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Hey, sorry, had a busy month.. How I got on is... Valves 15 degrees through the pistons is what caused the latest no-start reason... Doing a complete engine revision now.. Good thing is - no ECU issues! :D

Engine pulled, prepping for full revision... Wish me luck :)

Oh well... Full revision, here we go... Gonna make a 0-mile one from it.. and make sure the timing is good without breaking my back...

Did the timing again today. Here are some pics after the tightening of the bolts. I decided to tighten both to 125nm, clean them up and add thread lock (and to follow @biketeacherdave's advice leaving it for tonight, gotta work anyway, and will recheck torques tomorrow morning before rotating...

I saw a video on YouTube where a chap cleans and sets vanos bolts in locktide before fastening and torques them also at 125nm claiming they are prone to come loose. Pondering if that has any merit to it. When you say leave for 20 mins - i assume not reassembled and just cold? I’m not that good...

Thanks. In your screenshot they say first do bank 2, basically the right side if facing the engine, right? That’s probably the one thing I did wrong, I started with bank 1 so far.

Since my ECU thread is not about ECU anymore as that one is fixed - I thought I'd start a new one about my ongoing nightmare with my lovely L322 4.4v8 from 2002. All of the electrical ghouls banished from the vehicle I decided to bring it to the yearly tech check after doing a distribution...

Son of a… it ran for 2 days. Went to a neighboring garage for yearly tech check and… stopped starting. When comfort start runs for about 15 seconds - it makes an attempt and then stops. No errors reported in any ECUs. Every once in a while 90 ignition sense incorrect shows up in Instrument...

Hi there, Did anyone invent anything better than this “sub-optimal” fastener? :) Thanks, Vlad

I did change distribution chain, guides and tensioners and retimed the engine. It’s kinda a “major mechanical thing” in my book :)

That's my current way of thinking indeed. Since ECU was cloned, it probably has some old values, but I reset adaptations on Engine, Trans and all over the place I could find and consider relevant.. Will see indeed what happens when I drive it for a while.

It runs! Essentially all that was missing was a DME sync. None of my tools had anything like that in LadRover/RangeRover section and then this morning I was like... Heck with it, it's an X5 engine with an X5 EWS. So went into BMW tooling section, and yep, there it was, DME sync procedure. Ran...

Right, so I got out and bought a replacement ECU. Plugged in - and the engine started cranking like nothing ever happened. Cranking but not starting. Now for the next problem - P1672, aka immo resync to ECU. I assume this is the reason for crank no start. I've read out old ECU in boot mode...

Anyone knows which one of these is start relais by any chance?

Oh, I'm sorry, I completely missed this. How would ignition switch affect engine management ECU? I mean... if the steering column lock unlocks - I'd assume the ignition switch is ok? Or is this a false assumption?

Sooo… ECU didn’t even make a single attempt to start today. Whatever I try - no engine mgmt light, no comms with ECU, nothing. Ordered a refurb one, cause the only real way for me to verify whether this one is alive and something else is messing with it is to open it up and hook to AlienTech...

I mean EMS ECU gets power on the wires (measurable) yet still refuses to start. Left it on a charger overnight, will check in a couple of hours… I’m lost.

So I went and bought a brand new Bosch S5 015 110Ah/920A. Zilch. Nada. Niente. EMS ECU gets its power. No fuses are blown anywhere. What the actual heck…

Also ordered AllComms in the meantime. RR is a keeper, need to wrap my head around it. :)

Will do more measurements tomorrow. But as for the battery - which brand and capacity would gurus recommend?