I agree with the above, I think you want to be removing the windows from the roof, they leak enough already without adding more places. I am currently looking for a solid 110 roof to get rid of the alpine windows and sunroof from the station wagon!
I've got three Defenders and like J said, "why not". The Defender I'm doing it to has had everything upgraded from a galv chassis, to a full leather interior. A 300 TDi beaut, and the tropical windows are the final detail.
Well, just to thank all who replied, as enlarging the door pillar slots to allow the latch / slam plate to be closer to the door worked. I gradually ground the slots using edge grinding drills until the second click of the lock could be heard and...
Yes, I tried that the weekend and it still opens when locked, so the holes for the latch plate will be extended slightly to get the two clicks from the lock,
Thanks for that reply
Images aren't great, but I do not believe anything I've mentioned is causing it.
I got a steel rod and pushed the lock inward until it reached full lock click, then I measured from the rod to the outside of the door, then checked the latch...
Hi there, that sounds just like my problem. I've just taken off the door trim and taken a good look, but don't think my window glass conversion is at fault. Even so, I noted three things.
1. The latch that you push down to lock the door...
Thanks Tottot, I wasn't sure about the link rods and I may have made things worse because when I rebuilt the Defender I could only obtain door windows for the passenger door and the plastic connection blocks at the bottom of the window winder...
Hi, need your help with my Defender 90 because I've tried everything to stop my drivers door from opening to the anti burst position.
The door is in excellent condition and does not move on its hinges.
What I've noticed is that the TD5 door trim...