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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

A regular question is about if a vehicle is built in ‘72 or ’73. Not easy to answer especially as vehicles didn’t go down the line in numerical order. Below is a table showing the highest number used before 1st Jan ’73 and the lowest number built after 31st December ‘72
If your chassis number is higher than the highest figure, don’t bother, it isn’t tax-free. If it is lower than the lowest, then it is. If it falls between, it might be.
The Heritage Motoring Centre at Gaydon can provide the proof DVLA require, this table will just tell you if it is worth pursuing.
I cannot vouch for its accuracy, but have no reason to doubt it. It was fairly widely circulated when the tax exemption first froze at 72.
For all you petrol heads out there.
Most of these are generic to our series Landrover.
Areas covered are.
All are interconnected when we are looking for a good smooth running engine.

We will start with the engine and I will try and keep it simple.
Compression, if you have a compression tester check all cylinders, they should be similar or the same. If not you could try a squirt of oil in through the plug hole and see if the reading goes higher. If it does it shows the piston rings are not sealing as good as they should, if the reading doesn’t go up but still shows low it’s possibly your valves not seating properly. Burnt out valves, decoke required, too tight valve clearances ect. A cylinder leak test will pin point the trouble

It is pointless proceeding to tune an engine which has a known mechanical flaw like a poor cylinder.
Check your valve clearances, do not be tempted to have them too tight, when checking with your feeler gauge rotate the push rods between your fingers, ( this checks for bent push rods ) if they are bent and you adjust the gap at the widest part the rod can rotate and reduce the gap to nothing potentially holding the valve off its seat. I have also seen the rocker arms with indentations in them causing the top of the valve to rebate into the rocker. Replace if so.
If you are still having problems...
If you have left your landy sitting on the driveway for any amount of time with out moving her then you may get the “Stuck Clutch” problem.
This is when you press the peddle down and get a grinding noise when you try and select a gear.
The problem is that your clutch plate has stuck to the drive plate and is refusing to disengage.
So to fix this there are a number of (Quite brutal) procedures like ramming it in to gear when the engines running etc but this is one method that’s more gearbox friendly and quite quick.

1. On a flat surface jack up and place good axel stands under the driven wheels and chock the none driven wheels.
If you’re doing this on a permanent 4x4 Landy then you will need to get all 4 wheels off the ground.
2. Release the handbrake.
3. Select 3rd gear and start her (The driven wheels should be turning so watch out of Kids, dogs and cats).
4. Wait until the engine is fully up to temperature.
5. Once up to temperature rev up the engine to about 35 MPH and then as quickly as possible press the clutch pedal and stamp on the brake (I know 3 feet would be handy).
6. Restart her if she has stalled and repeat line 5 until the clutch pedal works as normal.

Note you may hear a bang or crack as the plate releases.

The idea is to use the stored energy in the wheels to break the rust binding the plates...
Your Landy is Tax exempt if it was
constructed before 1 January 1973?
and retains 8 points (See Radically Altered Vehicles)

Radically Altered Vehicles
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]40. Radically altered vehicles are vehicles that have been substantially altered from their original specification, but are not kit conversions.
41. Although their appearance is different from the original they may still qualify to retain their original registration marks. The vehicle components used from the original vehicle are allocated a numeric value and provided the vehicle scores eight points or more it will retain its original mark.

42. The point system is weighted as follows; the original or new (direct replacement from the manufacturer) unmodified chassis/monocoque bodyshell has a value of 5, the suspension (front and back) 2, axles (both) 2, transmission 2, steering assembly 2, engine 1.


Here are some links


OK this is for people who are new or unsure on the subject, not mad professor bio chemists . . . .OK we are talking SVO[straight vegetable oil] the sort you can by in the supermarkets , can i use it in my diesel motor Ming? yes but earthlings there is a few thing you need to know, first is [START OFF SLOW] as you will be raking the Shiite out of your fuel tank/ pipes 10% is slow for a month [THEN CHANGE YOUR FUEL FILTER] now you can slowly start upping it. . . .30% is max summer or winter 40% hot summer ,the chip shop smell kicks in about 25% but not that noticeable , OK for most Lrs after year 2,000 is fine but check spec if unsure , for non copper fuel parts ,old type rubber pipes-gaskets etc [fuel parts only] the Bosch is the preferred high pressure pump ,as after 2000 most motors used bio proof parts as some European country's introduced 5% bio in diesel for de -waxing purposes [what happens to diesel below freezing]most of the supermarket stuff i have tested is good, no water or wax,and filtered to below 10 microns. . .the cost of veg oil is now increasing at a fast rate now ,so you are not going to save a lot, about 45p /ltr at this time,you can turn SVO into bio [bio is thin veg oil] however that is another bag of tell. . . .i will try and explain this later also will go into WVO [USED COOKING OIL] and how to do it the easy way, but thats later , so remember earthlings ,check your parts start slow. . .change filter . . .start a slow increase,40%max in summer [UK] . . . .:) :) :)
Preventative Maintenance Tip- Window mechanisms
I am amazed at the amount of cash spent on replacing window lift assemblies.

