push right button again​
The menus are now unlocked:​

  • Turn the Ignition key to 'off'.​
  • Press and hold the right button and turn the ignition key to the first...​
Oct
04
Hokay, I want to get this out of the way so here is what I did, hope someone finds it helpful.

First the cleared space as already described.

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Here we have the old heater box, bilge bower ,Landy fan then Citroen one.
[​IMG][/url]stage2 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

The Landy fan on the left is held on with a circlip, the other one seems to be a push fit

[​IMG][/url]stage3 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

All the blowers have nearly the same diameters as the air intake moulding so there were plenty of options.

[​IMG][/url]stage 4 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

The bilge fan fits into the intake moulding but the assembly is too long so I cut a bit of the moulding

[​IMG][/url]stage 5 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

Stuck the bilge blower into the heater box and did a test run with it connected to a spare battery, it nearly blew the back door off:D

[​IMG][/url]stage6 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

You can see where it sits under the wing

[​IMG][/url]stage 7 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

All done and with washer bottle etc fitted you can't even see it

[​IMG][/url]stage8 by...
Jul
15
had issue bleeding my clutch, I tried reverse bleeding, power bleeding, vacuum bleeding etc etc as well as a few other known methods.

I decided to make a remote bleeder.
You will need:

2 x 3/8 unf 24tpi make brake pipe nuts
1 x 3/8 unf joiner
1 x length 3/16 copper pipe
1 x bleed nipple

cut pipe to length required and put one nut on before flaring the end with your fav brake flare tool.
fit this to the joiner and screw in bleed nipple to other side if joiner:

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do same the other end:

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you'll end up with this:

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fit one end to your slave cylinder:

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and other end to bulkhead:...
Jun
25
I'm putting this ere so I can link to it.

This post provides links to download the rave disk for free. Free as in you don't pay for it. There are a number of people selling the same free rave disk on e.bay. Don't be fooled by their advertising. They're charging you for the same information you get here for free.

There's a number of rave disks available from the links below which cover the repair of Land Rover products.
These are free to download.

It looks like www.myrangerover.co.uk is now back up and running so the link below points to that site where the downloads are available for free.

Click on the links to open the download screen - slow to open but they do work:

http://www.myrangerover.co.uk/rave-workshop-manual/

rave01 = 624meg
rave02 = 476meg
rave03 = 432meg

rave01 = Discovery 2, Freelander 1 (2001 onwards) 1.8 / Td4 / v6

rave02 = Range Rover P38 and L322, Defender (up to 2002) 200/300tdi and v8

rave03 = Range Rover classic tdi/v8, Discovery 1995 onwards mpi/Tdi/v8, Freelander 1.8/L series

The rave disks download as .iso image files. After downloading them you need to use 7-zip or winzip type programs to open them, to allow you to copy the rave folder out of the .iso image file.

WinZip users:
Download the .iso file to yer computer. Right click the .iso file on yer computer and select "extract to here" and it will create a new folder with the contents of the .iso file in it. Go into the new folder and double click the rave.exe application file to start using rave.

7zip users:
Download the .iso file to yer computer. Right click the .iso file on yer computer and select "extract here" and it will create a new folder with the contents of the .iso file in it. Go into the new folder and double click the rave.exe application file to start using rave....
May
26
Updated 29 July 2015.

This write up shows the design and measurements used to make my HippoRamps. The original ramp section was shorter. This guide shows the betterer longer design with a shallower slope. It was a bit hit and miss driving up the ramps if the tyres were damp on the original shorter version. My Freelander can now drive up all 4 ramps at the same time. It can also do it in front wheel drive only. You can make taller HippoRamps but be careful of the sill height. Taller HippoRamps will fit under the front bumper ok but not the sill where you place the rear HippoRamp for the rear wheel to drive up.

HippoRamps are made from wood. Each HippoRamp is made of 1 base and 1 ramp. The ramp sits in front of the base and is not connected to the base. I remove the ramp when my Freelander is on the base to stop the ramps being stolen.

Warning: Be careful when lifting vehicles. Always chock the vehicle wheels after driving onto the HippoRamps and use the handbrake. If you intend to release the handbrake don't rely on the transmission to hold the car on the ramps. If the gearbox is in neutral your vehicle could roll forward/backward. If any of the wheels are lifted in the air make sure the other wheels are chocked. Failure to so do could allow the vehicle to move forward/backward. If you drive onto your HippoRamps and your vehicle is not central or unsafe in anyway, drive off them, realign the HippoRamps/vehicle and try again.

Video: HippoRamps

Warning: You need to chock the front wheels to stop your Freelander rolling. Don't rely on the handbrake on its own.

