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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Apr
03
Preventative Maintenance Tip- Window mechanisms
I am amazed at the amount of cash spent on replacing window lift assemblies.

Why do they fail?

a. A small proportion have motor failures.

b. The vast majority fail due to the bowden cables snapping.

Why do the bowden cables snap?

The cables become corroded due to the unavoidable rainwater seepage into the door voids past the sealing strips at the base of the window glass.

Over time the side channels/runners which guide the glass as it is raised or lowered become contaminated and hardened this causes excessive friction and therefore the window lift motor has to work harder, the driver notices that the window seems to take longer to close/open. Apart from the additional strain on the window lift motor the bowden cable also comes under increased strain. Eventually something has got to give and this is usually the corroded bowden cable.

What's the answer?

Maintenance.

Remove door trim panel

Carefully 'Stanley knife' an access slot in the plastic membrane

Operate the window raise/lower function and observe how the mechanism operates (obviously you should not put your fingers inside the door void during this procedure) You should see the nylon blocks sliding up and down in the mild steel guide channels. You should also observe the bowden cables racing over their pulleys. If on close inspection you find serious corrosion in any part of the bowden cable then any further attempts at maintenance would be pointless until the cable is replaced. Mix some clean engine oil with grease in a suitable container and using a small paintbrush lubricate the mild steel channels as far as you can reach.
Now lubricate the bowden cable by raising/lowering the window in small increments and applying the lubricant as each successive section of cable is revealed.

Window runner maintenance

With the window glass fully lowered, impregnate a small piece of sponge with a good quality plastic bumper colour restoration spray...
Apr
02
Remember, FIRST blast on clear timing marks NOW before you undo anything!
These will be YOUR timing marks.
Scribe good marks on the pump flange and the timing cover casing so you can always get back to where you are now. That's the worst it can get.

You do NOT need to pin the pump, lock the flywheel or any of that stuff for this job. You only need to do that when timing the pump from "first principles" and you are not doing that. You are "fine tuning" the timing, and that is a process that is NEVER undertaken by the engine makers or service dealers. They don't care about you, their fitters don't have the skills, and they won't be driving the cars, so why would they bother?

They just set all engines to fixed marks, and send them out. This means that some will be OK, some a bit better, and some really lousy. They just don't care.

But you have the time, the inclination and the incentive ..... so GO ! You might be amazed how well you can get your motor running if you sort the timing out exactly right for YOUR engine.

After you have marked the pump and casing, sort out the spanners you will need. Carry them with you in a wee bag.

Every time you make any adjustment, you will be rotating the whole injection pump about 1 to 2 mm on the flange one way or the other. Try to move it in small steps about that much each time.

You MUST loosen all 4 injector pipes at BOTH ENDS, just enough to let the pipes move a tad, and then loosen the three pump flange nuts just enough to let the pump move. There may also be a longer nut and bolt to loosen at the bracket to the rear of the pump. DO NOT loosen any more than you need to. Move the pump as required, and it should move easily. Check the marks are now 1 to 2mm apart, and clamp the three pump flange nuts snugly. Don't over-tighten them. Now nip up the injection pipes at the bottom end, and whirl the motor over on the starter till fuel spits at each injector pipe end. Tighten at the injector pipes. Start up, and test drive....
Mar
08
A useful tool for calculating torque values when the Haynes or Rave doesnt.
Mar
07
This is a subject that keeps coming up, what to do with the knobs and when to do it.
I got this off the series 2 club web site "http://www.series2club.co.uk/gear_levers.htm" and its about the best i have seen.
Mar
01
How to EGR Blank a 300 TDi
  1. Remove EGR bolts at manifold.
  2. Replace Top Inlet hose for one without an EGR spur
  3. Bolt EGR blanking plate at manifold.
  4. Ditch Whole EGR mechanisim
  5. Tie cables out of the way
Cost Approx £20
EGR Blanking Plate £5 - Ebay
New top Hose £15 - Ebay

300TDi EGR Before and After blank Photo's:
Feb
07
Gaylander How To Clean Up your Fuel Pump





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So I did the simplest thing I could think of. I yanked out the Fuel Pump and cleaned it up.
Here's how:

I flipped up the seats and pulled back the floor cover by unscrewing the little plastic clips a quarter turn, until they released. The fuel pump is directly under the metal cover on the passenger side. The screws are a #3 Phillips.

Putting the screws and cover aside, I popped the hood and removed the fuel pump relay ( its pretty clearly marked ) under the fuse cover on the ( US models ) drivers side. I fired it up until it stalled, telling me that the fuel system was depressurized completely. I then removed th battery "hot" cable from the post, wrapping it in a shop cloth as I did so. DO NOT PROCEED UNTIL YOU HAVE DONE THIS.

