R-Two-D2's latest activity

Well, £40k minus what you could sell the Defender for at the end of it....likely around £15-20k if looked after. Still cheaper obviously to keep your old Disco. l thought long and hard before selling my 2005 Defender and buying the new one but...

In which case I would be even more glad that I didn't spend £40k+ on a new one in 2024. In 26yrs time I'll be 94 so probly a fair comment from that perspective. Any 94yr old drivers on here...? :vb-confused2: :vb-sleeping: :vb-smoke...

OK so... £40,000 would keep my D2 (cost £2k) in tip-top condition for the next 26 years... and the last 9 of those would be free of road tax :D

Hello all, I have posted before with a couple of topics but now have my landrover to actually show! I learned to drive in a series 3, then bought an ex mod lwb series 3 which I loved dearly, then got a swb ex mod defender but sold that in 2005...

£60K + for a new one, would keep my D2 in tip-top condition for the next 40 years...

If it was a Defender TD5, it might be £4k+ without even looking at it. But as it's a Disco TD5 & with your description it might be only scrap value unless you can justify why it should be more. I sometimes see ebay adverts with no picture and...

Try this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133115857675

ok its done pulled the vacume then started puting in from the cans after 2 cans started blowing cold 3 and bit cans till 600g according to the scales nice cold air blowing in the car thanks to you guys for the quick responce and your...

no like i said i had i small leak on the compressor and i didnt have time to do anything i live in the south fo france in the middle of nowere the nearest garage that can do it is 2 hrs away nearest LR dealer is the same but they wont touch my...

ok but he bought 4 cans... so for a one-off, pay the same and get it done properly... (?) ChrisFix did a YT video on how to do it, I assume it's worth buying the kit if you've got more than 1 car to do... link to chrisfix youtube video

The recharge kits & cans etc are expensive - If it's to be a one-off event, surely would have been cheaper to get a garage expert to do the work? Or do you have repeat work planned?

Trouble is, you paid £1250, but if it needs a new clutch and windscreen there's probably £2k needed for that... You might be best looking for the scrap value, or strip it for parts...?

Might be unrelated to your issue, but repeated journeys of only 4 miles can't be good for a battery... Seem to recall reading somewhere that a 20minute run is needed to replace the Amps drawn at startup? Anyone able to confirm or refute this? My...

Your connectors look clean and dry compared to mine, which was running just fine even with all that oil in there. Replaced the injector loom on mine anyway. I found even more oil when I levered-out the white pin-guide on the loom side. No...

No idea personally, but I'd imagine experts on here would want to know for sure, like, is it petrol or diesel, rather than make any assumptions, like I dunno if SD4 and TD4 are that different, etc. If you don't know, some engine pictures might...

Got it out yesterday after using the angle grinder and a dremel with the small 38mm discs. Both side towbar mounting brackets need to be removed. And as they may have been on since new, I had to cut the nuts off the thru chassis bolts. Nice...

Yeaars ago I repaired my rotten footwells with 2mm alloy plate, silicone sealant and lots of pop rivets, decade later I decided to do it properly, surprisingly the alloy/silicone/rivets were all still good. Not suggesting you do the same, but if...

I left mine off on the last 3 discos lol

It's fine without the top nut, a lot of people leave it off.

I got a mobile mechanic to replace my starter instead of doing it myself (I blame my arthritic fingers & thumbs and the bad weather, else I would have done it myself, honest). Anyway, 2 weeks later I removed the top cover to clean the MAP sensor...

I confirm, the pressure sensitive piezo crystal is in the hole for MAP output and the "probe" is for IAT

Here is a link to a thread of mine about this sensor, the problems I was having and why! And how it got sorted! https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/air-flow-logged-low-iat-logged-high.382233/ Also to save @sierrafery some time here is a quote...

I think that it is the sensor itself which I also think is the MAP and the other bit is the IAT But others like @sierrafery will confirm. Or you could google it.;)

Yes it wasn't blocked so a cotton rag and elbow grease was sufficient. What is sensitive inside the hole? :D

Well it's obviously better! Is the lickle hole down inside it visible and clean? Hope you din't stick anything down it and used sensor cleaner! If it is OK it should drive a lot better! Well done!

Is that a sintered-bronze bush for the turbo-wastegate pivot ? Mine was sticky, so decided to lube it. Hardest bit was removing the heat shield - two bolts above exhaust manifold were ok but the rear one was welded to the turbo. Luckily the rear...

Cleaned my MAP sensor, only cos I saw it somewhere on here... dunno if that mess was bad, or normal? before & after pics... ('01 D2 td5 auto 129k)

I just read this "somewhere else"... STD 90/110 FRONT SPRING measures 260mm +/- 5 mm The REAR SPRING should be around 300 mm +/- 10mm STD Disco/RRc FRONT SPRING measures 250 mm +/- 5 mm The REAR SPRING should be around 300 mm +/- 10mm I have no...

Is this a friendly, novice accepting forum? I thought it was.

Must admit can't imagine having gout in the bollocks