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Having just sold my TD4, I have for sale the Synergy 2A module plus dash switch that I took off. The dash switch has the three position switch with red and green lights for 'sports', 'economy' and 'off' modes. I think the unit is about 12 - 18 months old and is in perfect condition. A great...

When I had an injector that was quite bad, the difference on the computer was way more than that, pretty sure one was up to 20 on the scale or something silly. But, that was quite a duff one!

Happy days....! If it just had it's HG done though (do you know if it was pinking before?) I'd be tempted to ask the garage why it would start doing it now. For example, I know the pinking in an M3 can be caused by a tiny hairline crack in the HG between one of the cylinder walls. Good luck...

You never know.... but also worth checking for anything loose on the exhaust and heat shields as suggested.

I had what I thought was a little metallic rattle on one of my other cars but it turned out to be a little pinking. It is a high performance engine (m3) so I switched to super unleaded and it stopped. Could be worth trying a tank to see if it affects it?

Bit of a long shot bu maybe your crankcase vent? And it only does this when cold? Cold outside or engine cold? Sounds like it fires up straight away and then dies right? Will it rev if you put your foot on the accelerator once it's turned over?

I have some Hankook Ventus ST RH 06 on mine in 225/50/17. I'm very happy with them and managed to get for around €130 a corner, fitted. Good grip in the wet and dry and worked perfectly fine on some snow when I was in up in the hills.

Tried it with the MAF disconnected?

There's also a temp switch on the evaporator in the car - if it gets too cold / frozen it shuts it off too and I don't think this affects the cooling fans either.

could be interesting trying to test that!

I tell a lie, I forgot that I have a slight oil leak from the IRD although I haven't investigated exactly where it's coming from though.

No oil leaks no, no metal filings in the oil from the IRD either. I'm trying to find the cause of my wobbly gearstick on acceleration. Also, I have what I consider to be premature failure of a diff front mount after just 4000 miles (although I think this was a Bripart bush so might be totally...

Sorry to resurrect a slightly old thread.... but I have about 1mm of play up and down in both my front drive shafts at the joint to the IRD with about 4 - 5 degrees of radial play. Is this normal? Will new driveshafts affect this or is this play more likely from a worn IRD bearing? Thanks in...

okay cool, cheers. Puts the mind at ease a bit....

I'll double check the front later but it seemed to have the right 'logical' operation when I was checking at the weekend.

Thanks for the reply James, I tried jacking a front and rear wheel on one side, both wheels turn as they should, then put the front wheel down and the rear wheel is very difficult to turn but still does slowly. Plus I can wheelspin on gravel with all four. Do you mean to jack just a front...

hmmm, I bought one from them and it definitely gives drive to the rear wheels and turns as it should... should I be worried? Thread subscribed.

The 190 was a fine car, especially the cosworth version. It was the later c class and e class of the mid to late 90s that weren't quite so rust proof! I looked at a couple of e class estates when I was looking for my fl. Forums said to check for rust on the front wings, tops of the doors under...

That's true! I've always thought more than one coat of paint on the inside of the wheel arch would be a good idea for rust prevention.

The FL1 definitely has a traditional clutch on the compressor - don't think LR are quite up with MB's level of sophistication!