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Finally got round to checking, and I feel like a bit of a tool - heater is blocked up completely! Managed to find a brand new 'old stock' genuine replacement on flea Bay for £170 delivered, hope that'll do the trick...

Hi, did a quick search to see if it'd been mentioned before and couldn't find anything... I believe it's fitted standard to new range rovers etc, but came across one cheap and wondered if it could be fitted to my 1985 90? That said, can you run it without a subscription? If anyone's got...

I thought that, I gave it a good run through the lake to make sure! 😊

No, coolant has stayed the same for the last 3 - 4 miles since the heads were changed

I'll check tomorrow (the neighbours wouldn't appreciate me running it now) but I'm pretty sure it's hot all the way through. That does seem like a good theory though, it was running fine then got hot whilst playing in the local quarry... Not been right since

Call me stupid, but I haven't! I saw water flowing round the top and didn't give it much more thought... is the a way of testing it without draining it?

Hi, wonder if anyone might have an idea what's causing my v8 to overheat - it's got me stumped. I did have little bubbles in the radiator, so suspected head gasket and had heads skimmed 20thou (the most LR recommend to skim) and fitted composite gaskets. While the heads were off, I checked the...

Definitely looking into that zen. Still a bit concerned about f***ing up and burning the whole thing down though!

Update - changed the wiring and it started on the button! Still running a bit rough after the dizzy change, but my god it's a bit better than the 12J that was there before! Cheers for the input guys

Signal wire is black/white. I'll know for definite tomorrow morning, but I'm convinced the issue is that it thinks the ignition is off when I crank it. It was a schoolboy error after working a night shift and not thinking!

Been thinking about it. I'm at home now so can't check, but I think I wired the switched live for the ecu to the ignition switch where it's dead whilst cranking! Coil is connected to the old stop solenoid so that's why I've got good voltage and spark on that side. *Fingers crossed*

I think tomorrow I'll try and bridge the relay and see if it'll run. Surely the fact that the fuel pump primes on ignition means that is working though? Mine is non-serpentine btw

Good question boycie! The guy who sold it said 92... Got the dizzy in now. Still no luck. I've found LT checks on another post and according to that, I should be getting 0v between battery +ve and coil -ve with ignition off. I'm getting 12.8v! How can this be with brand new lucas coil and...

Well I'll go with a new dizzy tomorrow and let you know what happens

Both relays click as they should. Fuel pump comes on to prime but doesn't run at any other time. I assumed it would come on when it sparked. Ecu relay comes on when I turn the key and stays on for 5 seconds afterwards

Yeah. Think it must be time for the new dizzy, rather than fitting it to a proven running engine I'll bite the bullet and do it.

*Cranked*

Just be reading elsewhere, the pump should prime for a couple of seconds (which mine does) but should come on as soon as the engine is cracked... that'd explain it - the ecu is not getting a signal from the coil so doesn't know the engine is cranking. Question is: how come? There's voltage...

AFU2913L is the part number for the relay. There are two the same near the ecu - one for the pump, one for the ecu. Fuse should be in same place. Range rover (?) had an impact sensor jobby I think but don't quote me on it.

Yeah that's all fine. Like I said, tested at the ecu plug and earth is fine, getting the correct voltages/ohmages at all the other pins. One thing that came to mind - I had to make up a couple of wires to bridge the amplifier to the coil. The current one is the two lead amp - could I have got...