Why do they fail?

a. A small proportion have motor failures.

b. The vast majority fail due to the bowden cables snapping.

Why do the bowden cables snap?

The cables become corroded due to the unavoidable rainwater seepage into the door voids past the sealing strips at the base of the window glass.

Over time the side channels/runners which guide the glass as it is raised or lowered become contaminated and hardened this causes excessive friction and therefore the window lift motor has to work harder, the driver notices that the window seems to take longer to close/open. Apart from the additional strain on the window lift motor the bowden cable also comes under increased strain. Eventually something has got to give and this is usually the corroded bowden cable.

What's the answer?


Remove door trim panel

Carefully 'Stanley knife' an access slot in the plastic membrane

Operate the window raise/lower function and observe how the mechanism operates (obviously you should not put your fingers inside the door void during this procedure) You should see the nylon blocks sliding up and down in the mild steel guide channels. You should also observe the bowden cables racing over their pulleys. If on close inspection you find serious corrosion in any part of the bowden cable then any further attempts at maintenance would be pointless until the cable is replaced. Mix some clean engine oil with grease in a suitable container and using a small paintbrush lubricate the mild steel channels as far as you can reach.
Now lubricate the bowden cable by raising/lowering the window in small increments and applying the lubricant as each successive section of cable is revealed.

Window runner maintenance

With the window glass fully lowered, impregnate a small piece of sponge with a good quality plastic bumper colour restoration spray...
Remember, FIRST blast on clear timing marks NOW before you undo anything!
These will be YOUR timing marks.
Scribe good marks on the pump flange and the timing cover casing so you can always get back to where you are now. That's the worst it can get.

You do NOT need to pin the pump, lock the flywheel or any of that stuff for this job. You only need to do that when timing the pump from "first principles" and you are not doing that. You are "fine tuning" the timing, and that is a process that is NEVER undertaken by the engine makers or service dealers. They don't care about you, their fitters don't have the skills, and they won't be driving the cars, so why would they bother?

They just set all engines to fixed marks, and send them out. This means that some will be OK, some a bit better, and some really lousy. They just don't care.

But you have the time, the inclination and the incentive ..... so GO ! You might be amazed how well you can get your motor running if you sort the timing out exactly right for YOUR engine.

After you have marked the pump and casing, sort out the spanners you will need. Carry them with you in a wee bag.

Every time you make any adjustment, you will be rotating the whole injection pump about 1 to 2 mm on the flange one way or the other. Try to move it in small steps about that much each time.

You MUST loosen all 4 injector pipes at BOTH ENDS, just enough to let the pipes move a tad, and then loosen the three pump flange nuts just enough to let the pump move. There may also be a longer nut and bolt to loosen at the bracket to the rear of the pump. DO NOT loosen any more than you need to. Move the pump as required, and it should move easily. Check the marks are now 1 to 2mm apart, and clamp the three pump flange nuts snugly. Don't over-tighten them. Now nip up the injection pipes at the bottom end, and whirl the motor over on the starter till fuel spits at each injector pipe end. Tighten at the injector pipes. Start up, and test drive....
A useful tool for calculating torque values when the Haynes or Rave doesnt.
This is a subject that keeps coming up, what to do with the knobs and when to do it.
I got this off the series 2 club web site "http://www.series2club.co.uk/gear_levers.htm" and its about the best i have seen.
How to EGR Blank a 300 TDi
  1. Remove EGR bolts at manifold.
  2. Replace Top Inlet hose for one without an EGR spur
  3. Bolt EGR blanking plate at manifold.
  4. Ditch Whole EGR mechanisim
  5. Tie cables out of the way
Cost Approx £20
EGR Blanking Plate £5 - Ebay
New top Hose £15 - Ebay

300TDi EGR Before and After blank Photo's: