Recent content by suprlite

SOLVED. The problems all seemed to stem from a heavily corroded C0575-1, first giving bad connection, then giving no connection. The bad connection-phase seems to have caused currents to seek other paths, possibly overloading some wires and or circuits causing more problems which i'll be...

And last evening i noticed the dash lights are no longer illuminated.... *sigh* -D2 is the gift that just keeps on giving 😅 -well, at least it is driveable now..

Yes, the inertia-switch circuit is measured and confirmed ok. The problem is that ecm is not providing earth to the R9 through the red/blue wire. Once i give it earth from elsewhere, it starts and runs just fine, which it wouldnt do if start inhibitor was active.

Measuring directly from C0658-21 with ignition in pos2 shows no continuity to ground. (Measured from rear of contact with contact plugged into ecm). So im a tad confused. Shouldnt there be continuity between ground and red/blue wire C0658-21? Edit: as a temp.fix i have for now given R9 ground...

You're right. Relay 9 doesnt fire. +signal is ok, but its not getting ground. Am i right in thinking ground connection to R9 should come from engine control module, pin C0658-21?

Fuses in engine bay fusebox. I've solved it temporarily by a wire straight from battery+ to both terminals on fuse 1. Now she starts right up.

She started up today, and M+S disappeared 😃 the problem was that the rail in the enginebay fuse-box that powers fuse 1 and 2 only provided 1,78V. I made a jumper-cable straight from the battery to fuse 1 and she started right up. Now i just gotta figure out why the low voltage.

Im measuring around to make my D2 start again. -Fuses 1 and 2 measure only 1,78V with ign-switch in pos 2. Is this normal?

New update: when measuring the contacts in the fuse-box for continuity i discovered that C0575-1 was heavily corroded. I cut the wire and put on a splice which i fastened on one of the screw-in fusible links. Now the car does not have a seizure when i turn the ignition. However: the fuel-pump...

The auto has the xyz switch. It can be overhauled. Just take it out, drill out the rivets, open it, clean all the contacts and apply a thin layer of dielectric grease, Vaseline etc and screw it back together using bolts (M6 if memory serves me right). A new switch is like 600 pounds or...

Yes, you access the harness by removing the console. I have very similar problems to you; the dash lights up like a Christmas tree, but in R, N or when stepping on brake - all goes dark. And it happened after heavy rain. Have you sorted it out yet?

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/d2-td5-new-electric-gremlings-brakes-gearbox-m-s.390226/ <----- No, the problem remains, but im progressing slowly. Any progress on the matter will be posted on the thread i've linked to here.

Update: so i whipped out my spanners again today and investigated some more. All contacts on bcu cleaned. All relays and fuses tested. Took both fuseboxes out of the car and took them inside for inspection and cleaning. Pulled both of them apart. Indoor fusebox looked just fine, not a speck of...

So: what is this relay-cluster? Some of the wires seems to go to the light-handle. As i mentioned; i wiggled it about and got dash-lights for a little while, but cant seem to replicate it again.. Cant find any broken or rubbed wires. When i cycle the key from pos 0 to 1,2 and start nothing happens.

Update: ok, so now i have inspected gearbox-loom for damage and sprayed its contacts. Unplugged the trailer hitch contact inside right rear light. No dice. No lights in dash and engine will not turn. BUT: there is what seems to be 3 relays hanging in a cluster in the indoor fuse-box area. When i...