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I think the issue is with the door card lock Button and internal opening catch. The military ones a like the series style where the inside is a “mirror” or the outside with a curved handle from the lock to open and a small sliding catch to lock rear to a rear door. Because of this they may fit...

If you are very new to it all I would first of all think very carefully about what you want to do/carry in it. A 90 is the same external dimensions (length and width) as a golf. You can carry things, a dog, or people, but you can only choose one as the back is too small for multiples. If large...

Age and engine type? I would recomend a mid-80’s, model with series doors fitted and a tdi engine conversion. That will get you the closest experience to what @saxavordian is describing and the true Land Rover driving expiriance. Don’t listen to the nay sayers who only Want new one and think...

This is the key. Very ver different between first na engined 90/110. And the last puma models. Dealer would let you drive what you are looking to buy but doesn’t help you choose between models if you have no experience.

I am happy to be corrected by other members more experienced than me as I am involved with the older end rather than the newer end. But it was my understanding that a 4 bolt box was a 4bolt box and they were the same from the very first defender right through until at least TD5, my experience...

That is the same design as mine is with the clamps to hold it in place. As mentioned above on the thread there are older versions that were designed to be bolted to the gutter rather than clamped in place. I was careful to avoid these when I was buying mine!.

I will admit to setting mine up by feel similar to others here and usually with the rear seal in place as I am adjusting rather than rebuilding. I have never removed the disc, even when setting up properly first couple of times I did it using a spring gauge,.

the flaps themselves are in the dash ducting so you need to disassemble completely to fully access. However it is far more likely to be a cable issue than the flaps. I would start at the control end and see if the cable is firstly still attached and if it is free to move. If you remove the...

I have a compressor. I still refuse to learn to spray it. Far too much risk of getting it wrong and messing the panel up. At least with a brush and roller if you get it wrong you can recover it by going over it again while Still wet! Two year is longer than it took to rebuild mine after the...

I cheat and use coach enamel and a gloss roller, so if you are doing it properly and trying to spray it then you have a even steeper learning curve than I did. Mine is not perfect and is a daily drive so i am not going for concourse and you can get a good enough finish with a roller as for my...

As you seem to have replaced all of the steering components already I would echo the do not assume a recon box is a good bax. however I would be also looking to check some of the other components. You say you have replaced the radius arm bushes but have checked the back end a-frame and trailing...

Agree with the above, but if you want them to last a lifetime replace the stock pistons with stainless before refitting. You talking about prop shafts in point B? If so just use the original style, you are not lifting and the wheel and trye choice are normal factory options so use the factory...

Have some pictures to help you and OP, depending on how much work you are doing to the rear body there is a fair amount of station wagon body rebuild documented on my thread here: LINK You can see on the below the panels is removed showing the bottom of the c-pillar that it rivets onto You...

Very valid point above ^^ 2x 100watt halogen spotlights have a 16.6 amp draw at 12v so you do not want more than a 20amp fuse. If you are using a standard 2x 55watt bulb then that is a 9.2amp draw at 12v so you want a 10 amp fuse. If you are using LED then they are likely to need a very low...

I think the answer is to not trust the gauge and reset the trip metre every time and refill on mileage. I refill at 200miles as a maximum. I have played with my sender repeatedly, added additional earths to it etc, and it still only shows 3/4 when full but it does show empty when it is empty so...

15/40 will be fine, mineral is what will have orginally been speced but any 15/40 will work with the engine. the 19J is also renowned for leaking and smoking (similar to most land rover products of a certain age!) do you have a couple of pics of under the bonnet, specifically that corner/sid eof...

and if you really want to go the extra mile once you have cleaned it all off give it a dusting of talcum powder to really show up any oil leak pathways.

That is correct, paint them before fitting as the lip on it sits behind the main side panel on the tub so cannot be accessed for painting after fitting.

Not a large job at all. They are riveted just riveted into place. Through the line of holes you can see In The picture. Will take longer to paint to match than to actually fit!

Are they not a straight m6? The other captives in the pillar for the toe plate seat box etc are.