I then used a screwdriver to pop the clips on the electric motor feed, on the top of the fuel pump, followed by the fuel line itself. If you have one, use a yellow chalk stick or white-out to mark the original position of the collar. Now it was time to remove the locking collar that holds the pump in place. I hear that Land Rover has a tool for this, but I figured that a #4 flat blade screwdriver and a ball peen hammer would do the trick. I was right. The pump is spring loaded, and this provides some resistance against the collar when removing it.

Put the collar to the side, and the pump pulls out of the tank. You will have to rock it to get the float to clear without bending it. This is a good time to dip a small jar into your tank and check your fuel quality, and any sediment build up in the tank.

I pulled the pump body out and placed it in a glass bowl I had brought along to catch any fuel that might leak out. I had also put down a blue tarp on my driveway, and had plenty of rags handy as well. An old toothbrush is nice to have around to clean away any old grime that your rags wont get. I also placed a clean rag over the hole left by the pump, to keep...
Jan
08
  • 80 inch models:
    • The chassis number can be found on the nearside engine mounting and on the brass plate on the nearside of the bulkhead. Later vehicles had the plate positioned inside the cab.
    86 & 107 models:
    • The chassis number can be found on the bulkhead inside the vehicle and on the right hand front spring hanger. Note: We've gotten a report of an 86" with the chassis number on the left hand *rear* spring hanger and nothing on the RH Front. So check both places.
    88 & 109 models:
    • The chassis number can be found on the bulkhead inside the vehicle and on the right hand front spring hanger.
    Series III 109" V8 (Stage I)
    • The chassis number can be found on the firewall in the engine bay and on the right hand front spring hanger.
    90, 110, 130 & Defenders:
    • Found in the front corner of the windshield
      Stamped on plate Riveted to the top of the brake pedal box in the engine compartment
      Stamped on the right-hand side of the chassis forward the spring mounting turret
    Range Rovers:
    • Found in the front corner of the windshield
      Stamped on the right hand side chassis member forward of the front spring mounting turret - Late Classics, some had their VIN stamped on the off side rear chassis outrigger.
    Discoveries:
    • Found in the front corner of the windshield
      Stamped on the right hand side chassis member forward of the front spring mounting turret
Synopsis of Chassis/Serial Numbering Scheme

  • Digits
    • 1 Geographic Region: S = Europe
      2 Country: A = United Kingdom
      3 Manufacturer: L = British Leyland/Land Rover
      4,5 (model)
      • LB = Series III, Stage I, Lightweight
        LD = 90 & 110, later Defender
        LH = Range Rover (mk I) (Classic)
        LJ = Discovery
        LN = Freelander
        LP = Range Rover (mk II)
        LT = Discovery, Series II
      6 (wheelbase)
      • A = 88" & Freelander, & 100" for RR mk I
        C = 109" and 1 ton
        G = 100"
        H = 110" & 147"
        K = 127"
        M = Special
        R = 110"...
Dec
30
RigPix Database - CB, "Freeband" and more

This sites lists hundreds of CB Radios with specifications and a picture of each rig. So if your thinking of buying one or you've seen one on Ebay and want more info. Click the link :)
Dec
29
COMMONLY USED COLOUR CODES FOR
BRITISH CAR WIRING
Colour
Main/Tracer - Use

BROWN Main battery feed
Brown/Blue Control box to ignition and lighting switch (feed)
Brown/Red Compression ignition starting aid to switch. Main battery feed to double pole ignition switch.
Brown/Purple Alternator regulator feed
Brown/Green Dynamo ‘F’ to control box ‘F’
Brown/White Ammeter to control box
Brown/Yellow Alternator to ‘no charge’ warning light
Brown/Black Alternator battery sensing lead
Brown/Slate Starter relay contact to starter solenoid
Brown/Orange Fuel shut-off (diesel stop)
GREEN Accessories fused via ignition switch
Green/Brown Switch to reverse lamp
Green/Blue Water termperature gauge to temperature unit
Green/Red Direction indicator switch to left-hand flasher lamps
Green/Purple Stop lamp switch to stop lamps; or stop lamp switch to lamp failure unit
Green/Light Green Hazard flasher unit to hazard pilot lamp; or lamp failure unit to stop lamp bulbs
Green/White Direction indicator switch to right-hand flasher lamps
Green/Yellow Heater motor to switch single speed (or to ‘slow’ on two or three-speed motor)
Green/Black Fuel gauge to fuel tank unit or changeover switch or voltage stabilizer to tank units
Green/Pink Fuse to flasher unit
Green/Slate a) Heater motor to switch (‘fast’ on two or three-speed motor)
Green/Orange Low fuel level switch to warning light
ORANGE Wiper circuits fused via ignition switch
Orange/Blue Switch to front screen wiper motor first speed, timer or intermittent unit
Orange/Green Switch to front screen wiper motor second speed
Orange/Black Switch to front screen wiper motor parking circuit, timer or intermittent unit
Orange/Purple Timer to intermittent unit to motor parking circuit
Orange/White Timer to intermittent unit to motor parking circuit
Orange/Yellow Switch to headlamp or rear window wiper motor feed, timer or...