1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

Updated 29 July 2015.

This write up shows the design and measurements used to make my HippoRamps. The original ramp section was shorter. This guide shows the betterer longer design with a shallower slope. It was a bit hit and miss driving up the ramps if the tyres were damp on the original shorter version. My Freelander can now drive up all 4 ramps at the same time. It can also do it in front wheel drive only. You can make taller HippoRamps but be careful of the sill height. Taller HippoRamps will fit under the front bumper ok but not the sill where you place the rear HippoRamp for the rear wheel to drive up.

HippoRamps are made from wood. Each HippoRamp is made of 1 base and 1 ramp. The ramp sits in front of the base and is not connected to the base. I remove the ramp when my Freelander is on the base to stop the ramps being stolen.

Warning: Be careful when lifting vehicles. Always chock the vehicle wheels after driving onto the HippoRamps and use the handbrake. If you intend to release the handbrake don't rely on the transmission to hold the car on the ramps. If the gearbox is in neutral your vehicle could roll forward/backward. If any of the wheels are lifted in the air make sure the other wheels are chocked. Failure to so do could allow the vehicle to move forward/backward. If you drive onto your HippoRamps and your vehicle is not central or unsafe in anyway, drive off them, realign the HippoRamps/vehicle and try again.

Video: HippoRamps

Warning: You need to chock the front wheels to stop your Freelander rolling. Don't rely on the handbrake on its own.


HippoRamps are made out of lengths of wood cut as below. I used Sawn Kiln Dried Timber as it was cheap and suitable for the job. It has a square edge to work with. At the time of writing this guide the wood was...
Following on from my previous thread ..... http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/possible-headlamp-ballast-ecu-fault-256103.html

Discotigger kindly pointed out that it would be prudent to ensure all the shattered glass is removed from the headlamp assembly so it doesn’t jam the shutter that is fitted on the HID/Xenon system.

So in true Saint.V8 fashion, I thought I’d do a mini ‘How To’ in removing the headlamp assembly and removing the front glass and interior finisher.

REMEMBER: The HID/Xenon system uses very high voltages to strike the arc in the lamp – as such DO NOT work on the system with the ignition and/or lamps switched on....turn it all off and wait a few minutes to allow for any voltages to dissipate first.

My L322 has a full wrap-around bullbar fitted so I detail the removal of this too as it also has to be removed before getting the headlamp unit out!

The Bullbar is bolted through the front bumper and also via brackets on the side which are fitted behind the indicator unit.


Updated 08 April 2015

This is the first draft of my coolant level sensor how to guide. It will have additional information added soon (and probably some minor corrections).

This how to guide shows the steps I took to fit a level sensor to my Freelander's coolant reservoir. I got the idea from the mad hat man. He's done the same mod on many other vehicles.

A level sensor is switch controlled by a lever which floats. As the lever moves it opens or closes a switch. The theory is that when the coolant level drops, the lever will drop and the switch will open. When the coolant level is ok the lever is pushed up which closes the switch. My level sensor illuminates an LED on the dash when the level is ok. The LED switches off when the coolant level falls. You could also put a buzzer in the circuit too, wired to make a sound when the coolant level is low. I haven't done this on my Freelander. My LED circuit is only powered when the key is turned. The following guide will show you how I fitted my set-up.

Video = Freelander 1 Coolant Level Sensor - YouTube

Coolant reservoir lever switch:


Warning LED on my dash:


Required parts are:
LED holder
Thin wire
Heat shrink
Level sensor
Fuse holder
Chock block
Rubber washers

I used this level sensor as it can go to 110 degrees.

Level sensor: Liquid Level Sensor Horizontal Nylon | Rapid Online

Technical spec: http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/61-1362.pdf

A good test to check your coolant system is pressurised is to squeeze one of the larger coolant pipes at the top of the radiator when it's cold. Compare this to when the...
First an acknowledgement. All this information is out there, I just don't like the way it is presented. Here I will give you my thoughts and procedure for modifying, tuning and monitoring your 200tdi engine.

