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If you want to make it a really excellent towing vehicle then try and bring the tow ball as far forward towards the rear axle as possible, which means a well-done bob tail if you can afford it. This will reduce rear overhang and therefore lessen any tendency for the trailer to wag the tail. Also...

Jizer. Brilliant stuff I've used for the last 40 years.

The stop bolts control the arc the swivel joints will turn through. Whip the front wheels off and turn the steering from lock to lock and you'll see them. Winding them out will reduce the turning circle and prevent the wheels hitting the radius arms. Spacers are not a good idea as they will...

For a propshaft with UJs to work properly (without vibration) the output shaft of the gearbox and the pinion shaft of the diff should be parallel.

OK, thanks. That explains it. When my RR chassis was modified to mount the 4"-raised SIII body, pre-'95, the chassis number was obliterated. As I say, no one has ever looked for it.

Apparently, nothing. Well, it certainly relates to nothing on the V5, which as I say, only has a space for a single 'VIN/Chassis/Frame No.', and that's the one on the bulkhead. How about anyone else? Is your chassis number, rather than the bulkhead number, included on the V5? Incidentally...

This is very strange. I bow to superior knowledge that many of components on the vehicle pictured in the ad are Defender 90. A V5 asks for (a direct quote...) "VIN/Chassis/Frame No". When I've taken my hybrid to be MOT'd the garage looks for the number on the bulkhead; and that ties up with...

This is a bit like my hybrid. I think you'll find its a series three body that's been fixed on top of an early Range Rover chassis. If it's a SWB (it looks like it) you need to check whether the chassis has been cut & shut and whether it's been properly done and it's straight. There were...

Actually the very early Series 1 had permanent 4WD and no centre diff. I know because had one. It would 4 wheel drift beautifully round roundabouts in the wet.

I bought 'CV Grease' from Halfords ('Comma' brand). It comes in 500ml tins. You'll need 2 tins because each swivel takes 375ml to fill (don't over fill!). Drain out the existing oil and use a 50ml plastic syringe (can be bought in Boots the Chemists) to suck out the grease from the tin and...

Can anyone tell me how to make my profile image appear next to my name on my replies? I've uploaded one but it doesn't seem to want to appear. Probably finger trouble. Update: No need to reply to this: as you can see it was explained to me how to do it.

I know I'm late to this thread, but the following may be useful. The problem with a suspension lift is that it will take the transmission outside its design envelope and thus put strain on certain components, increasing NVH. In particular it will result in increased forces on the universal...

Hi.

The CV grease from your swivel joints is leaking past the oil seal into the axle housing and contaminating your diff oil. It's nothing to worry about as far as the diff is concerned. However, at the least, it probably means your swivel joints need topping up with CV grease. You can buy it at...