Recent content by Rangieman123

On a side note, if you drill out the hole in the centre of the steel adapter by 2mm it makes the clutch pedal noticeably lighter. Just take care tightening it into the master cylinder. New adapters can be found from Britpart for a few quid.

The smaller thread going in to the M/Cyl is 3/8 UNF (nut hex is 7/16 spanner) The larger thread of the steel adapter is 7/16 UNF (nut hex 1/2 inch spanner).

The lower oil pump filter bases shared the same bolt holes so you can swap filter housings between Rover V8's. The issue is that the filter will be mounted in different ways usually for clearance to front axle, chassis legs etc.

The biggest issue with earlier Series models were the seatbelts which had the shoulder strap secured to a fixing behind the top of the front seats. In a head on collision the belt would compress downwards resulting in serious shoulder injuries. Later hard top models had the shoulder strap...

No pin in blue box. Red box uses a pin in some earlier Series 2 models. If you're disassembling them, you can remove the 7/16 hex bolt and screw in a grease nipple. Makes a difference...

You seem to be having too many oil leaks. I suggest checking your crankcase breather system. If its not venting vapours/pressure, you'll find oil leaks everywhere...

A red top will be fine. The carburettored RRC had them as OE fitment. I'd suggest putting a filter ahead of it so you can easily see if it's dirty. They have an internal filter (behind the hex cap) which cannot be easily monitored.

I've had SU's on my V8 Series for decades an I've never had any issues. Certainly nothing heat related. They're off an SD1 and run on a dead head layout, so there's no return back to the tank, just a feed from the pump. I've an electric fuel pump bolted to the transfer box with a generic plastic...

The ignition amplifier must have an earth, through its two mounting screws. Its relocation is a very good idea but relying on the inner wing of a RRC as an earth can be a gamble due to corrosion. I'd suggest running a wire from the amp and earth it on the dizzy if it has a male spade poking out...

I was having a pint recently with a very old friend who has been working on classics for 50 years. He's of the opinion that positive earth vehicles rust faster than negative earthed ones. Any ideas on this??

There's a very thin wire in the distributor that earths the points baseplate to the distributor body. This can break, resulting is nothing happening. At this stage I suggest establishing if your coil is correctly wired and firing. Step 2 is spark distribution. I have been plagued over the last...

Ill assume that it's unknown if you have a pos or neg earth coil. To isolate the fault I would suggest the following: Put a plug lead into the coil HT connector with a properly earthed spark plug at the other end. Turn the engine by hand until your points are fully open, as this prevents getting...

Hello Datatec, Correct the VC is sealed, but in the many RRC and P38's that I've seen, the BW transfer boxes have lasted for more miles in the Classics, which have Dex 2 listed. Again, just my opinion from experience.

Two last things to check: The BW transfer boxes are know to be very quiet in operation. If the internal chain has stretched it will make noise, and can eventually lead to total loss of drive. Check that the yokes on your front prop are in alignment. Depending on who did the conversion you might...

Also, if you have the original Series 2 front axle it will have universal joints in the swivels, not CV joints like a Defender or RRC. Now being full time 4WD, the UJ's can create a kind of "shimmy" when going around tighter turns due to their design. It will work, but it will never be totally...