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No, I don't go in the Tratter section.

Technical Forum.

Erm. Sorry. I'm with Rodney Dave. https://www.google.com/search?q=landyzone.co.uk+freelander+what+are+the+biggest+tyres+that+fit

Sounds like you've got some general electrical issues there. For ECU type systems (windows, CL etc) to fail and then start working after being reset with the battery off sounds like spikes of power corrupting them. I'm no sparky, but that's what happened on mine. In my case the starter motor...

Personally, I wouldn't spend time under a car held up by axle stands. Especially if I'm yanking on rusted up nuts and bolts and possibly rocking the car. Sod that for fun.

For the OP, let's hope that the crank sensor is the sacrificial gadget to stop the engine.

Cheers chaps. Over.

Suppose the responsibility is on me to ignore it then.

Don't know about the F2 TD4, but my L Series F1 is known for throwing the drive/fan/aux belt (usually because of the tensioner rather than the alternator) which then gets wrapped around the main pulley and fouls the cambelt - sayonara engine usually. Hope this hasn't happened to yours.

Probably using 1 of the "quality" battery testers they sell inhouse. :rolleyes: Using "highly trained" operatives. :rolleyes:

Have you checked the oil level? Experience tells me some mechanics have trouble reading a dip stick! (or don't bother, just bung in what they think is right and maybe make mistakes doing that!) Sounds like it could be a drive/fan/aux belt issue though. Hope it hasn't come off and done some...

Did it start when the tyres went on?

TBH, I think someone has been doing stuff with that prop as the plates under the Option 1 bolt heads - the ones each joining 2 bolts should be bare metal - they look to have been spray painted while the bolts are installed, so on the car. Your Fill and Drain ID is correct. Not sure if it was...

Yes, you remove the option 1 bolts. There is no need for a plate. People only remove the option 2 bolts when the IRD is badly broken and a plate is bolted on to cover the hole - the car will basically be converted to 2WD permanently. This would be done seperately and after removing the props...

Outside of the forums, it appears common that the UJs are replaced. On LZ, after discussing problems, the UJs are very rarely changed. The damper, or front diff mount, is often changed. The 2 rear ones are usually fine. They must take a bit of a pounding, and especially with a VCU that is...

Looks like a good cribbage player.

Erm, the car he has sounds like a parts car for a working, but tatty one he buys. Erm, scrub that. Without an engine, props and presumably a box and other bits, it probably not even a decent parts car. Erm, scrub that. Best have a chat with @Alibro and turn it into the first Freelander EV...

Ssshhhhh

As all have said above. And worth repeating to do the 1 wheel up test first as you need the props on to do this! Remove it if its to stiff, post your timings on here if you need advice. Actually, you could post them on here...

Have you tried just changing the filter and flushing the fluid? The steering in mine's awesome. Nice weight, responsive, accurate.