Recent content by lynall

I have seen many parts on magnetic geabox drain bungs, normally a fur tree of swarf, but on the odd occasion a bearing or bits of brass/bronze, all trucks still running to my knowledge. LT77 always seem to have a fur tree on the drain bungs, assume the r380 is the same? Engines slightly different.

I just use what is on the bench for drilling/tapping lube, oil/used oil/grease. If it not a load bearing part you are tapping then you can drill the hole slightly larger than you normally would to make it easier to tap, ie if it is an M8 bolt use a 7mm drill rather than a 6/6.5mm you normally...

As I said most boats are vac or pump out oil chanegs only, lots are well over 40 years old. Some times people think an engine still has a dipstick tube, but in fact it is a vac tube and pretty much goes to the bottom of the sump, so there is no need to fit a pipe down it, you just connect to...

That looks like an obd test socket, you can move it, but make sure it is easy to get to as you will need it at some point.

Some cars do not even have a sump bung. I would say just about every car under 20 years old was designed to have its oil vacced out.

If you vac it out into a measured receiver, it is much easier to refill with the correct amount of oil. Works especially well with auto transmissnions. I prefer to drain via the sump plug as it is much faster on most LRs, but vaccing is faster on most normal cars. Most small boat engiens have...

Is the downpipe still bolted to the engine block?

Get your current shoes relined.

I think axles are 1/8 bsp thread.

Ebay search the words I used above, 6mm nylon pipe, 6mm pushfit. Pushfits join existing pipe to new pipe. You do not actually need the special cover so long as you fit and remove the wading plug when not needed...

Welcome to LZ You will most likely have a split i/c hose or split intake manifold, google is your friend.

No need for the fancy breather kits, just buy some 6mm od nylon tubing and a handful of 6mm push fit connectors.

Lots pf trucks have a button on the dash so the driver can stop the regen in progress, problem is on the smaller trucks the regen process loses the driver some bhp, so they all keep pushing that damned button until the dpf is chocka block, then it will not do a regen itself and needs puter to...

Sounds like you need a new thermostat, do not take the temperature gauge reading as gospel.

I would always start with the inlet/exhaust manifold gasket. Turbo leaks are certainly possible. The evidence would be black soot marks.