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I've had one of the US Pro ones for a couple of years and I'm very pleased with it.

When I reverse I get a clicking sound from the speedo. Fine in forward gears. Any thoughts please? Thanks

Ring plate in place. When I checked there was a small chamfer on the edge of the lining, but I enlarged it: no change. So as a temporary measure (because I need the truck out of the garage) I fitted an extra spring to pull the trailing shoe in. Put it all back together & went to bleed brakes at...

Having a problem with a rear brake on my S3. When adjusting the brakes I found that the osr wheel would spin freely forwards, but lock up when spun backwards. Same under power with vehicle on stands: fine in forward gears but in reverse osr wheel locks and all drive to nsr. I’ve stripped the...

When I bought my Series 3 Lightweight it was already fitted with a set of new GB Springs Parabolics. I’ve been puzzling over the suspension bottoming out on the road (eg: on speed humps), and doing some tests today discovered that the rear tyres are hitting the underside of the tub wings well...

So during Lockdown, stuck at home with Sciatica awaiting surgery, and basically climbing the walls, I bought myself a Lightweight. This is my 9th Land Rover, (S2 Station Wagon, RR Classic, S3 Truck cab, RR Classic, Disco 300 Tdi, Disco 200 Tdi, Defender 90, S2 Ragtop), but never a S1 or a LWT...

Got it at last I think. The steering relay was moving, rotating a few degrees around the longtitudinal axis of the truck. The bolts were tight, but obviousely not tight enough, and they are a b*** to get at. I would have thought the flanged plate around the bottom of the relay on the underside...

Well, lots of helpful advice here. I hasten to add that I've not been driving it like this: it was this way when I bought it, - unseen, in Lockdown! The first time I've ever bought a vehicle unseen! When I went back and checked I realised I'd not changed the 2 ball joints on the longtitudinal...

The steering on my Series 3 was wandering, so I've changed all the ball joints, and the steering relay. Everything seems to be tight but I can still turn the steering wheel quarter of a turn before the wheels move. The play seems to be after the relay. Would worn swivel bushes cause this? The...

My S3 Lightweight has Parabolics fitted, and the steering wanders constantly. I've renewed all the ball joints and the idler, and there's no slack in the steering box, so I assume the problem is that the Parabolics alter the castor angle adversely, and there's very little castor to self-centre...

I’ve just started a S3 Lightweight restoration project after a few years doing other things, and am having trouble with some of my kit: The air wrench and air snips run as soon as I connect the compressor line: the trigger isn’t shutting the air off, whilst another air wrench and the cut off...

Had my 2A up to the door handles, which I think I measured as 31". Some water around my feet, but not a huge amount!

I don't seem to be able to get the tunnel cover up on my Lightweight without removing the heater, which is a pain. Any thoughts?

So this is my 1972 ex RAF Lightweight dash in non RAF colours, which I will be changing in due course. Wiper motor cover missing, & non standard Indicator stalk obviousely.

That's good to know. Thanks. Mine's a 3, Lightweight, with 2A bits. Its a '72 Reg, so I imagine they were using old parts up. It has S3 Headlights, but a S2A dash, with central ignition

That's much clearer. Thanks.

The Haynes manual gives two different instructions for setting the Steering Idler Upper & Lower Levers. In section 11.9 it says they should be set at 90 degrees to one another , whilst at 11.13 it shows them set at 81 degrees. Can anyone give me the correct setting please?Thanks.

There seems to be an unwritten rule of these forums that the longer a thread runs the more people think its OK to add completely irrelevant comments. So I've had 3 helpful responses, for which I'm grateful, but another ten which are either completely unhelpful, or irrelevant. If you just want to...

The electric PAS sounds good but they quoted me £3K +VAT, so about £3.5K, which is an awful lot.