More fuel = More power, but it also mean more pressure and heat. The richer the mixture burning in your cylinder the more heat is created and the more danger to your engine. Correct tuning is finding the most fuel you can inject without burning too rich, and distributing the new power throughout the rpm range.
First thing's first. I would not recommend attempting to tune your engine without both a Boost gauge and an exhaust gas temperature (EGT) gauge. If you are just relying on smoke to guesstimate your tune job I feel you are asking for trouble. Boost max ~1bar (~15psi) Not really a hard max, but I don't feel the injection pump is capable of delivering enough fuel for there to be reason to go any higher. EGT max 720C (1328F), this is a hard max. Don't touch it. If you tune to go to max one day an overly steep hill or a heavy load will have you going beyond it, and then there is a very real chance a piston will melt.
Once you have your gauges on it's time to add a little more air. To do this we're going to adjust the turbo wastegate. This is pretty simple. The wastegate has a threaded adjustable rod. Simply break the lock nut free on the rod, remove the retainer clip holding the rod to the valve on the hot side of the turbo, slide it off and then turning it to shorten the rod. You may well have enough room to make several turns. I recommend about 4-5 full turns. Snug the locking nut. then using pliers and some strength manually extend the rod back to return it to...
I have tried to source some info on fitting powerfold mirrors to my early FL1. (99 L series). I have read that its easy, but you should remove the gasket before you fit them. I did this when i fitted the RH mirror here the other day, but i found a leak so took a new look at it today and got them both fitted with the gasket in place.

After dismantling your old mirror you have to bore out two holes in the door skin.



When this is done you have to cut where the bolt fastens at the mirror about 3mm over the gasket.


Very easy job indeed. Here im done and just need to get the wiring done.


Tailgate window repair.

Either follow the whole [How to] to repair a regulator or skip the middle section if you are replacing with a complete assembly.

You will need, Philips screwdriver, 10mm & 13mm sockets, ratchet and an extension. Long nose pliers, T25 torx(if you are repairing the regulator), new tailgate membrane or gaffer tape.

First off open the tailgate! Under the bottom of the trim there should be 4 screws,


Remove these and them the tailgate trim can be pulled off starting in the corner where the screws were. The top edge is held on by u shaped clips -the trim lifts vertically off these when the rest of the clips are free.


Remove the tailgate waterproof membrane,

Now to start the strip down...


Loosen the 2 bolts securing the window clamps,


Unplug and unclip the heated rear window wires.
Then carefully lift the glass up out of the door and place in a safe place (away from dogs, children, clumsy mates etc.)

Remove the two clamp bolts fully and retrieve the clamps and plastic bits from inside the door bottom.


Loosen but don't remove the three bolts in the centre of the door retaining the window motor....
Cowasaki's electrical tutorial part 1

Part 2 of the tutorial has now been written with specific instructions for tests and checks.....


Having seen numerous simple questions on car electrics/electrical systems I thought I would write a simple tutorial. I will create a few more on more specialised topics later if people find them useful. My way of thanking people for all the help they have given me over the past 6 months since I got my first landy.....

Vehicle electrics:

1 - The basics

Electrical systems are basically simple if broken down into small manageable parts. A basic electrical circuit consists of a power source (shown here as the battery), come connections (the wires shown here as green lines) and a load (shown here as a bulb). This is basically the simplest circuit.


As you can see from the above diagram the bulb is connected to the battery by two wires which creates the circuit. One side of the battery is shown as positive whilst the other is shown as negative. For our means, working on cars, there are several different ways of referring to these sides of the battery:

Positive = 12v, live, battery
Negative = 0v, ground, chassis, body

Bulbs are examples of devices that require being in the circuit but do not require being in the circuit in any particular direction so will also work if the positive and negative are swapped around as long as there is still a circuit. Other examples of components that can be wired either way with the same effect would be a heater element, relay or a buzzer.

Other components can be directional in that their operation reverses if the connections are reversed or that they only work one way or the other. Two components...
Please note this is for battery replacement only i.e. the buttons don't work but the car will start.

If your fob will not start the car it needs more than a new battery.

Also a dead fob will need at least 15 minutes recharge time.

I don't know how you can know if your good at taking stuff apart but hopefully you'll be able to assess how good the outcome will be of your own attempts seeing what was involved.

This is the battery you need :rolleyes: PANASONIC - VL2330-1HFE - BATTERY, RECH LITHIUM 2330


I'd bought this one before opening the fob :doh: So get the right one It'll be easier ;) Still the same number though so beware


Ok first up a list of tools I used
Left to right Screwdriver small flat blade, long nosed pliers, solder sucker, solder, soldering iron, side cutters, spare pair of hands hobby vice, super glue


Press the black tag and remove the key


With the buttons facing you insert long nosed pliers into to key recess...
First this is the bulb you need. Halfrauds do em


Next disconnect the battery and remove the trim, just pull it off carefully


You may find at least one of the plastic lugs that hold it in place will be left behind. They can be fetched out with a flat bladed screwdriver if you don't have a trim removal tool and your careful.


Put any lugs that got left behind back on the panel, they slide on easily.


Next using a flat bladed screwdriver you will need to push two white tabs to release the light hopefully the pictures will help, they are hard to see.


Sorry bit blurred tried to get in close.... If you half close the tailgate from the...