1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

The air compressor gets worn over time and can result in Air Suspension Inactive dash warnings. Diagnostics will are best to really diagnose the issue (unless leaks can be heard) but a worn compressor is not an uncommon problem.

When the output is low it can overheat and the ECU will shut it down, also if the output is really pathetic the air cylinder will take too long to fill and another error will result - as said diagnostics will be required. Checking output however is relatively easy:

Checking output

Output can be checked by removing the output line from the compressor which is held by a collet.


The second video below titled "Changing the compressor" below shows the removal of the output line in more detail.

The air compressor now needs to be forced on by shorting out the wires the are normally controlled by a relay. The relay behind the right hand side panel in the boot / trunk:


The relay to remove is the black one with the diagonal molded plastic line on it


Remove the replay and short out the two large spade connectors:




Once the compressor kicks in if you can easily hold your finger over the outlet then the output is not up to scratch.

Replacing the piston ring - wabco compressors: 2005-2005 L322 Only

If output is low then the first thing to do is to try replacing the piston ring:...
A clear video showing how to put the bonnet in service mode and remove the battery

Permission to link to this video as a 'how to' has been given by Simon Jefferson of PowerfulUK


1) You don't need two people to put the bonnet in service mode.

  • Remove both the clips holding the gas struts (don't actually take the struts off). While removing the clip for the second strut support the bonnet in case the bonnet does close (it never has for me).
  • Now take off one gas strut and slip the end under the acoustic padding stuck to the bonnet
  • Walk around to the other strut while keeping the bonnet open
  • Once round the other side, move the bonnet up to the max height, take the final strut off and use the service clips as directed in the video
2) The battery is stupidly heavy - tie any loose cables out the way before removing - mine always seem to get in the way.

3) Remove the earth (-black) lead first before the live (+red), prevents shorts. Fit the cables back in the reverse order - 10mm socket for the battery clamps.

4) After reconnecting the battery you will get a dash warning (yellow triangle) - with the engine started, turn the steering lock to lock and the warning will go.
"I was kindly directed by Saint as to the ability to display hidden information for the car. There are a number of guides on the web but I thought I would write something with formatting and images" ​

BMW Engined 2002-2005 Hidden Menus / Functions
Instrument cluster menus
The first set of hidden menus are displayed on the LCD (contained within the instrument cluster) below the rev counter and speedometer. ​
They menus are by default locked and initially (and after battery disconnection) you have to unlock them. ​
This is achieved by pressing the buttons on the instrument cluster (one of them is the one you use to reset the mile/km counter)​
So, how to unlock the menus!​

  • Turn the Ignition key to 'off'.​
  • Press and hold the right button (as shown above) and turn the ignition key to the first position​
  • You will first see "Check Control OK", some seconds later you will see "Test Nr.01"
    Push the left button to see the car's identification number. Add the 5 right numbers (not 6) together and write down that number, you will need it for unlocking all the functions. For example: ​
A123457 will lead to 2+3+4+5+7 = 21 (note 1 is not included in the sum)​

  • Push the right button until you see "Test Nr.19"​
  • Push left button until you see the number that is equal to the one you calculated above​
  • Push right button again​
The menus are now unlocked:​

  • Turn the Ignition key to 'off'.​
  • Press and hold the right button and turn the ignition key to the first...​
Hokay, I want to get this out of the way so here is what I did, hope someone finds it helpful.

First the cleared space as already described.


Here we have the old heater box, bilge bower ,Landy fan then Citroen one.
[​IMG][/url]stage2 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

The Landy fan on the left is held on with a circlip, the other one seems to be a push fit

[​IMG][/url]stage3 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

All the blowers have nearly the same diameters as the air intake moulding so there were plenty of options.

[​IMG][/url]stage 4 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

The bilge fan fits into the intake moulding but the assembly is too long so I cut a bit of the moulding

[​IMG][/url]stage 5 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

Stuck the bilge blower into the heater box and did a test run with it connected to a spare battery, it nearly blew the back door off:D

[​IMG][/url]stage6 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

You can see where it sits under the wing

[​IMG][/url]stage 7 by punkawallah110, on Flickr[/IMG]

All done and with washer bottle etc fitted you can't even see it

[​IMG][/url]stage8 by...
had issue bleeding my clutch, I tried reverse bleeding, power bleeding, vacuum bleeding etc etc as well as a few other known methods.

I decided to make a remote bleeder.
You will need:

2 x 3/8 unf 24tpi make brake pipe nuts
1 x 3/8 unf joiner
1 x length 3/16 copper pipe
1 x bleed nipple

cut pipe to length required and put one nut on before flaring the end with your fav brake flare tool.
fit this to the joiner and screw in bleed nipple to other side if joiner:


do same the other end:


you'll end up with this:


fit one end to your slave cylinder:


and other end to bulkhead:...
I'm putting this ere so I can link to it.

This post provides links to download the rave disk for free. Free as in you don't pay for it. There are a number of people selling the same free rave disk on e.bay. Don't be fooled by their advertising. They're charging you for the same information you get here for free.

