Recent content by Bolsover
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Older wheels won't clear the front calipers on "newer" cars..they changed the discs to vented instead of solid ...
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I don't think you need to remove the bumper to remove the tray..
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Isn't it more to do with the weight rating of the wheel rather than the "toughness"?
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Ooops sorry
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-crankcase-breather-depression-limiter-valve-120503.html
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Have a read of this thread...post #6..
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The drawing looks more logical to me...why would you have alignment marks that are only in the right place if they are slightly out of line..the instructions on the photo say that the marks should be in-line with the centre of the pulley bolts...
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If you do a search on here I think you'll find that the fix is to file another notch in the bmw part...I'm sure someone will confirm this..
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The RAVE manual confirms NeedleNose' post..those 3 items aren't used on a UK petrol model..Fl6 is for the glow plugs..
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Drive is sent to both front and rear all the time..if a wheel looses traction then the traction control cuts in and applies the brake to that wheel allowing the other wheels to carry on rotating..no need for a locking diff in this situation..that's as I understand it anyway...all electrickery...
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I think the letter suffix's are for different colours...but at least it's a start :)
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Are these the ones?
MXC6432LUN
MXC6433LUN
MXC6434LUN
MXC6435LUN
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If it didn't do this before the gaiter change you should take it back to the garage and ask them to recheck their work..they may have disturbed something around the abs sensor etc..
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Could be worth checking the ABS connector on the wheel that the gaiter was changed.
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This thread might help a bit..
busters-photo-tour-landrover-repairs - Land Rover Zone
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I find it's a good idea to tke the fill plug out first ...then you know you can get some more oil in :)