D2 Td5 intermittent cutting out/stalling

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sierrafery said:
I'd say you should get some serious psychological treatement if you compare a Td5 engine with a Td4 or 2.0d freelander engine ... my apologies, i couldn't help myself as to not react to such enormity.
Click to expand...
Blinkin Ek, keep your drawers on.

Are you all hysterical women in the Disco section?

If you trace the roots of the TD5 engine, I believe it goes all the way back to the 1.8 petrol engine used in the MGB.

Its most recent predecessor that it was developed from was the L Series, before that the Perkins Prima.....

Yes, there are a lot of bits on the TD5 to go wrong, that were not on the L Series.

If you want to be pernicaty in your statement, which TD4 are you referring to? Because the development of the TD4 also included a TD4 which was to go into Freelander (in Rover terms the G Series) but the Krauts came along and had spare M47 capacity.
 
Update: (full write up for info only!)

Car just did it to me again. About 50kms from home. Was running fine. Then after about 40kms, a very slight loss of power at first and almost undetectable roughness at 100km/h. (My wife could only tell because of the look on my face!) Gradually worsens and power falls away until I am crawling. As soon as I take my foot off the gas or select Neutral it stalls, dead.
1ST TIME.

Did the fuel purge procedure again. This time listening for fuel 'gurgling' with the fuel cap off. TBH I couldn't hear anything going on at all. And with my head in the engine bay and under the real wheels at back, I'm not sure I could hear a pump at all. I can hear a 'buzz' around the dash which I think I had assumed was the pump, but maybe it never has been (but see earlier electrical test of F10).

After waiting the 3 minutes per purge procedure, engine starts. Very big cloud of white smoke from exhaust. I get going and engine is still running rough and under power. I make it maybe another 5kms before finally quits on me.
2ND TIME.

This time I lift the bonnet. While the fuel pump is purging, I remove the plastic engine cover and 'jiggle' the wiring harness to the injectors etc that we've discussed before. They appear fine. But at this point I'm just jiggling wires!

Engine starts again. More white smoke.

I drive rest of the way back home (45kms) (Without plastic cover in place) with no issues at all.

Except, engine is almost imperceptibly rough at around 98km/h but if you throttle through that to 100km/h you can get it to smooth out until it feels normal again. By the time I got home it was cruising quite happily at 100km/h. In other words, even when cruising fine, there is still a very slight rough patch in the power curve.

To me it 'feels like' maybe 1 cylinder isn't getting all the fuel all the time. Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't. And I guess sometimes it might not be getting any at all. And at that point the ECU decides to shut the whole shebang down!

Dunno?
 
NZ Pablo said:
Update: (full write up for info only!)

Car just did it to me again. About 50kms from home. Was running fine. Then after about 40kms, a very slight loss of power at first and almost undetectable roughness at 100km/h. (My wife could only tell because of the look on my face!) Gradually worsens and power falls away until I am crawling. As soon as I take my foot off the gas or select Neutral it stalls, dead.
1ST TIME.

Did the fuel purge procedure again. This time listening for fuel 'gurgling' with the fuel cap off. TBH I couldn't hear anything going on at all. And with my head in the engine bay and under the real wheels at back, I'm not sure I could hear a pump at all. I can hear a 'buzz' around the dash which I think I had assumed was the pump, but maybe it never has been (but see earlier electrical test of F10).

After waiting the 3 minutes per purge procedure, engine starts. Very big cloud of white smoke from exhaust. I get going and engine is still running rough and under power. I make it maybe another 5kms before finally quits on me.
2ND TIME.

This time I lift the bonnet. While the fuel pump is purging, I remove the plastic engine cover and 'jiggle' the wiring harness to the injectors etc that we've discussed before. They appear fine. But at this point I'm just jiggling wires!

Engine starts again. More white smoke.

I drive rest of the way back home (45kms) (Without plastic cover in place) with no issues at all.

Except, engine is almost imperceptibly rough at around 98km/h but if you throttle through that to 100km/h you can get it to smooth out until it feels normal again. By the time I got home it was cruising quite happily at 100km/h. In other words, even when cruising fine, there is still a very slight rough patch in the power curve.

To me it 'feels like' maybe 1 cylinder isn't getting all the fuel all the time. Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't. And I guess sometimes it might not be getting any at all. And at that point the ECU decides to shut the whole shebang down!

Dunno?
Click to expand...
If it were the ECU cutting the engine you wouldn't get the symptoms of your "1st Time" stall - ie roughness then gradual loss of power until it stalls. That does not sound to me like the ECU cutting the engine or even going into a limp mode (if the TD5 has one).

Or indeed your "2nd Time" symptoms.

I wouldn't think it is a lift pump issue, surely the TD5 ECU monitors low pressure levels and would throw error codes if pressure was to low?

It does sound like an electrical issue.... corrosion or some form of contaminant in a connector, possibly a chaffed (or chewed) wire. Possibly related to heat and expansion... fiddling with the wires makes a connection and with the engine cover off, the wiring may stay cooler.
 
I had some time this weekend so I stripped all the plastic conduit off the wiring so I could inspect it properly. Top end all seems fine to be honest. Ive left it exposed so I can get to it a bit easier at the moment.

Newbie question: Is it OK to run without the plastic cover assembly on the engine for a while?

The bottom end of this wiring loom gets a lot messier. I noticed particularly where it goes to the fuel temp sensor is very oily. And I remember that was actually one of my fault codes too. Could this be a problem? But it's way oilier from there and lower. I'm guessing thats not unusual?

(conduit stripped off. Was very brittle)
IMG_7520.jpeg


Zip tied onto a piece of spare fuel line I had lying around as a temporary support for wiring
IMG_7524.jpeg


Oily around fuel temp sensor…
IMG_7514 2.jpg
 
IMO you are just chasing your tail as long as you dont replace the injector seals to rule them out cos those are the prime suspects for the symptom you described..... as it was mentioned few times by more of us
 
OK i finally got my local garage to replace the injector washers and seals. Just done over 250kms on it and it has behaved, well, the same as before! Fingers crossed the problem doesnt show up again without warning.
 
sierrafery said:
I'm glad your saga has ended 🙏... though remember next time to not overthink simple things, i'm not a fan of the "i told you so" attitude but now i can't help myself to not remind you my first reply in this thread(and fortunately i insisted) :) https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/d2-td5-intermittent-cutting-out-stalling.391880/post-5687000
Click to expand...
Thanks Sierrafery for all your help and advice on this (and to everyone else too). Very impressive service levels on this forum!!

I wish I could be as confident as you that this is 'end of saga', but given I had 12 months trouble free in between occurances, I'm not sure I will fully relax until another 12 months has passed! But so far, so good.

I'll keep you all posted!
 
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