There's a number of rave disks available from the links below which cover the repair of Land Rover products.
These are free to download.

It looks like www.myrangerover.co.uk is now back up and running so the link below points to that site where the downloads are available for free. Sadly myrangerover randomly stops working. If this happens use the links below to download rave.

Click on the links to open the download screen - slow to open but they do work:

http://www.myrangerover.co.uk/rave-workshop-manual/ (may randomly stop working)

rave01 = 624meg
rave02 = 476meg
rave03 = 432meg

Or click on links below. A "save as" option will appear:

rave01 = rave01 = Discovery 2, Freelander 1 (2001 onwards) 1.8 / Td4 / v6
rave02 = rave02 = Range Rover P38 and L322, Defender (up to 2002) 200/300tdi and v8
rave03 = rave03 = Range Rover classic tdi/v8, Discovery 1995 onwards mpi/Tdi/v8, Freelander 1.8/L series

The rave disks download as .iso image files. After downloading them you need to use 7-zip or winzip type programs to open them, to allow you to copy the rave folder out of the .iso image file.

WinZip users:
Download the .iso file to yer computer. Right click the .iso file on yer computer and...
Updated 29 July 2015.

This write up shows the design and measurements used to make my HippoRamps. The original ramp section was shorter. This guide shows the betterer longer design with a shallower slope. It was a bit hit and miss driving up the ramps if the tyres were damp on the original shorter version. My Freelander can now drive up all 4 ramps at the same time. It can also do it in front wheel drive only. You can make taller HippoRamps but be careful of the sill height. Taller HippoRamps will fit under the front bumper ok but not the sill where you place the rear HippoRamp for the rear wheel to drive up.

HippoRamps are made from wood. Each HippoRamp is made of 1 base and 1 ramp. The ramp sits in front of the base and is not connected to the base. I remove the ramp when my Freelander is on the base to stop the ramps being stolen.

Warning: Be careful when lifting vehicles. Always chock the vehicle wheels after driving onto the HippoRamps and use the handbrake. If you intend to release the handbrake don't rely on the transmission to hold the car on the ramps. If the gearbox is in neutral your vehicle could roll forward/backward. If any of the wheels are lifted in the air make sure the other wheels are chocked. Failure to so do could allow the vehicle to move forward/backward. If you drive onto your HippoRamps and your vehicle is not central or unsafe in anyway, drive off them, realign the HippoRamps/vehicle and try again.

Video: HippoRamps

Warning: You need to chock the front wheels to stop your Freelander rolling. Don't rely on the handbrake on its own.


HippoRamps are made out of lengths of wood cut as below. I used Sawn Kiln Dried Timber as it was cheap and suitable for the job. It has a square edge to work with. At the time of writing this guide the wood was available as 47mm x 100mm in different...
Following on from my previous thread ..... http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/possible-headlamp-ballast-ecu-fault-256103.html

Discotigger kindly pointed out that it would be prudent to ensure all the shattered glass is removed from the headlamp assembly so it doesn’t jam the shutter that is fitted on the HID/Xenon system.

So in true Saint.V8 fashion, I thought I’d do a mini ‘How To’ in removing the headlamp assembly and removing the front glass and interior finisher.

REMEMBER: The HID/Xenon system uses very high voltages to strike the arc in the lamp – as such DO NOT work on the system with the ignition and/or lamps switched on....turn it all off and wait a few minutes to allow for any voltages to dissipate first.

My L322 has a full wrap-around bullbar fitted so I detail the removal of this too as it also has to be removed before getting the headlamp unit out!

The Bullbar is bolted through the front bumper and also via brackets on the side which are fitted behind the indicator unit.


Updated 08 April 2015

This is the first draft of my coolant level sensor how to guide. It will have additional information added soon (and probably some minor corrections).

This how to guide shows the steps I took to fit a level sensor to my Freelander's coolant reservoir. I got the idea from the mad hat man. He's done the same mod on many other vehicles.

A level sensor is switch controlled by a lever which floats. As the lever moves it opens or closes a switch. The theory is that when the coolant level drops, the lever will drop and the switch will open. When the coolant level is ok the lever is pushed up which closes the switch. My level sensor illuminates an LED on the dash when the level is ok. The LED switches off when the coolant level falls. You could also put a buzzer in the circuit too, wired to make a sound when the coolant level is low. I haven't done this on my Freelander. My LED circuit is only powered when the key is turned. The following guide will show you how I fitted my set-up.

Video = Freelander 1 Coolant Level Sensor - YouTube

Coolant reservoir lever switch:


Warning LED on my dash:


Required parts are:
LED holder
Thin wire
Heat shrink
Level sensor
Fuse holder
Chock block
Rubber washers

I used this level sensor as it can go to 110 degrees.

Level sensor: Liquid Level Sensor Horizontal Nylon | Rapid Online

Technical spec: http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/61-1362.pdf

A good test to check your coolant system is pressurised is to squeeze one of the larger coolant pipes at the top of the radiator when it's cold. Compare this to when the...