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Check the relays under the drivers seat.

If you have gps in your camera, You could use something like advanced renamer and rename all the files so the file name contains the date and gps location.

Seems the problem is still happening. Get it on my phone everytime I visit now.

I’m 6’3” couldn’t drive a standard 90 it was uncomfortable, tried a 90 with extended seat rails and bulk head removed was a lot better. but my old 110 twin cab was even better still and found the seat went significantly further back. Still doesn’t help solve the lack of arm and shoulder room...

As wimblowbrivers says You need to check if they are registered as commercial vehicles or a “car”. if it’s a registered as a car it’s in the higher tax.

Wonder if he’s going to be a one hit wonder and not come back.

I had arms and motor disconnected and I still couldn’t move the spline with mole grips on them. in the end I just dropped it off at the dealers and let them sorted.

Can I ask are you putting the mud tyres on for the look or because your going to use them as they are uncomfortable and nosey. plus if you really really need the mud you should consider going back to 16” wheels for the lager size wall height.

Single carriage ways 50 Double carriage way 60 Motorway 70 As a commercial. Fastest thing on the planet is a white van driven by a hi vis vest lol.

2 adults, 1 child and 2 dogs in a 90. Errr look for a 110.

There is a few down sides to changing to commercial tho. plod don’t need a reason to pull you over. Can’t go to the council tip. National speed limit change changes to 50.

I wired mine from the head unit and it was fine. There are clip on magnets you can get to help cut out interface. move the screen off the dash with the wipers on and see if the flicking stops as you get further away from the wipers. You need to know if it’s the camera feed or the screen that...

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Mine did that, it’s was a 2010. the garage changed three relays under the drivers seat.

Don’t fit them. It’s just more to go wrong.

I do have to agree with Kev it sounds like it’s been wired straight to earth. Check the switch terminals and operation with a multi meter

Is it an illuminated switch? can you post a link to the switch?

Unplug the interior sensor and try the alarm. If the alarm goes off plug the sensor back in Open the bonnet and tape down the bonnet sensor. Try the alarm again if it still goes off, take in to Land Rover garage plug it in and ask them to tell you what the last 10 alarm activations were.

if you hook it up to Computer it saves what sensor triggers the last 10 alarm activations. or unplug Each sensor one at a time over night until the alarm stops going off, plugging it back in when you wake up.

Dont rule the battery out yet I’ve had two within the last 3 years that have failed one of them with in a week. with the engine running what’s the voltage going into it?