Recent content by Swl26

Just seen this. Mine does this so i bought one of those tie rods. I bought the same KKH102260. Took the old one off, put the new one on and exactly the same but slightly less vibration. Under load, engine would move back and a bracket would tap the subframe. Turns out TD4's have a longer one...

If I'm honest, I bought it used off a bloke on Facebook for half price. I can't remember if he had it pay or not. Somebody on here may know though.

Yeah, I've got a steel sump guard from eBay. I think its a Romanian designed and built thing. Not the greatest fitting but its good for me. Don't know too much about the FL2 but i do know that a fuel tank guard would be a wise choice

And for those interested, got it all working and wired in. Very happy having my lightbar working again and does so without tacky random switches drilled into the dash. Just need to put the roof tent and rock sliders back on and source a nudgebar and I can stop spending money on it for a while 🤣🤣

Ended up using a chisel to force a gap between the hub and inner race, then the workshop manager says, 'weve got a puller if you want' - All in all, not the worst Freelander job I've done... so far lol.

Finally dealt with the horrific wheel bearing whine yesterday. After 165,000mi it was a tad unhealthy! Took advantage of the hydraulic press and bearing puller at Uni which made the job miles easier. Just had to use some cut up stock to space the knuckle as the wheel hub was wider than the ram...

Just started wiring stuff in, can confirm that these lights are tapped into main beam. Great as I ran identical wiring to another switch and will finish running up to the roof lights tomorrow. Looking tidy so far though..

Hi folks, Bought a Driving lamp Pod kit VUB500870 and will be fitting this weekend. (Facelift bumper pods) Wanting to wire up my roof lights at the same time whilst I'm doing this and will use the spare switch from the kit. Does the VUB500870 kit only come on with main beam headlights? If...

When on a student budget, one can only dream of cheap, trouble free motoring. 🤣 Especially after the amount of work put in over the last few years 😂

Ah no bother, I've just found your original post from before you changed the crank pulley and looked at the pics Arctic2 put up. Seems I was trying to do the bolt at the back of the spring loader tensioner part rather than the bolt that holds it to that little spring bar. That would be why it...

Following on from escapades with rear door not opening and window not going down when wanting to get to tools to put a nice new steering wheel on, did a few maintenance and needed jobs. Changed the diff oil which had some water in (assuming form the recent flooding and fun) and was like iced...

Did the test today to check VCU Supposedly a Bell rebuilt unit bought from a breakers 4 years ago. 1.2ish m with 5kg milkshake syrup jug 😂 1:34 going forwards on car that had sat overnight. Little long but good enough and hopefully confirms poorly diff mounts are due to Britpart cheapo's.

Did you manage to solve this? Have the same issue, 24mm nut just spins with no end in either direction. I put a dot on the back nut and spun the 24mm one around a few times, went back and the back nut dot had not moved. - I'm not sure they're linked. Managed to wrangle a flex head ratchet...

They are behind the bumper. It will be attached to a small plate bolted to the crashbar on the the drivers side. Don't know where to get one which is a pain as that's a problem I'll be facing if it gets any colder. Circular featureless sensor with a two pin plug. Must be a simple close to...

The plastic bits are on the glass and frame itself. It comes unclipped then you can take the screws out and the whole glass panel lifts out the top.