nomechanic's latest activity

to be fair, there are some things I will do and increasingly so. Part of the issue is time, but mostly its because I have no idea what I am doing. I did the thermostat not long ago. Took me ages but managed to follow the Haynes and got it done...

No worries! But I do have to say that I have looked at Jap imports in the past as they come in with very clean bodies, chassis and in fact most things. If you look at the prices of ones sold abroad they are easily twice the price of over here...

Worth what someone is prepared to pay. Prices are on up. 5k to 12k huge range. Depends on who wants it. Some people want live axles, some not V6, is the last new traditional style land rover product.

And no mate I don’t hate you. I don’t know you but was a bit surprised by your initial comment. But as I said maybe iI have misunderstood what you should/shouldn't post on here 👍

Specialist insurers are often cheaper for all sorts of reasons, providing you are insurer a special vehicle, all our kit cars are far cheaper to insure even though some of them, especially the Chesil Speedster, are worth a lot of money. It's...

thanks for your reply. Already got an agreed value with Adrian Flux which curiously was cheaper than the standard market value provided by esure, which did surprise me! And yes it is a hobby and I bought it with a view to never selling it, so...

its looking that way

some pictures...

Hi Kev, I should have said the 7-8k is the premium Maer chassis + fitting. So thats all in subject to anything else needing doing on top. And I wont be getting a welder based on my soldering skills at school :-) which is why everything on my D2...

the 7-8k is labour and the chassis. I am going for the 'Premium' chassis which includes bolt kit etc

I managed to follow the Mars comment but had no idea about the number of posts before you can sell. Not that I will be doing that anyway

sorry I should clarify that the 7-8k includes labour and the chassis (Maer Premium)

no idea what you mean or if this is a joke

haha I can't disagree. It is only a matter of time before the next problem surfaces. However I have a rather misguided loyalty to it and keep spending to keep it going. Mine gets used off road but absolutely not abused. Thanks for your message

With limited info I'm going for a ball park figure of £5k. My son has a tidy stock 2004 but the way I see it is regardless what you spend on its always brewing up another problem. In general are they really desirable vehicles, not to most people...

Without pictures it is impossible for someone to pass any sensible judgement. Is it stock or a jacked up monstrosity? What year is it? Manual or auto? You would never get your money back regardless .

I'm afraid it doesn't matter what you have had to spend on maintenance it doesn't make it worth anymore than the market value of a 125,000 mile D2 with galvanised chassis which may make it more desirable and add 2k to the value.

perfect - thanks for your reply. I had no idea if it made it more desirable. It has practically been rebuilt and the new galv chassis is pretty much the final piece of the puzzle. I have seen some crazy numbers associated to pristine examples...

2" terrafirma lift, 51 plate (2001), auto (new box from Bristol Transmissions). Not looking to get my money back. Just interested what they are worth as there are so few that I see around in this condition with all the gotchas sorted. They say...

perhaps I have misunderstood the essence of the forum. I thought that people with limited knowledge (me) could reach out to people with more knowledge (you), to spark a conversation and ask questions to get insight. Sorry you find this pointless...

Hi all, so, the Disco 2 which I have sunk about £20k into is about to fail its MOT, on, you guessed it terminal chassis rot. Mainly at the front unusually but also at the back in the usual spot. 3 options: 1) patch it for about 400 notes to...

just had a look. Pulled the firewall away from the corner and had a good look and its clean as a whistle. Regarding any repairs, not sure - depends what I find. Some I might be able to tackle, but if welding is required then I have a couple of...

noted. As my username might suggest, I have no idea what I am doing but armed with the Haynes and Rave manuals with some online 'tuition' I am giving it ago. Will take a look at that tomorrow. Do I need to remove anything else to see it ?

Where we’re talking about is below that. That’s the scuttle panel. Go to the passenger side in the engine bay and you will see the aluminium valve block for the ABS system. Down in the corner beneath that where the inner wing wheel arch meets the...

This is what I found and how I dealt with it.

Mine had holes high and low... The low one was easy enough, but the top one was right where the bulkhead met the inner wing. Managed to weld it up, but was so relieved to be finished I forgot to take pictures. Relieved as in, loads of smoke...

It sounds as if you’re lucky and it’s not as bad as mine was then. When you look up behind the dash, you can see the oval hole where the main loom comes through. That’s were my leak originated.

but will check the grommet again - thanks

had the cowl off. Absolutely no rust there at all

Hi if you happy you dont have any rust after removing the front cowl, check the grommet were the wikring loom goes through mine looke Ok but were loss and needed a reseal