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HippoRamps are made out of lengths of wood cut as below. I used Sawn Kiln Dried Timber as it was cheap and suitable for the job. It has a square edge to work with. At the time of writing this guide the wood was...
May
14
Following on from my previous thread ..... http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/possible-headlamp-ballast-ecu-fault-256103.html

Discotigger kindly pointed out that it would be prudent to ensure all the shattered glass is removed from the headlamp assembly so it doesn’t jam the shutter that is fitted on the HID/Xenon system.

So in true Saint.V8 fashion, I thought I’d do a mini ‘How To’ in removing the headlamp assembly and removing the front glass and interior finisher.

REMEMBER: The HID/Xenon system uses very high voltages to strike the arc in the lamp – as such DO NOT work on the system with the ignition and/or lamps switched on....turn it all off and wait a few minutes to allow for any voltages to dissipate first.

My L322 has a full wrap-around bullbar fitted so I detail the removal of this too as it also has to be removed before getting the headlamp unit out!

The Bullbar is bolted through the front bumper and also via brackets on the side which are fitted behind the indicator unit.

[​IMG]


First...
May
05
Updated 08 April 2015

This is the first draft of my coolant level sensor how to guide. It will have additional information added soon (and probably some minor corrections).

This how to guide shows the steps I took to fit a level sensor to my Freelander's coolant reservoir. I got the idea from the mad hat man. He's done the same mod on many other vehicles.

A level sensor is switch controlled by a lever which floats. As the lever moves it opens or closes a switch. The theory is that when the coolant level drops, the lever will drop and the switch will open. When the coolant level is ok the lever is pushed up which closes the switch. My level sensor illuminates an LED on the dash when the level is ok. The LED switches off when the coolant level falls. You could also put a buzzer in the circuit too, wired to make a sound when the coolant level is low. I haven't done this on my Freelander. My LED circuit is only powered when the key is turned. The following guide will show you how I fitted my set-up.

Video = Freelander 1 Coolant Level Sensor - YouTube

Coolant reservoir lever switch:

[​IMG]

Warning LED on my dash:

[​IMG]

Required parts are:
LED
LED holder
Thin wire
Heat shrink
Level sensor
Fuse
Fuse holder
Chock block
Rubber washers

I used this level sensor as it can go to 110 degrees.

Level sensor: Liquid Level Sensor Horizontal Nylon | Rapid Online

Technical spec: http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/61-1362.pdf

A good test to check your coolant system is pressurised is to squeeze one of the larger coolant pipes at the top of the radiator when it's cold. Compare this to when the...
Apr
13
First an acknowledgement. All this information is out there, I just don't like the way it is presented. Here I will give you my thoughts and procedure for modifying, tuning and monitoring your 200tdi engine.

More fuel = More power, but it also mean more pressure and heat. The richer the mixture burning in your cylinder the more heat is created and the more danger to your engine. Correct tuning is finding the most fuel you can inject without burning too rich, and distributing the new power throughout the rpm range.
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First thing's first. I would not recommend attempting to tune your engine without both a Boost gauge and an exhaust gas temperature (EGT) gauge. If you are just relying on smoke to guesstimate your tune job I feel you are asking for trouble. Boost max ~1bar (~15psi) Not really a hard max, but I don't feel the injection pump is capable of delivering enough fuel for there to be reason to go any higher. EGT max 720C (1328F), this is a hard max. Don't touch it. If you tune to go to max one day an overly steep hill or a heavy load will have you going beyond it, and then there is a very real chance a piston will melt.
[​IMG]
Once you have your gauges on it's time to add a little more air. To do this we're going to adjust the turbo wastegate. This is pretty simple. The wastegate has a threaded adjustable rod. Simply break the lock nut free on the rod, remove the retainer clip holding the rod to the valve on the hot side of the turbo, slide it off and then turning it to shorten the rod. You may well have enough room to make several turns. I recommend about 4-5 full turns. Snug the locking nut. then using pliers and some strength manually extend the rod back to return it to...
Feb
26
I have tried to source some info on fitting powerfold mirrors to my early FL1. (99 L series). I have read that its easy, but you should remove the gasket before you fit them. I did this when i fitted the RH mirror here the other day, but i found a leak so took a new look at it today and got them both fitted with the gasket in place.

After dismantling your old mirror you have to bore out two holes in the door skin.

[​IMG]

[​IMG]

When this is done you have to cut where the bolt fastens at the mirror about 3mm over the gasket.

[​IMG]

Very easy job indeed. Here im done and just need to get the wiring done.

[​IMG]

[​IMG]