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Not sure why you're struggling on this. Do you understand automotive electrics? This is very straight forward, if no 12v to switch input it's either 1. No 12v to fuse, 2. The fuse, 3. The power cable from fuse to switch. Have you tested for 12v between fuse and 12v cable to switch with the...

@Windy scotland , no idea as to why there's such a big difference in price but it'd be worth cross referencing seat belt types and the different mounting points between model years...they're not all the same. https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-seats/seat-belts

@dag019 , thank you...I misread the OP's post. Of course, OP could update to a std Tdi exhaust, manifold to tailpipe if his wallet permits ;)

You're needing part #3 in the diagram https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-exhaust-systems/exhaust-diesel/rear_53423

We have near identical set up. Here's mine, a 1987 200Tdi with LT77 and 200Tdi exhaust system. The first bracket is located same as yours [see top left of photo']. The bracket/location is correct and are readily available.

Mikalor hose clamps?

Drove to Greys Court, Rotherfield Greys, for a Landy picnic and a real good tour of the house and the splendid gardens and grounds...and even under near constant drizzle, Greys Court is a fascinating place. It was our very first visit despite living only 45mins away for over thirty years...

Possibly not, the thread's four years old !

+2 for Paintman Panels https://www.paintmanpanels.co.uk/ And buy your enamel paint for the door from Paintman Paints https://paintman.co.uk/product-category/coach-enamel-paint/cars-and-classics/land-rover-colours/

How long did that lot take to write?

OP, have you applied for the full Merlin report or just sent general enquiry with VIN number? You need to apply for the full Merlin report to get the proper info' you're after.

If temp gauge is showing correct temp then all is good. Remove alternator and find fault/repair/buy a new alternator and new alternator belt. Also check water pump for no excessive wear where there may have been extra load to pump pulley/pump bearing. If all good go drive again.

Fix the leaks, clean engine, box and engine bay. Get a new MOT...job done.

In addition to @Rougharse Racing above, it would really be worth starting with your ignition system first...especially where your garagiste has had the vehicle for 12mths and one never really knows the knowledge of a non-RV8 workshop. Run through the following to get back up and running. 1...

hth ;)

As a temporary fix [that will most likely last forever[ you could buzz back the core plug and apply a good layer of JB Weld. But be careful when buzzing back as the plug's already leaking so the metal is already worn to near paper thin around the holes. If you plan to change the core plug...

This core plug can be removed using a long flat faced chisel/drift and a lump hammer. Ease it out. The trickier part due to space restriction is to install a new core plug squarely so the new plug is square and seals water tight. It's not much work removing the manifold et al to ensure a 100%...

Would not a 150mm-160mm drop plate do the job, or the 200mm? See here for Alko Dixon-Bate tech ref.pdf https://www.alko-tech.com/en_gb/get-download-file-data/13602

This. Raised axle, gearbox/txfr box and engine breathers taken to top of bulkhead are more important then the snorkel. Recommend buying the Gwyn Lewis kit as this will get you safely through 600mm of water without a snorkel.

See here https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/ERR3539 I see no real advantage in changing to a 12v jobbie + be sure to buy G grade replacement unit.