Recent content by kanecvr
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Ok I found the issue - @J_D was right. The blue wire that goes from the switch box to the motor was damaged. I spliced it and the window rolls up and down correctly now.
Thank you everyone for your help!
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Sorry, not a native engilsh speaker, not sure I understood what you mean. All widows work except for front right. All window motors get 12.6 except for front right that gets 10.5v. I haven't tested with the motor connected (no room to clip my multimeter on while the motor is connected) but if I...
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10.5V w/o motor, measuring straight from the connector, not plugged in. My wife's car has a switch box in the door - not independent switches like the non facelift models. There's also no "window ECU" as far as I know on this car.
Like I said above, this is a facelift and has all four window...
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Hi guys and gals. Hope you're having a great day!
I'm having issues with my wife's 2004 Freelander TD4 - specifically the front right window won't work. To keep it short, here's a list of what I've done so far:
- tested window regulator - looks great, brand new even
- tested window motor -...
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Update - swapped over the whole valve body - no change - still no 5th gear. It seems I have a mechanical issue like @Nodge68 suggested....
I made a few calls and spoke with a gearbox specialist that routinely does these jatco boxes. Told him what I did so far and got quoted 500 euro to fix the...
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Well the 2000 TD4 is in use but it's now a manual (complete powertrain swap) - it's original drivetrain (engine, gearbox and transfer case) are sitting on a pallet in my garage - the valve body picture from page 1 is from that gearbox. The box itself is still attached to the engine. Like I...
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A second hand box is.... 1000e. I'd rather have this one repaired. As it stands, I have two defective Jatco automatic transmissions, maybe a specialist would be interested in getting one of them off my hands and subtracting from the cost of repairing the other.... And to top it off, there are no...
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I don't have the box out. The pics I posted above are from when I did the automatic to manual swap on my 2000 non facelift TD4. Right now, I'm working on the car in my profile pic - a 2004 HSE TD4 and it's still in one piece.
I followed the solenoid resistance video posted on page 1 and got...
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I really hope you're wrong.
I'm at the garage right now and swapped the TCM. I installed the TCM from my NFL TD4 and it drove fine for the first 5 minutes, but after less than a km every gear change became very harsh, the same exact symptoms as on the car I got it off of..... Oh yeah and still...
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Let me clear that up - I have two faulty boxes - one off my 2000 non facelift TD4 (the ugly one in the pics above) witch I pulled the valve body off. This is the car that would slip in 4th, rev up to 4k and later throw E4 error. I swapped it for a manual drivetrain. The other faulty gearbox is...
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My 2000 non facelift TD4 had the exact issues you're describing. Would slip in 4th - it would rev up to 4000 rpm. If I feathered the throttle, it would eventually shift into 5th and would run fine. Maybe the drum has a big crack in it or the clutch packs are nearly gone - but the valve body in...
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I read about cracked reverse drums, but my car is a 2004 and they supposedly fixed the reverse drum issue for cars made 2002 and later right?
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Sweet thanks for this. It does raise some questions... If 4th works fine (solenoid 4) and 2nd works fine (solenoids 1 and 2) then 5th should engage as well right? Solenoids 1 and 4.... and i do feel it engage... Could the problem actually be solenoid 9 (high clutch solenoid)??? like @Kevm...
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I thought that solenoid engages the converter lock... I clearly need to find some documentation....
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Ok I'm done for today. Don't know if I'm going to be able to do any work tomorrow but I'll finish it this week and post pictures.
So far i managed to drain the fluid out of the other gearbox - it looked... not horrible, brown(ish)-clear, and there was no glitter or particulate matter in it...