Recent content by Kiwi Landie

Yep - I'm scouting around trying to find people who have them in stock. The units from TAS in Italy do look to be nicely machined parts, for sure. Thanks for your help on this.

Now I just have to find the 1/2 synchro and 3/4 synchro OEM...... Needles in haystacks come to mind!

Thanks guys. I see from having a brief look on the web that specific Suffix D parts do appear to be in better supply than some of the Suffix B stuff, so it strikes me as the logical way to go, as I'll be doing the lot.

I have a very tired Series 3 Suffix B gearbox. I sourced it out of a paddock, emptied the water out, cleaned it up and rebuilt it, it works after a fashion, but it really needs a good going over and a lot of new parts. Can anyone tell me, if I am replacing basically all of the innards, can I...

Thanks Samc88. You're the first person I've seen reporting that they've used pattern gearbox parts with no issues! As they appear to be the only ones that are actually available and we have no choice but to use them, it's good to know that they CAN work. Did a road test for the first time...

Well - four years later I finally got her underway under her own power! BUT - she has a tendency to jump out of first gear - almost like it doesn't properly engage. When I rebuilt the box I did not really know what I was looking for by way of wear - so I just changed the bearings and put it...

Hi - Did you ever get your S3 gearbox working correctly? I have just finished my 76 resto and didn't really do anything to the gearbox other than fit new bearings and seals. It makes horrid noises and jumps out of first. I'd be interested in buying new innards for it, but don't really know...

Does anyone have a CAD copy of a Series wiring diagram? I am rewiring my S3, want to document my changes and it'd be great to be able to start with something, rather than from scratch. DWG or DXF formats preferably, but I daresay I could convert most others. Cheers Andrew

I ended up fitting one to each end. I picked that if they are genuinely useful then there should be one each side. If not then that's a few quid down the pan.....

Yep - I fitted the Heystee disc setup and threw away the drums. As far as I can tell - my axle is the same as all of the books/Internet photos, with the exception of the strengthening piece on the bottom edge of the passenger side. Certainly the diff looks the same as the Series illustrations...

Only six bolts each end of my axle. It doesn't look as if it has been modified, but without anything to compare it with, it is difficult to be certain. If it is a Rangie axle, does anyone know if the differential is different from a Series? To my way of thinking, the length of the diff nose...

OK - a bit more to report here. I got hold of GME. They were very quick to respond, but told me to go through Paddocks. So - I hung out for a reply from Paddocks. A day or two later I got an email asking for my front axle serial number. So I sent that. Next day I got an email saying that...

Sorry - Bit of misinformation back there. My rims are 5.5", not 6.5" as previously stated. I think with 6.5" you'd be outside the wings.

About 200.

Hmm - I see what you mean. I compared the Heystee casting with my old Series ones which I have yet to throw away. You have a point - Opening the drain plug fully may still allow 2-3 mm of undrained space at the very bottom. I (not by design I can assure you) may have solved this problem by...